1994 SHO Knock????

[Mr.SHO]

I recently purchased a 1994 SHO, I got a great steal on it but it has a knock on the drives side on the top end, from the sound it sounds like it is coming in the area closest to the air filter. Any possible ideas on what this issue may be? When the vehicle is started the knock is quiet but you can tell its there, then when you rev it up it gets louder? As i asked, any ideas or suggestions to fix this issue?


:thankyou:

 

[projectSHO89]

Either camshaft chain tensioners or (hope not!) spun rod bearing.

 

[glxrustang]

Same thing happened to me, a soft rattle sound from the air cleaner side and louder in the RPMs esp. 2K

Then, yesterday, low oil pressure, and rod knocking like I've never heard before. I think what you are hearing is the foreshadowing of rod bearing failure.

 

[zach44102]

rod bearing. is a engine saveable after it spins a rod bearing and starts knocking? can you just replace the bearing?

 

[glxrustang]

I could start a new post, but this is the exact same issue I was having and now its consequence. Down to the year of the car!

Rod bearing veterns! How hard to change rod bearings?

And, what signs should we look for that suggest a total engine pull and overhaul?

My knocking is really bad now..

 

[glxrustang]

a spun rod bearing eats the crankshaft. It maybe possible to save it by taking to the machine shop.

 

[rubydist]

Once you get a rod bearing knock on these engines, you are not far away from welding a rod to the crank and destroying the whole engine!!! If you want to salvage the engine, you need to stop running it at once, and repair it.

To repair it, you will need either a good used crank or have yours reground, a new rod for the affected cylinder, and new rod bearings of the appropriate size.

Be sure to keep track of the thrust bearings when you pull the crank, as those are not available to replace.

How hard is it? You could do it in the car if you were determined, but I would suggest pulling the engine. You need to pull the heads to get out the damaged rod, and you need to pull off the pan, windage tray and girdle to get the crank out. If I was doing it, I'd pull all the pistons, clean up the rings on all cylinders so I really knew I had a good engine when it went back together.

 

[glxrustang]

Thanks for the heads up on the thrust bearings. My Dad says the same thing that it needs to be pulled, freakin heck I hope the crank is alright.

 

[CademiaX]

Ya, I wouldn't drive it, or even start it again until you do the rod bearing!

That is the same noise I had right before I did mine, and now the noise is gone.

 

[Mr.SHO]

oh darn..

So pretty much from it sounds i might as well rebuild the motor huh? how much in parts do you guys think this will cost? i purchased the car for a couple hundred because my father has one and I wanted one, also is there any cheaper but just as effective method of doing this? From my understanding the previous owner who had it was driving it one night and a hose on the side of the motor came undone, well this is when the issue started to pop up.

 

[94SHO_Norfolk]

I recently purchased a 1994 SHO, I got a great steal on it but it has a knock on the drives side on the top end, from the sound it sounds like it is coming in the area closest to the air filter. Any possible ideas on what this issue may be? When the vehicle is started the knock is quiet but you can tell its there, then when you rev it up it gets louder? As i asked, any ideas or suggestions to fix this issue?


:thankyou:

How many miles are on the car with your rod bearing problem?

 

[Mr.SHO]

there is 177,000 miles on the car, i picked it up for only a couple hundred bucks because i wanted one after dad got one, also is there anything else it could be or any alternative non costly methods to try before i dig into the motor?

 

[glxrustang]

My car has 188K + miles (+ since the speedo stopped working a while ago) And yes, I have abused her

Well, Phoenix SHO project has a great, I mean frakin awesome, walkthru about replacing those bearings. I tore into mine for about 3 hours after work and got the whole thing apart. The hardest things were the Y-pipe and Starter.

Sure enough, I found some shiny metal flakes at the bottom of the oil pan, so bearing damage has taken place. I should find out today after work what kinda of damage has taken place.

 

[SHOtime2511]

3.2 swap time!

 

[Racer X]

You don't need to remove the engine to replace rod bearings, that's just shenanigans!

Drop the Y-pipe, then oil pan, then windage tray, then main girdle, and replace the bearings one rod at a time. The rod cap nuts get tightened in 2 stages: 25ft.lbs. then 35ft.lbs.