ATX tranny tunning

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somedude_001

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I have a tweecer and have used it to firm up the 1 -> 2 WOT shift and while that made a HUGE difference I want to go farther and do the 2 ->3 shift and see if anything can be done with the NON WOT shift but i'm pretty new to this thing and trial and error takes a lot of gas although it is fun :dribble: .

I have been hearing rumors that someone has already made a really good program for the tweecer for the ATX trany functions is this true or is it just a rumor?
 

Axianator

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somedude_001 said:
I have been hearing rumors that someone has already made a really good program for the tweecer for the ATX trany functions is this true or is it just a rumor?
Could be. ;)

There are several different ways to modify tranny behavior and acheive shift firmness - not all of these methods are reliable or even safe, however. Out of curiosity, what functions and/or tables are you modifying to achieve your newfound firmness?

Any possibility of myself or the group seeing your calibration file?
 

NiNeTy Fo SHO

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hammer5312 said:
What is a "TwEECer"?

It is a chip that you can program yourself to make your car run better. You can change (it seems like) almost anything with it. From secondaries opening, how hard your shifts are, your a/f ratio. etc.

For a little extra, you get data logging. So you go drive around and then look at the data that tells you how far off your a/f ratio is, etc.

I dont have one, just what I have read about it. :thumb:

and its a "TwEECer" because it tweecies (changes) your EEC.





Yea, I made up that word....whats your point? :p
 

somedude_001

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I don't have the program infront of me but i'm sure I could get it posted. and off hand I don't rember exactly what function it was.

Axianator said:
Could be. ;)

There are several different ways to modify tranny behavior and acheive shift firmness - not all of these methods are reliable or even safe, however. Out of curiosity, what functions and/or tables are you modifying to achieve your newfound firmness?

Any possibility of myself or the group seeing your calibration file?
 

Axianator

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somedude_001 said:
I don't have the program infront of me but i'm sure I could get it posted. and off hand I don't rember exactly what function it was.
Post that sucker up and let me see what I can do for you. :thumb:
 

somedude_001

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I will have it posted tomorrow but for now I can try and describe the table I adjusted, the stock table started out maxed (I forget the value) then quickly drops down and then comes back up to 7 ( I think) well I took out that little drop before it comes back up (it almost looks like a drip loop on a cable) and made the lower side 22 (instead of 7) on position 1 and 44 on position 2, position 3 and 4 seem to mirror position 1 and 2 I don't have the data loggine one so maby that is why the positions are wierd but at any rate at 22 the 1 -> 2 shift is nice and firm 80% of the time (my tranny is shot again) and at 44 the tranny has a real fast shudder but sems to shift quicker but not harder if that makes sence, but because shuddering is never good I leave it on position 1 (by position 1 I mean the first adjustable position not the off position)

that was the only table I modified although if there is a way to modify the non WOT shift I am all ears because the non WOT shift is garbage and this leads to me flooring it constantly so I don't have to wait 3 sec for it to shift (it shifts int second clamps down then releases and then clamps down again kind of like a screw you shift :))
 

somedude_001

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thanks for posting this fuzzyfish (my brother) we were tunning (if you can call it that) at his house and did all the testing in front of his house so I guess a thinks goes out to his neighbors for not calling the cops on me for doing 25-47mph runs in the missle of the night for 2 hours :D

anyway thats the current program i'm using right now maby you can take a lok at it for me :thumb:
 

Axianator

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somedude_001 said:
I will have it posted tomorrow but for now I can try and describe the table I adjusted, the stock table started out maxed (I forget the value) then quickly drops down and then comes back up to 7 ( I think) well I took out that little drop before it comes back up (it almost looks like a drip loop on a cable) and made the lower side 22 (instead of 7) on position 1 and 44 on position 2, position 3 and 4 seem to mirror position 1 and 2 I don't have the data loggine one so maby that is why the positions are wierd but at any rate at 22 the 1 -> 2 shift is nice and firm 80% of the time (my tranny is shot again) and at 44 the tranny has a real fast shudder but sems to shift quicker but not harder if that makes sence, but because shuddering is never good I leave it on position 1 (by position 1 I mean the first adjustable position not the off position)
The reason why some of the values in the 'LPM Tranny Function' functions read so high is due to (yet another) bug with the latest public release of the CalEdit software. These values are actually stored as a signed byte in the factory code (for you techie dweebs out there) and, when displayed correctly, should read as a negative number when a value greater than 128 is entered (IOW, 255 would read as -1, 254 would read -2, 250 would read -6, etc). The good news is that the latest beta version of the software (which can be found at the links listed below) fixes these and other display-related problems.

somedude_001 said:
It's called LPM Tranny Function 1, 2, and 3

1 controlling the 1-2 shift, it made a difference and I believe it controls valve position, but I lack an ATX car to test it on constantly.
The 'LPM Tranny Function' functions are for adding or removing TV line pressure via the EPC solenoid during the respective upshift event. The EEC takes the values stored in these functions when it is calculating line pressure for the appropriate shifting scenario (such as an automatic or manual upshift or downshift) and combines them with the values that it grabs from other tables (such as the Tranny Torque Table) to arrive at the final commanded line pressure figure(s).

When using an older version of the software, these functions should be referred to in the following manner (as noted above, these functions have been appropriately re-labelled and their associated problems fixed with the latest beta release of the software):

LPM Tranny Function 1 - TV Pressure 1-2
LPM Tranny Function 2 - TV Pressure 2-3
LPM Tranny Function 3 - TV Pressure 3-4

There also exists TV adder functions for the appropriate downshifting event (2-1, 3-2, 4-3) which will be included in the next SHO-specific release of the TwEECer software. In the meantime, you can download the latest D4U1 and X2J software updates here:

http://www.shonutperformance.com/X2J.DAT
http://www.shonutperformance.com/D4U1.DAT

Upon reviewing your calibration file, I have a couple of Q's for you:

- I noticed you had a value of 2500rpms plugged into your Tranny Rev Limiter scalars (which, although they are not labelled as such, are actually the rev limiter scalars for reverse and neutral). I assume this was intentional?

- does your tranny have a TransGo shift kit or any other type of valve body modification? If it does, then we may have to play with (read: lower) the values in the TV adder functions and/or Tranny Torque table to achieve a safer level of shift firmness for your car.

I have modified several portions of your calibration file and have saved the changes to the following file:

http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.com/axianator/lpm_func090505.ccf

Give it a try and let me know how it works out. :thumb:
 

somedude_001

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- I noticed you had a value of 2500rpms plugged into your Tranny Rev Limiter scalars (which, although they are not labelled as such, are actually the rev limiter scalars for reverse and neutral). I assume this was intentional?

yes that was intentional, it was to prevent me from being a *** hat in public and it works quite well + it was the first modification we made to see if the tweecer was working which it wasn't for a long time but I finaly fixed it.

- does your tranny have a TransGo shift kit or any other type of valve body modification? If it does, then we may have to play with (read: lower) the values in the TV adder functions and/or Tranny Torque table to achieve a safer level of shift firmness for your car.

no my tranny is completely stock, and i'll try that file tomorrow.

are all 4 positions the same program now or should I be looking to see which position works best? thanks a bunch!
 

Axianator

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somedude_001 said:
are all 4 positions the same program now or should I be looking to see which position works best? thanks a bunch!
Since the TwEECer will only upload to one position at a time (whichever one you have it switched to), you would have to toggle to each position and upload the file to each slot seperately for all the positions to have a program in memory. TwEECer calibration files (.ccf's) are only good for one position anyways, so just stick that program into one of your slots and you should be good to go. :thumb:
 

somedude_001

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just a update on the err how it went. SHO BOOM!

not that I didn't know it was comming but the tranny is done for now.

I recieved a new tweecer file from a guy on shoforum and was testing it out and I found his file actually shifted softer than my previous ones and I guess I got a little carried away because I started smelling burning brakes from the multiple 25-50mph pulls I probably made about 25 in a row without leaving time for the tranny to cool (or the brakes) on his settings it had a near stock shift but at 7200rpm's or so and was overall a very slow shift (probably due to the tranny being shot) and then I flipped the switch back to my settings (position 1,3,4 his was on position 2) I floored it from 25mph and the tach went upto about 6K and the quickly and smoothly clamped down breaking the tires loose not a bang but it did this very smoothly... about 5 times on all 3 of my settings and then on his a very slow shift.

ok now fast worward to 3 hours later at the local 1/8 mile drag strip.

first run. no burnout, stage, foot brake it to 2900rpm release the brake and nice solid traction 2.33 60' the 1-2 shift comes and was firm (on my settings) clamps down in second gear and then releases tach goes up to 6500 and then bang back into gear not violently but a pretty good jolt (has been doing that for 6months) basicly the same thing on the second pass, now for the 3rd pass it gets interesting I go around the burnout box as usual line up wiating for the car infront of me to go and when he i gone I let the car roll to about 3-5mph and I floor it to make sure there is no water on the tires and like the last 2 runs no wheel spin so i'm good to go right? so the car is rolling upto the staging lights slowly I throw her in neutral and rev to about 3K to build up good vaccume so the bakes will hold the car back then I hit the brakes because i'm properly staged and as the rpms are still comming down the ****** starts the tree the rpms are probably at about 1100 so I pop it into gear and begin to foot brake it and the rpm's go upto 7K and the revlimiter is owning me I closed my eyes fearing a huge bang thinking I shifted in to fast and noting came... so i'm like WTF I must have put it into nutral by accdent (by now the other guy has started hus journey down the track) so i look down and it is in drive so I try second and first and then reverse and neutral and i got nothing. they pushed my car off the track and i called up my friend and we towed my car home with a audi A4.

he car acts like it is in neutral in every gear, there is no noise at all no popping knocking, grinding, clanking, no speedo reading when the car is stopped, nothing I don't get it. the tranny is just like "no i'm done i'm going to sleep no bye" even after cooling down I still got nothing.

though without a doubt I killed the tranny but it is just odd for it to go like this I mean usually they slip or make noise or constandly slam into gear but its just like "screw you :corn: "

NOTE THIS FILE IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORUM CAUSED THE FAILURE OF MY TRANNY

I was looking over the file and from the changes you made it seemed like it would have a faster shift than the previous settings but for some reason it didn't it actually shifted near stock except the rpms seemed to be comming up past 7K :confused: , i'm sure your program was good but my tranny was pretty well shot to begin with so maby thats why I didn't get the desired results, so I guess i'll be swapping in my spare tranny and giving FPS a call tomorrow. do you think they offer financing? well probably not maby i'll go to the bank first.

thanks for listening :corn:

edit: and I got a ticket for expired inspection today! and that really ****** me off because I probably have one of the safest and well maintained cars in my area (at least by my work) /rant
 

Axianator

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I'm sorry to hear that your tranny took a dump, man. If it's any consolation, the line pressure changes that I made to your calibration file are little different than what Ted makes to his "standard" ATX LPM program (IOW, you would not have been running any more line pressure with my program than you would have with one of Ted's "standard" ATX programs).

I am curious, though - you said that you had received a new calibration from someone else on the forum and were testing it out before you went to the track. Did you end up running this other person's calibration file while you were at the track or did you end up running the file that I sent you? If it was the former, then might you be able to shoot me a copy of this person's calibration file?

As always, please let me know if there's anything more I can do to help. :thumb:
 

somedude_001

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that was your calabration file that I was refering to and it didn't seem as agressive as my previous settings for some reason.
 

DavidT

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sorry about your misfortune... but I have to ask... what did you run (time and trap) in the 1/8th?
 

somedude_001

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the car wasn't running worth a crap because of the tranny neutraling after the 1-2 shift (car can shift really firm but about 2 seconds after the shift it neutrals for about a second and then gets back into gear)

that said 10.32 and 10.58 and then 00.00 I have run as fast as 10.15 with 2.26 60''s and that is still with the stanny neutraling after the shift... the firmer shifts make a HUGE difference in times.
 

somedude_001

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well as some of you may know I blew up my tranny in that last post I made, and now that I finally got another tranny put in I think i'm ready to have another go at this tunning thing :naughty:

here is a video of the initial testing of the tranny (first link) and this a madin voyage and then some testing 300 miles after the madin voyage even though it looks like the video was taken the same day.

first fire (hey it was a big deal to me :) )
http://sonikempire.com/gallery/albums/vids/somedudestrannyswap.wmv

FYI this was a used tranny and I installed a transgo in it and the shifting is slightly improved but it wasn't a huge difference.
http://sonikempire.com/gallery/albums/vids/Trannytuningsession1.wmv

it is hard to tell in the video but Axianator's shift profile is a bit slower than the one I made and on top of that the shift point was moved up a bit in first gear which actually makes the car slower because it is out of its powerband, so I would say move the shift point back to stock in first and work on making that thing shift a lot harder.
 

somedude_001

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I was playing with the tweecer and actually had it shifting pretty good and Axianator offered a program and i'm just suplying feedback, on paper his should be better than my program but for some reason in the car its not? I would like to work with him if he wants to see what we can pull out of this thing. at times it seems as though it is on the verge of chirping the 1-2 shift on my program, one thing I noticed about the 2 programs are mine shifts hard meaning I get a nice kick in the pants when it shifts but his doesn't give that kick in the pants but it still shifts fast. why is that.

edit: one last thing that I have been wondering about is creating a dyno gear, is it possible to use one of the 4 positions to force the tranny into 3rd gear with the TC locked so I can make pulls from 2500rpm all the way up without it downshifting or locking the TC half way through the pull.
 

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