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[cheech]

Hey guys just signed up here. Owned a 95 SHO and now just grabbed a 2010 about 2 months ago.
Mike you didnt need the bolts to adjust rear camber on your car. The rear bolt hole is slotted and adjustable with the factory bolt. The reason the first tech couldnt get the adjustment in spec is because of his lack of strength. The second tech made the adjustment work by pulling on the bolt causing the spindle to slide outward. The bolt you purchased isnt needed for adjustment.
The car comes from the factory at maximum negative camber in the rear with adjustment available to go positive only. It takes a bit of force to move it outward but it will give you more positive camber than you will need.
Hope this helps you guys who need to get the rear adjusted. Mike Im not trying to start a fight with you just trying to get the correct information out there.

 

[Posi]

Posi..........

I had the alignment tech mess around a lil more with the driver's side wheel cuz I showed him the sheet he gave me that had the right rear within spec.....

I was like "hey dude, wth, how can you get the one wheel into spec, but yet the other one is still out by a full degree?"

When a more senior / veteran tech saw the car back on the rack a second time, he came over asking what was up. I explained it to him and he said (while looking at the younger tech) "Here junior, you got put a lil muscle into and turn the bolt more".

Which the senior tech did and wallah, both rear tires were in spec.

So not sure what happened at your facility, but mine are still spot on (spec).

Which is why I posted the alignment sheets as evidence there of.....

Glad to hear though you and the wife both like the lowered ride height. Besides just better vision out the rear window, I also found it makes for easier washing too!

We turned the bolt in a complete circle and the lowest it would move to was -3*'s and then it would go back the other direction. Then if we pried on it we could get it to -2.8*'s.

The car is still out in the rear but one is close to spec. I'm going to think about things for a while and maybe slot a couple of holes to get it into spec.


edit: I'm not mad or anything but it seems we just need to find another way to make sure we can get these things lowered and back in spec.

 

[Posi]

Hey guys just signed up here. Owned a 95 SHO and now just grabbed a 2010 about 2 months ago.
Mike you didnt need the bolts to adjust rear camber on your car. The rear bolt hole is slotted and adjustable with the factory bolt. The reason the first tech couldnt get the adjustment in spec is because of his lack of strength. The second tech made the adjustment work by pulling on the bolt causing the spindle to slide outward. The bolt you purchased isnt needed for adjustment.
The car comes from the factory at maximum negative camber in the rear with adjustment available to go positive only. It takes a bit of force to move it outward but it will give you more positive camber than you will need.
Hope this helps you guys who need to get the rear adjusted. Mike Im not trying to start a fight with you just trying to get the correct information out there.

Like I was saying above there is no room there to get it into spec. At least not on our car and we pried on it to try and get it in. I was there almost the entire time and we never got it to move much farther using a pry bar.

 

[RavensFan79]

My question is what did Ford do for the Stealth Police Interceptor car? It’s lowered and alignment looks good at least in pictures. Hopefully it can be duplicated.

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

Just switched back to my A/S Goodyears on my lowered Brick - H & R Kit... My Conti Extreme DW's have at least 6K on them... THEY ARE PERFECT! KUDO'S to my installer in Clear Lake, IA and the great job they did in getting the alignment correct... Did pickup the special bolts a month or so ago, but looks like I won't need them.

Might be in part the Extra Load Conti's, which have very stiff sidewalls for a 255/45/18" tire. They should last at least 30K, as they really don't show much wear, especially on the shoulders.

Have specs for both Brick and SHO... but haven't taken the time to compare.

 

[RavensFan79]

First..... not sure what, if anything FMC did to the Taurus PI variant.

Second..... haven't really paid much attention to the Taurus PI car (although admittedly I'm hoping our agency buys a few of them).

Third..... maybe this mysterious Mr. Cheech guy can answer that question for you? Try shooting him a PM

I'm talking about this one. It was a SEMA car not the actual PI.

http://rumors.automobilemag.com/672...nterceptor-stealth-concept-at-sema/index.html

 

[cheech]

BPD

First I stated I wasnt here to start a fight with you. I was able to get a degree out of mine but that was all that was needed to get into spec.

Every car is different but I have aligned 3 so far and no problems yet.
Cant really say what was going on under your car but I slide mine out on the rack in the air then performed the final adjustment on the machine.


Glad the bolts worked out for you and Ill keep them in mind should I have one I cant get in spec. Here is the procedure straight out of the factory manual if interested.
BTW Im not really mysterious Im just a man of mystery

Camber Adjustment — Rear Printable View (187 KB)
NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. New parts must be installed with the same part numbers or equivalent part, if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: To allow for rear camber adjustment, the upper arm is slotted at the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle joint. Rear camber is adjusted from the factory with the wheel knuckle pushed inboard for maximum negative camber. If the camber is more negative than specification, the top of the wheel knuckle should be positioned outboard to adjust the rear camber to the positive position.

Using alignment equipment and the manufacturer's instructions, measure the rear camber.
Loosen the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.

Position the wheel knuckle outboard to adjust the rear camber to the positive camber position.

Tighten the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).

Recheck the rear camber and toe.
Adjust as necessary.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[RavensFan79]

BPD

First I stated I wasnt here to start a fight with you. I was able to get a degree out of mine but that was all that was needed to get into spec.

Every car is different but I have aligned 3 so far and no problems yet.
Cant really say what was going on under your car but I slide mine out on the rack in the air then performed the final adjustment on the machine.


Glad the bolts worked out for you and Ill keep them in mind should I have one I cant get in spec. Here is the procedure straight out of the factory manual if interested.
BTW Im not really mysterious Im just a man of mystery

Camber Adjustment — Rear Printable View (187 KB)
NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. New parts must be installed with the same part numbers or equivalent part, if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: To allow for rear camber adjustment, the upper arm is slotted at the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle joint. Rear camber is adjusted from the factory with the wheel knuckle pushed inboard for maximum negative camber. If the camber is more negative than specification, the top of the wheel knuckle should be positioned outboard to adjust the rear camber to the positive position.

Using alignment equipment and the manufacturer's instructions, measure the rear camber.
Loosen the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.

Position the wheel knuckle outboard to adjust the rear camber to the positive camber position.

Tighten the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).

Recheck the rear camber and toe.
Adjust as necessary.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Do you have the printable view in a PDF to attach?

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

Think the key to aligning these platforms with stock bolts is to really crank on the bolts. Likely the outsourced bolts just make it easier...

My alignment guys had a more difficult time with front, in that one of the non-adjustable specs was actually out of spec. Was still off after lowering, but closer. Not critical to wear, just centering.
Did say they really cranked on everything to get it right. And 4 K later tires( with now 6-7 K on them) still look perfect!

 

[cheech]

Do you have the printable view in a PDF to attach?

PM me your email and Ill send it your way.

 

[Posi]

I'm probably going to just try another alignment shop before anything else is attempted. Wish me luck....

 

[First-SHO]

I used the bolts and went to Belle Tire here in Jackson, MI (new store & latest alignment equipment) Specs came in perfectly.

 

[steve142857]

Think the key to aligning these platforms with stock bolts is to really crank on the bolts. Likely the outsourced bolts just make it easier...

My alignment guys had a more difficult time with front, in that one of the non-adjustable specs was actually out of spec. Was still off after lowering, but closer. Not critical to wear, just centering.
Did say they really cranked on everything to get it right. And 4 K later tires( with now 6-7 K on them) still look perfect!

As I wrote in another thread, my car was never aligned after being lowered with HR springs... I was relying on a supposed qualified guy, but apparently not... he just test drove it after and told me it was fine and didn't need the camber bolts. I realized last week, during an oil change, that my tires, especially the ones in the front, were worn a lot from the inside. They only have about 4K miles and almost no more thread on the first inch or two from the inside... I switched front with rear tires and soon will have them change from left to right (changing mags) so that they wear more equally. That said, I went with a specialist in alignment today and he ran a test to see the results... Ouch, the real issue is that my car being lowered sat and the wheels actually opened in a V shape. The degree of opening is supposed to be 0.15 and mine were-0.49 and -0.69. So, instead of a total of +0.30, I was at -1.18... that has been taken care of. Now, I will order the camber bolts 81280 and the guy will install them and I will be back within the range... Finally, for the front, I am slightly off at 3.87 and 3.94 instead of recommended 2.35-3.85 and 2.55-4.05...
DOES ANYONE HAVE A RECOMMENDATION FOR FRONT ADJUSTMENT?
Thank you very much!
Steve
P.S. With the car being realigned (parallel), I swear I notice a difference. So watch out, 12.8 sec is coming soon! lol!

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

I had my alignment checked BEFORE adding H & R's last summer.

Mostly in spec, but car want's to track straight, instead of slightly to right.

After install.. they were able to get it back to same specs. NOTE: this is not always possible... based on a couple of my friends who have Flex who have H & R's. I assume this also applies to SHO's... as they are all slightly different, depending on the day they are built.

Point is... ALWAYS get your vehicle aligned after any suspension change, and after installation of NEW tires. CHEAP way to save money and get more tire mileage.

My Conti DW's summer tires have 15K on them, and are good for another 15-20 K..

 

[steve142857]

I had my alignment checked BEFORE adding H & R's last summer.

Mostly in spec, but car want's to track straight, instead of slightly to right.

After install.. they were able to get it back to same specs. NOTE: this is not always possible... based on a couple of my friends who have Flex who have H & R's. I assume this also applies to SHO's... as they are all slightly different, depending on the day they are built.

Point is... ALWAYS get your vehicle aligned after any suspension change, and after installation of NEW tires. CHEAP way to save money and get more tire mileage.

My Conti DW's summer tires have 15K on them, and are good for another 15-20 K..

Now I know... a 1000$ mistake is a good lesson believe me lol!

 

[steve142857]

Anyone looking for this part I found them for $26.00. Half the price

http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-61324-124-SPC.aspx

Just ordered those camber bolts through Direct Tuning, still at 26$... plus 26$ shipping to Canada!!! Ouch! Always the damn shipping and custom charges...

 

[SpoolinX2]

Where are you guys getting your cars aligned at? I've had bad experiences around here with some of the mainstream shops (Sears, Pep Boys, etc)...and I don't want to chance it with this car (I've read AWD alignments are more critical). How good is the stealerships with these kinda things?

 

[gregoire]

OK had the springs put on last week. Mechanic was able to get rear camber settings in spec by making the lower control arms fully adjustable. I can tell that there work was performed on the arms and connectors involved but I am not exactly sure what he did to make it adjustable.

Can someone more mechanically inclined shed some light on what you think he did to make them "fully adjustable"?