'94 SHO Spontaneous Stall Troubleshoot - Help?

[OrwellianChild]

Hey folks... I was driving at freeway speed when my CEL lit and then the engine stalled without so much as a whimper... Pulled onto the shoulder and the car would crank but not start. I sat for a minute or two and tried again - car started up fine and ran well the rest of the way to my destination. I don't like spontaneous engine failures, so I'm trying to fix this thing up before it happens again, and I'd like some opinions...

I'm driving a 1994 SHO ATX (3.2L) with 120k... I pulled codes with engine off, key on and this is what I pulled up (with a warm car):

111 111 1 172 211 212 215 216 217 659

This translates to (near as I can tell, using the SHOTimes chart):
111 111 = System Pass
1 = Separator
172 = System Lean
211 = PIP circuit fault.
212 = IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded.
215 = Coil 1 primary circuit failure.
216 = Coil 2 primary circuit failure.
217 = Coil 3 primary circuit failure.
659 = No clue what this means... It's not listed on the chart.

I'm speculating that it's either an ignition problem or fuel pump issue (that cleared itself when I stopped the car). Can I get some advise on what to check and how to pinpoint the problem. I'd rather not throw parts at the car unless they're the right ones...

Thanks for the help!
Andrew

 

[Black '93]

Done a tune up lately? fuel filter? did you buy some bad gas? were you riding a deisel trucks ass sucking in his fumes?(just kidding)

 

[Black '93]

clear all of your long term codes out of the memory then drive it for a while ,then check it again to see what codes you get. Who knows; sometimes(but rarely) motors just die when nothing is wrong with them. If it started back up and doesn't die again than who cares, but I would be curious too.

 

[Jaz2099]

Since it has 120k on it and you don't like "spontaneous engine failures" i'd recommend doing at least a front 60k. http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm The stalling is probably the 172 code (O2 sensors)

 

[sho_me92]

my dads 94 atx used to do that ...ckeck your MAF

 

[qiksho]

From my experience the only code I see that would show the symptoms you describe is the 211. That is a good indicator of a crank shaft position sensor going south. Many times they manifest failing like you describe. They will fail and shortly after the car will restart, only to die on you when you need the car to work.

Many times they fail because the waterpump leaks onto them. When this happens 9 times out of 10 the coolant is burned off the exhaust and you will never see a puddle. I would definately not drive this car long distance or rely on it for more than intown until you can verify what it is.

My money is on the crank shaft position sensor. If you are going to go that far into the engine I would recommend doing minimum the lower 60k.

 

[ohfosho]

yes these are the warning signs that you have been slacking, (or just telling you, if you havent owned the car long) on your engine maintenance.

you front 60K is due from the sounds of it. the codes that you have are for sure pointing to the CPS (crank sensor, code 211, and sometimes 212). some of the codes might be point out the coil pack too, but get the others done first, and then see...the part is right on top, so easy to do. your car will begin to stall a lot more often, and soon enough, you wont be able to restart at all. (just went through this last summer...so talking from experience)

you should replace a bunch of other things while the crank sensor is being done. as mentioned above, CPS failure is usually caused by a leaking waterpump (right above the sensor), so the outer half of the water pump should be swaped for a new unit and a new gasket. i also had the lower rad hose, and a rad flush done at this time. since you have the crank pulley off, check and/or raplace the crank seal. you should also pull the timing covers and check and/or replace the cam seals (3). do the timing belt. and up top the CID sensor will be the next to cause you problems.


fun eh? funny how the engine desperetly relies on it's sensors eh?

 

[windsormw]

from my experince

what ur descibing is the fuel pump , does it sound any different when the ignition is on ? fuel pump will prime when ignition is on ( before the motor turns over ) , mine sounded bad and it failed on the side of highway just like yours .

CPS could also be te problem ( I did fuel pump with my 60K ) but more times than not , etheir the the sensor works or it doesn't . A damaged wire from the CPS could produce those kinda symptoms .

I got dimensions and cut hole in my floor to do the fuel pump , very easy by the way