At 92K what suspension items would you do?

khiser0001 · Jan 11, 2004

I am not looking to lower the car etc. The car is not sagging (yet) in the rear either.

What is usually the best "Bang for the buck" items to replace to return the ride as close to original? What order would you do them in? (I have a limited budget)

After reading the many posts this is what I am thinking:

1. Struts/shocks - most likely something like the KYB GR2's (Again no plans to lower this car)

2. New strut mounts front and rear

3. New sway bar bushings

4. New SFB's. I am thinking about the Police or the gen III bushings.

Anything that I am missing? What about tie rod ends etc?

Thanks in advance,
Kevin

93redATX · Jan 11, 2004

If you are looking for stock performance and ride, go with this setup:

Moog cargo coils/KYB GR2's or Monroe Sensa-Tracs

New strut mounts front & rear (get them soon, since they've been discontinued recently and will probably be hard to find shortly). Also get front strut bearings.

New bushings everywhere. The stock rubber bushings deteriorate fairly quickly. Even if you replace them with stock rubber again, you will notice a difference. I would recommend getting Energy Suspension bushings though, as these will last much longer than stock bushings.

Subframe Bushings-I would recommend aluminum over anything due to not having to replace them ever again. However, if you go with stock replacements, get Gen III bushings, since they are the best stock bushings Ford produced for the car.

Tie Rod ends-easy fix, since you'd be in there anyway. I'd say go ahead and get them. They are a quick and easy replacement, and any aftermarket will have grease fittings, which stock ends do not have.
Just my $.02

[ January 11, 2004, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: 93redATX ]

khiser0001 · Jan 11, 2004

Thanks for the info. If my springs are not sagging do I need to ge the new springs? (I ask because I hear they raise the car considerably. (based on posts here on the forum.)

Thanks again,
Kevin

93redATX · Jan 11, 2004

You could get by just getting new struts, but if you're in there, why wait? Your springs will end up saggy eventually. Your call shrug IIRC, the only time I've heard of or seen the car actually raised slightly by the springs and struts is when the *** end of the car is already sagging. How much space do you have between the tops of your rear tires and the fender lip?

The other reason I'd say to change the springs right away while you are in there is because it makes things 10x easier. You can buy new springs, struts, and mounts, and assemble the whole unit while it's out of the car, and then when you pull out the old unit all you have to do is pop the new one in.

A little caution, though...with an Ohio car you'll most likely have all kinds of "fun" with the rust on the suspension parts such as end links (these are a major PITA if rusty). You may want to get new end links prior to replacing the suspension just as a precaution. With the rears especially, if they are rusty they will break when you try to take the nut off of the shaft.

khiser0001 · Jan 11, 2004

Thanks. I will start ordering parts and will be doing the work when it warms up again this spring.

I want to have all the parts in advance so I will make a point to order the endlinks.

93redATX · Jan 11, 2004

No prob. If you've got any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Last week I did struts/springs on a '92 and had all kinds of problems, and nearly everything that can go wrong did

fricker66 · Jan 11, 2004

The only thing I'd add is that you can also get MOOG TPR bushings at a good price through Rockauto.com There's still opinions on TPR vs. polyurethane. wink Over the past year, I've been replacing most of the factory rubber bushings (15 year old) and have noticed a big improvement in driving. Just be sure to shop around for the best prices since you indicated you aren't looking to do the work till it warms up again. And since you have plenty of time before turning the wrench, start spraying down the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster. Anything you can do to lessen the rust/corrosion problems, the better!

Any questions be sure to let us know!

khiser0001 · Jan 13, 2004

Fricker66,

Thanks.

So far what I am going to order. (The first of many)

1. Struts / Shocks:

Fronts (P/N 235054) cost: $45.00 each
Rears (P/N 235011) cost: $45.00 each.

2. Strut Mounts: What is better the standard Ford Mounts or the KYB's?

Front Ford Mount: F1DZ-18183-AA $ 28.99 ea
Rear Ford Mount: F3DZ-18192-B Police rear mount upper $ 34.99 ea.

OR
Front KYB Mount: SM5038 $45.00 each
Rear KYB Mount: SM5055 $40.00 each

3. The Moog Springs:

Front CC858
Rear CC859

4. Either the Gen III SFB's or the AL SFB's from Netviper? I am not sure as I have an ATX so it won't help shifting and it seems odd that you can completely remove the tolerance and not have it place stress somewhere else.

What do you think so far?

[ January 13, 2004, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: khiser0001 ]

MilTownSHO · Jan 13, 2004

93redATX:
No prob. If you've got any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Last week I did struts/springs on a '92 and had all kinds of problems, and nearly everything that can go wrong did

But it was worth it, in the end

hail

Be VERY careful removing the rear pinch bolts the connect the strut to the spindle, they like to snap... madflame

[ January 13, 2004, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: MilTownSHO ]

93redATX · Jan 13, 2004

khiser0001:
Fricker66,

Thanks.

So far what I am going to order. (The first of many)

1. Struts / Shocks:

Fronts (P/N 235054) cost: $45.00 each

Rears (P/N 235011) cost: $45.00 each.


2. Strut Mounts: What is better the standard Ford Mounts or the KYB's?

Front Ford Mount: F1DZ-18183-AA $ 28.99 ea

Rear Ford Mount: F3DZ-18192-B Police rear mount upper $ 34.99 ea.

OR

Front KYB Mount: SM5038 $45.00 each

Rear KYB Mount: SM5055 $40.00 each


3. The Moog Springs:

Front CC858

Rear CC859



4. Either the Gen III SFB's or the AL SFB's from Netviper? I am not sure as I have an ATX so it won't help shifting and it seems odd that you can completely remove the tolerance and not have it place stress somewhere else.

What do you think so far?

List looks good.

I'm not too sure about the mounts, as I've never used the KYB mounts myself. Hopefully somebody who has used them can comment on quality and durability (I don't think this would be a problem, though) shrug

91taurisho · Jan 13, 2004

khiser0001:
4. Either the Gen III SFB's or the AL SFB's from Netviper? I am not sure as I have an ATX so it won't help shifting and it seems odd that you can completely remove the tolerance and not have it place stress somewhere else.

What do you think so far?

Get the Al SFB's!!! For 2 reasons:
1) improved turn in response such that wheels respond more quickly to steering wheel feedback. Sometime take a look at how much your subframe moves when turning the wheels from side to side. Solid sub-frame bushings remove this flex.

2) Suspension geometry remains more consistent - if the sub-frame is moving around, this changes caster and camber angles.

Also, they do move stress other places. They will make your more worn out parts more noticed and the close to worn out parts wear out... You will probably need to replace your tie rod ends and maybe your sway bar endlinks soon after replacing the SFB's(with AL). The best bet would be to do that now and get it over with!

At 92K what suspension items would you do?

khiser0001

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93redATX

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khiser0001

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fricker66

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khiser0001

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