Today's Puzzler - alarm related

[doclees]

OK just replaced my CCRM. While I was troubleshooting it I got annoyed with the loud alarm going of in my ear at 1am so I cut the wires, red and black, to the siren. The lights seemed to blink as usual and I had to hit the unlock button on the key fob to test the engine. 3 days have passed from then to today when I installed the new CCRM. So I try starting and it almost goes. Smelled like it was flooded. But an odd thing happened when I used the key fob to lock in the starter. It locked the doors and unlocked the doors with one push of the unlock button. THEN someone came over and used their remote to lock their mazda car doors and my locks do the same thing - down and up. My key fob does nothing for her car. Thought maybe cutting the wires was a bad thing. I disconnected the battery and installed the siren again. Reconnect the battery and the siren goes off and the key fob does nothing. I try pulling both cables and reinstall. Same thing. No key fob control. I get the other fob. No diff. I check fob battery - 12v. So I find the override button for the alarm and disarm it that way. Had to jump the car to get it going. Used too much juice troubleshooting and getting the computer to reset everything. I runs great now but no key fob control. This is a double problem because I replaced the ignition column lock with a blank one a year ago and forgot to keep the key to open doors. I need a working remote key fob. Any clues - troubleshooting guide - ??? thanks

 

[ohfosho]

could be a bad alarm. the alarm have starter interupt/****? wont allow starter to turn if alarm is active/going off.

gen 3 sho i am assuming (talking about mazda key fobs working on it, i dont think mazda had key fobs similar to fords early '90's)

could be a problem with the interlocking module (allows aftermarket alarm installation integration with factory keyless/alarm)

 

[doclees]

Thanks. Gen II 93 atx. Never had anybody's key fob do anything to this car before. Is there a Microsoft reset button for the alarm system? You know a reboot.

 

[naval-avi8or]

Thanks. Gen II 93 atx. Never had anybody's key fob do anything to this car before. Is there a Microsoft reset button for the alarm system? You know a reboot.

You need to reprogram your key fobs. There is a single two wire connector (brown i think) wire tucked be hind the side carpet in the trunk driver side wheel well area. You use a paper clip and short the connector a then turn key on. Doors locks should cycle. then one remote at a time you press lock and it should lock and unlock. After doing all key fobs then turn key off end disconnect shorting wire. Should be good to go. If this fails let me know and I'll search for my old directions and make sure my memory isn't serving me wrong.

 

[doclees]

I'm going to give it a try right now!

OK I found a brown/blue single wire with a M/F coupler. Also is a 3 wire coupler, 2 orange/green 1 black/green. I'll try the Br/Bl first. Do I short the wire to the body? Do I try the female end first?
thanks

 

[naval-avi8or]

I'm going to give it a try right now!

OK I found a brown/blue single wire with a M/F coupler. Also is a 3 wire coupler, 2 orange/green 1 black/green. I'll try the Br/Bl first. Do I short the wire to the body? Do I try the female end first?
thanks

One update to my previous post. Turn key to run then short the connector. Door locks should cycle then one transmitter at a time push any button (I reccomend lock) door locks should lock then unlock. Repeat for each transmitter up to 4. Key off then remove shorting plug. Check remotes for correct operation.

 

[doclees]

I just did the BR/Bl wire. Pulled the connector and grounded one end at a time to the body. Nothing. I'll try turning the key on first this time. Check back in 10.

Nothing. I turned key to on, pulled the connector, clipped a wire from the female end to the body. Nothing. I tried the other end. Nothing. No cycling of locks. The connectors in question are on the back of the strut tower on the left hand side.

 

[naval-avi8or]

I just did the BR/Bl wire. Pulled the connector and grounded one end at a time to the body. Nothing. I'll try turning the key on first this time. Check back in 10.

Nothing. I turned key to on, pulled the connector, clipped a wire from the female end to the body. Nothing. I tried the other end. Nothing. No cycling of locks. The connectors in question are on the back of the strut tower on the left hand side.

It's a two wire connector and it should be taped/secured underneath the rear package tray. The wire colors are W/Y and GY/Y (just found it in my EVTM). You must short the connector from one pin tho the other. Paper clip works great.

 

[doclees]

Thanks, back to the trunk.

 

[doclees]

OK I'm stumped. I don't have any 2 wire connection in the trunk, let alone one with that color wires. What do you mean by rear package tray? Back seat deck?

 

[naval-avi8or]

When I had to do this many years ago mine was just behind the carpet on the left hand side of the trunk. Manual says taped underneath the package tray (rear deck where the speakers are mounted. If you have a stock stereo you can remove the amp cover and locate the keyless entry module (black box with litlle antanea) and look for the two wires in the module connector #'s 10 and 15. and then trace them to the programming connector.

 

[doclees]

Thanks, I"ll find it tonight. Wife took car. Hope she remembers not to lock doors! I finally tried the screwdriver in the door latch trick. Worked great.

 

[doclees]

Key Fob receiver location

O-tay, I'm stumped. Can't find anything in the trunk that looks like a receiver. Nothing with an antennae. Only three boxes of any sort. One is the old amp. The other is to the left of the amp on the back of the seat. About 3x4x1 inches with multi wires coming off. The last is the fuel cut off.
Has it been know to be hid elsewhere?

 

[naval-avi8or]

O-tay, I'm stumped. Can't find anything in the trunk that looks like a receiver. Nothing with an antennae. Only three boxes of any sort. One is the old amp. The other is to the left of the amp on the back of the seat. About 3x4x1 inches with multi wires coming off. The last is the fuel cut off.
Has it been know to be hid elsewhere?

That should be the correct box. If you look on the lower right side of the box that's where the antanna (just like in the back of a stereo head unit) cable plugs in. There also should be a lable on the box (usually white in color) that contains the keypad code.

Double check for the connector behind the carpet on the left hand (drivers side) around the access area for the fuel inertia shutoff switch.

The correct connector on the remote entry module is the larger connector thats closest to the rear and has 16 pins (10 and 3 + 3) On my box its the one thats black.

 

[doclees]

Umm..nope, I'm still stupid. The box I see has 6 wires and nothing else. Green/Yellow, Purple/orange, Black/blue, Black/blue, White/blue and black. These are from left to right on the connector. They are small gauge wires. This box is not a simple rectangle. Where the connector plugs in this area protrudes about a 1/2 inch. Besides the ford pn there is a "3G21" above the connector. In addition I can only find one connector that is not connected to anything. It is a 4 point male end with larger gauge wires. Top are Black/green and 2 solid blue. Bottom 2 are yellows. I am getting ready to remove all the trunk trim panels out of the trunk to find this sucker. Mind you I have pulled them all back and looked in the spare well.

 

[naval-avi8or]

I guess I should ask if you have the factory keyless entry system.

Module mounted on left hand side back of rear seat. 3 1/4 wide 3 1/2 tall 2 5/8 deep. Big white sticker that reads ATTENTION: then within the print and part numbers FORD REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY more part numbers and then large numbers that are the drivers door key code.

 

[doclees]

I do not have the keypad on the door. Just the ford 2 button key fob. RF not IR. No big white sticker on anything I see.

 

[naval-avi8or]

OK that sounds like some dealership add on ford security/alarm system. The Factory keyless system had a four button remote and some also had the door keypad.

I have an add ford alarm system (still in the box never installed) but it also works with the four button remote. This stumps me cause I have no clue what you have.

That being said they had to have mounted a alarm module/brain somewhere and generally they mount them under the dash or behind the stereo area. I don't know if those add ons even have the same remote progaming or not.

 

[doclees]

Thanks I'll look under the dash.

 

[doclees]

All right I think I found the box! Deep under my dash I found a "Ford Security System" box. It has a small gauge black/white wire coming off like a small antennae. It has four or five multiwire connector plugs going into it. One large, one medium and two or three that only have 2 wires each. Not sure. So do I look for the same wires to jump?

Update. I found the original paperwork. It has a reprogram sequence where you get in car, close door, wait until the dome light goes out, turn key to on, then use the dimmer switch to turn the dome light on and off 3 times, then turn key to off. The siren will chirp 3 times to enter learning mode. Press key fob button, unlock lock. Next the sire should chirp once. Mine didn't chirp in the end. Then the car wouldn't start even with pushing the disarm button. So taking my cue from Bill Gates I pulled the battery cable to reboot. Reattached cable, alarm comes on and key fob shuts it off! Yeah.