Accelerate Problems

[iKevin]

Ok so my car sometimes spudders and doesnt accelerate right. Took it to the shop, it had a intake gasket replaced, and just today the fuel filter replaced it didnt fix the problem.

It when this happens it between 1300-4000 rpm, then after about 4000 rpm it accelerates normally. I have to give it about half way gas to make it stop spuddering.

Any ideas, oh the vacuum lines were checked and are OK.

 

[rbruso]

Did it happen suddenly or is it something that has progressively gotten worse?

Pull the codes and see if the ECU gives you a hint.

Check all six spark plug wells to see if one of your plugs is soaking in an oil bath. The well seals harden up over time and can leak oil into the well. If that's the case you're going to need to replace your wires and probably the plugs, as you'll have a nice carbon trail on one or the other.

If it was sudden, is it possible you either went through a big puddle or washed the motor recently? If water gets in the wells it can cause a misfire too.

There are more exotic things that could cause your problems, but check the relatively simple stuff first.

 

[iKevin]

Nope its been like this for about a month now, it doesnt happen all the time, sometimes it runs fine sometimes it doesnt. Before I took it to the shop it was really bad, like I said the shop put in some "parts and sensors" in from another SHO tio fix the idle problem I had ( I ended up fixing it myself by adjusting the idle speed and an idle reset). I'm pretty sure the shop tried to pull some codes but didnt get anything.

 

[rbruso]

You're not getting any knocking/rattling sounds from the crank pulley area, are you?

 

[iKevin]

Nope.

 

[iKevin]

Took the car out today, turned onto a street, did a slow acclerate, car didnt accelerate at all from 1500-2900, once I hit 3000 it finally kicked in.

 

[iKevin]

http://youtu.be/ccCJXS0S6o4 here is a vid of the car idling, that loud noise it just the belt right?
OH and I took the car out agian today for about 3 miles, about 1 mile through the check engine light came on for a bout a mile then went away...

 

[Vnuk1]

Where's your 710 Cap?

 

[rbruso]

That mechanical thrashing sound? That's very similar to the rattle I was asking about.

Loosen your upper timing cover and peek inside. See if you have a fine dusting of rust powder on everything. Hopefully not, but if you do you might be eating the key on your lower timing pulley.

 

[rubydist]

if the check engine light came on, then there are codes stored - pull them and report what they are.

 

[iKevin]

the car doesnt sound that bad that vid is really bad. I will go to ford and get the codes.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

You can get the codes using a paperclip: SHO Times

 

[iKevin]

You can get the codes using a paperclip: SHO Times

Ok I seem to have connected it right after reading the aritcal about 5 times LOL. Sorry guys I'm very new to this, and I have no idea have to count the flashes since they seem to flash a different speeds. So I took a video hoping you guys could decode it for me, I know I'm asking alot but all the help is appropriated!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pghzRYCVAjg

Oh I know in the video it kinda sounds like the engine might be running but its not.

 

[shotime1994]

Unplug your mass air flow sensor then drive the car and see what happens.

 

[iKevin]

OK I did that, after that it idles like shit it will even stall. But SO Far it drove fine. The real test will be when I drive it home after work, since for some wierd reason the car always acts up on my way home from work I dont know why.

 

[shotime1994]

Car shouldn't stall with the maf unplugged. Did the sputter go away with it unplugged?

 

[TwistedMunky]

Iab on the intake?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Ok I seem to have connected it right after reading the aritcal about 5 times LOL. Sorry guys I'm very new to this, and I have no idea have to count the flashes since they seem to flash a different speeds. So I took a video hoping you guys could decode it for me, I know I'm asking alot but all the help is appropriated!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pghzRYCVAjg

Oh I know in the video it kinda sounds like the engine might be running but its not.

The flashing at different speeds indicates new numbers.

The first set of codes is 111 so you are fine there.

For the 2nd set you get:
176- O2 Sensor Lean
542- Junk Code
543- Junk Code

Check the codes again and count them. It repeats the codes so you can make sure you got them.

For 176 it comes out as 1 flash, pause then 7 quick flashes, pause then 6 quick flashes.

 

[rubydist]

176 is lean on the front bank (left bank)

542 and 543 often result from stalling the engine, and almost always can be ignored.

the 176 could be due to a bad o2 sensor, could be a vacuum leak, or could be a bad injector. based on your symptoms, I suspect a vacuum leak or bad injectors.

 

[iKevin]

OK I unplugged the MAF right before I left work to drive .5 miles home. This is when the car always acts up, the car sat for a 5 hour shift. Started it up, idled like shit, then went out o the parking lot had to stop to turn left onto a street, the car stalled. Started it back up continued my drive came to a light and I had to play with the gas so it wouldnt stall, but it seemed to accelerate fine.

The guy at the shop said he did a vacuum leak test and found that it had a bad intake gasket, he fixed that. So I'm guessing it has a bad injector, how did I figure out which one and it there a sure way test to see if its a injector?