96 Brake Upgrade

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Markus

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Just got all the parts for the '96 brake upgrade for my 95 SHO. I purchased all OEM parts. The brake disc has a coating on it and I need to know if I have to remove the coating before I install the disks.

I ask because the coating is similar to the coating that comes on the OEM discs for my 97 XJ6 and Jaguar specifically says to NOT remove the coating. The one time I did remove the coating on the XJ6 discs the discs failed (corroded badly) after 9 months.
 

Ishodu

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Is it like a wax or a oil? Either way if its not saying to leave it on I would be using brake cleaner on it to remove it.
 

Rockledge

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I ask because the coating is similar to the coating that comes on the OEM discs for my 97 XJ6 and Jaguar specifically says to NOT remove the coating. The one time I did remove the coating on the XJ6 discs the discs failed (corroded badly) after 9 months.
That's interesting. I can't recall ever hearing something like that before. I have to think that maybe the coating somehow gets mixed or joined with the materials in the disk or pad, probably within the first few braking sessions. I can't see how it would last by itself as a protectorant beyond that.

In any case, it's highly doubtful that your new Taurus OEM disks would have an unconventional coating on them such as the Jag disks, and so I would clean them thoroughly, as is standard practice.
 

Markus

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Ishodu said:
Is it like a wax or a oil? Either way if its not saying to leave it on I would be using brake cleaner on it to remove it.


It's not waxy or oily. It seems like a thin coat of bronze coloured paint. The paint is also on inner and outer surfaces of the "hat" area (the area that contains the holes for the wheel studs).

In the case of my Jag the coating was blue and was harder than **** to get off. Normal brake cleaner wouldn't remove it. I had to use steel wool.
 

Ishodu

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The rotors for the jag maybe they were zinc washed. That keeps them from rusting. As for your new SHO rotors just see if it comes off with brake cleaner. No need to work harder than that at it. Leave it on the non friction surface if it appears to be some sort of paint.
 

Markus

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Rockledge said:
That's interesting. I can't recall ever hearing something like that before. I have to think that maybe the coating somehow gets mixed or joined with the materials in the disk or pad, probably within the first few braking sessions. I can't see how it would last by itself as a protectorant beyond that.

In any case, it's highly doubtful that your new Taurus OEM disks would have an unconventional coating on them such as the Jag disks, and so I would clean them thoroughly, as is standard practice.


I probably will try to remove the coating but I'll talk to the mechanics at the dealer first.

Regarding the Jag - almost everything on the car is unconventional. Replacing the rear shocks requires Jaguar specific tools. When doing a wheel alignment the suspension needs to be pre-loaded via pull down straps between the body and the alignment machine. A new windshield is over $1800 Cdn - it has very fine vertical wires embedded in it that work like a normal rear window defroster. It has coil on plug ignition at $300 Cdn per coil. I replaced all 6 a year ago. The climate control system (all Nippondenso components) has two dedicated water pumps (this is in addition to the regular engine water pump) and it's self-diagnsotics can generate over 100 error codes. I give the refridgerant system kudos for being leak free for 8.5 years and still blowing as cold as when it was new. The power steering pump is driven directly from the engine. If the throttle position sensor is replaced it has be to calibrated/adjusted by a dealer. The headlights use regular 9005/9006 bulbs and are as good as any HID system I've ever seen. Upgrading the bulbs to the 9011/9012 PIR (passive infra-red) gives light that no legal HID system can match.
 

Markus

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Ishodu said:
The rotors for the jag maybe they were zinc washed. That keeps them from rusting. As for your new SHO rotors just see if it comes off with brake cleaner. No need to work harder than that at it. Leave it on the non friction surface if it appears to be some sort of paint.


Hmmmm. I just took another look at the discs and the areas that do not have the bronze coating (the ventilated edge of the disc and a small area between the friction area and the hat) do not have a shine - they are quite dull and look to be zinc plated. The bronze coating is on top this. When I say there is no shine I am comparing the 96 disc to the OEM 95 disc that is quite shiny when removed from its protective paper wrapping. Now I'm really confused. Could there be two protective coatings on the new discs? The discs are stamped with not only the Ford logo and part number but also with a "TRW" logo.
 

Markus

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Here are the pics:



Gug39400.jpg


Nm839574.jpg
 

TankII

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Bronze color is usually Cosmoline. If it doesn't come off with Brake Cleaner, don't worry about it.

TankII
 

shojuan

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When you have a side apart and are ready to put on the new rotor, slip on a pair of nitrile gloves, have a supply of clean blue shop paper towels handy, spray a blue towel with brake cleaner and wipe on the pad contact surfaces. Might want to start with the back so you can see how well the nice gray coating they applied to the hats, edges, and vents will deal with the brake cleaner. You don't want to remove the gray stuff, it keeps the brakes pretty. If the protective stuff they applied to the shiny friction surfaces to prevent rust on the shelves is over the gray stuff, I wouldn't worry about it unless it's some nasty greasy stuff that will attract dirt. If it's cosmoline, I'd prefer it not to be on there, but it can be tough stuff to remove and you might damage the nice gray coat trying to get it off.

Really, just use your good judgement, just be sure to wipe down the friction surfaces with brake cleaner until the wetted towels come up clean. Then put it all back together, take care to keep the brake fluid off or clean things off again when it's all done (this is why it would be good to know how well the gray coat that you want to keep deals with brake cleaner because it's sometimes easier to just spray the rotors and let them drip dry when they're installed....you want to avoid that if it'll end up making things ugly and you don't want to be disolving more crap that drips onto the rotors, leading to more cleanup, and possibly ugly rotors).

Some strategic use of aluminum foil can keep the brake fluid and gunk off the rotors while you patch everything up. Just don't let parts of a foil sheet that might touch dirt and grime touch the rotor friction surface or the pads.

Again, just common sense, your good judgement, and some **** retentive/obsessive compulsiveness towards keeping the friction surfaces clean. Pretend you have a hand washing OCD and the rotors and pads are your hands and everything else is covered in germs. :biggrin:
 

Todd TCE

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Looks like some zinc plating. If brake cleaner or accetone doesn't take it off the PAD SURFACE then leave it alone.
 

SableSal

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Use some water to clean off any oils that may contaminate the pads. Zinc will come right off when the pads hit it. So no worries.



Sal
 

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