Aight, you electrical nerds, you!!!

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SuperHO

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for some reason, the parking light wire on my headlight wiring harness keeps heating up to the melting point and shorting out (or seperating where I spliced in a new harness 3 years ago). why is this? I've heard whisperings of a TSB about a headlight switch and pigtail...could this be the cure to what ails me? I'm kinda tired of having to re-splice every month or so, and I'm kinda worried about having my car go down in flames, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!!! :thumb:
 

SuperHO

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Ishodu said:
Just what did you tie in and how do you have it spliced?

didn't tie anything in except recently did the fish-tank mod...those're tied into the outer parking/signal lights. the only thing I did was chop the old pig-tail off and replace it with a boneyard one that came with the headlight switch I bought. I've got it spliced with them lil blue crimp-on connectors....tis the only thing I use.

Saleen SHO said:
something is putting too much load on that wire.... gotta figure that out first...

the only thing I have wired to the parking lights is the fish tanks and the fog lights (the guy who had the car before me butchered the fog-light mod and I haven't re-done it yet). But the headlight switch and wiring was cooking before I did all that.
 

SuperHO

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No trailer hitch.....the only thing wired in is the fog lights and the fish tanks. That wouldn't drop the load down enough to melt 14 guage wire, would it?
 

SHOZ123

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Well what is the load in amps? A bad connection will do the same thing as excessive load. What ever it is there is too big of a load for the weakest part of the circuit.
 

SuperHO

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I have no clue what the load is....the only thing I know about electronics is wiring diagrams and how to hook shxt up. I've checked all the connections, and everything's solid....except where the wire heats up behind the headlight switch and makes the crimp-on connector melt and fall off.
 

SHOZ123

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Did you use a new switch?

Article No.
97-15-7 HEADLAMPS - HEADLAMP SWITCH INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 6/26/95
HEADLAMPS - HEADLAMPS OPERATE INTERMITTENTLY - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 6/26/95

Publication Date: JULY 21, 1997

FORD: 1993-95 TAURUS
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1993-95 SABLE


ISSUE:
The headlamp switch may become inoperative or the headlamps may operate intermittently on some vehicles. This may be caused by the headlamp switch or connector overheating and becoming inoperative.

ACTION:
Replace the headlamp switch and the connector. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Intermittent Headlamps or Headlamp Flicker:
For Taurus/Sable vehicles with intermittent headlamps or headlamps that flicker, replace the switch and connector using the Service Kit F7DZ-11654-AB (Non-Autolamp vehicles) or F7DB-11654-BA (Autolamp vehicles).

Inoperative Headlamp Switch:
For Taurus/Sable vehicles with an inoperative headlamp switch, replace the switch and connector using the correct Service Kit at the time of replacement. Replace both the switch and the connector at the time of switch replacement. Refer to the Instruction Sheet, included in the kit, for the installation procedure.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F7DZ-11654-AB Headlamp Kit (Non-Autolamp Vehicles)
F7DZ-11654-BA Headlamp Kit (Autolamp Vehicles)



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
971507A Replace Headlamp Switch And Connector 1.2 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
11691 01

OASIS CODES:
201000, 201100, 201200, 203200
 

SuperHO

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Well I guess THAT answers my question :doh: Any idea how much this damn thing costs?
 

MelectroK

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If the wire is melting just at the end buy the connection then the connection is weak and corrodid. If it is the switch, the switch itself will get hot. My suggestion is clean the spade on the back of the switch and replace the connection on the wire.
 

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