Rotors that won't warp?

[RonPorter]

All true, the holes and slots give a place for all those gasses and dust to go.. so it isn't collecting. But there are some poorly designed "blank" rotors as well as poorly designed drilled and/or slotted. Metal does warp with excessive heat... if the rotor isn't holding up to the heat of a specific application, it can cause "dips" that can definitely cause vibration.. yet, I agree.. drilled and slotted rotors aren't a "solution", necessarily, to this particular problem.. but getting a quality set of rotors, with or without holes, as well as pads should be a priority if your "standing" on the pedal more frequent than the average driver. IMO

Gasses haven't been an issue since they took asbestos out of the pads. One of the articles in the links I posted above explains that.

Nor is dust or water. These aren't drum brakes with shoes.

When
you bed new pads to the rotors, that's the only outgassing that really occurs. Some pads like the bedding in better than others, like the Carbotech XPs.

 

[Billy VK]

So it's there a way to fix what I have? They were perfect for months... Then one hard use of them on the highway and now the shake. Ideas?

 

[yaycandy]

So it's there a way to fix what I have? They were perfect for months... Then one hard use of them on the highway and now the shake. Ideas?

Pads are glazed, get better pads. Ebc yellow stuff have the best bite when cold and hot. Run oem rotors if you plan on keeping it under 100mph.
If you plan on tracking it, get slotted only rotors. If its a wet track day run full drilled for consistent braking, they crack at the holes when they get hot so dont run them at a dry track. Most racing rules dont allow them anyway.
Most drilled and slotted are for show, its what they are best at.

If you plan on daily driving either oem rotors or a set a drilled and slotted just to make it look neat. You probably wont feel a difference. My daily driver has drilled and slotted as it looks better.
When you track there is a lot of variables that need figured out for the type of brakes needed, no one size fits all.

 

[Billy VK]

Pads are glazed, get better pads. Ebc yellow stuff have the best bite when cold and hot. Run oem rotors if you plan on keeping it under 100mph.
If you plan on tracking it, get slotted only rotors. If its a wet track day run full drilled for consistent braking, they crack at the holes when they get hot so dont run them at a dry track. Most racing rules dont allow them anyway.
Most drilled and slotted are for show, its what they are best at.

If you plan on daily driving either oem rotors or a set a drilled and slotted just to make it look neat. You probably wont feel a difference. My daily driver has drilled and slotted as it looks better.
When you track there is a lot of variables that need figured out for the type of brakes needed, no one size fits all.

So it sounds like my downfall right now may be pads. Suggestions on pad material? Mostly street driven but some auto cross and light to light stuff happens. I'm sure I will get it to a track day now that I have the weekends off.

 

[yaycandy]

So it sounds like my downfall right now may be pads. Suggestions on pad material? Mostly street driven but some auto cross and light to light stuff happens. I'm sure I will get it to a track day now that I have the weekends off.

The oem rotors are actually good for a 2013 and up. Just the pads needed to be better, hence why the pp brake package is just better pads.
Just search for EBC Yellow Stuff pads, im sure Summit Racing has them. And make sure you break them in correctly. They usually tell you how to. And hey that part is fun

 

[Billy VK]

The oem rotors are actually good for a 2013 and up. Just the pads needed to be better, hence why the pp brake package is just better pads.
Just search for EBC Yellow Stuff pads, im sure Summit Racing has them. And make sure you break them in correctly. They usually tell you how to. And hey that part is fun

Lol nice. Ok maybe I just need to start with changing pads and see how it acts. Thanks

 

[RonPorter]

Lol nice. Ok maybe I just need to start with changing pads and see how it acts. Thanks

Yes, pads are the issue, and not the rotors. And guys have had decent luck with the 2013+ PP pads, even for an occasional track day.

 

[SM105K]

Yes, pads are the issue, and not the rotors. And guys have had decent luck with the 2013+ PP pads, even for an occasional track day.

I beat the snot out of my Powerstop Rotors with stock OEM PP pads. Numerous 140+ come downs with no issues. They work damn good bringing the land yacht back down to legal speeds.

 

[shaker281]

Is this possibly a 2010-2012 car with the oem sized rotors? If so, I don't think any rotor/pad is going to solve your problem long term. You need to upgrade to 2013+ brakes.

I agree that rotors don't necessarily warp, but they can get spots that cause pulsation from too much heat. I am not sure that having them turned is very useful at that point.

I went with oem 2013 rotors, calipers, brackets and MC SD brake pads in front. Problem solved for daily driving.

 

[Billy VK]

Is this possibly a 2010-2012 car with the hem sized rotors? If so, I don't think any rotor/pad is going to solve your problem long term. You need to upgrade to 2013+ brakes.

I agree that rotors don't necessarily warp, but they can get spots that cause pulsation from too much heat. I am not sure that having them turned is very useful at that point.

I went with oem 2013 rotors, calipers, brackets and MC SD brake pads in front. Problem solved for daily driving.

Nah, it's a 13. I'm really just guessing ****** pads at this point. I'll start there at least.

 

[shaker281]

To be fair, I haven't driven it that hard since upgrading brakes.

 

[6500rpm]

I just replaced the front brakes on my 13 PP for the first time at 90k miles. Daily driver, obviously a lot of highway, pretty common to hit the exit at 75mph and lay on the brakes hard right before the light (no traffic and if it's green I'm going to make it and not wait). I had zero brake pulsation at 90k. When I cut the rotors it averaged .003"-.004" each side (rough and finish cut combined) just to clean up the wear peaks and valleys. One side on one rotor had just a hint of warp where it missed a small patch on the first cut.
I'm going to be that guy and say for semi aggressive daily driving, the OEM PP rotors and Ford p/n DG1Z-2001-F pads are hard to beat.
I'm also going to reference my training (GM) and say as long as the rotor has sufficient material, your beter off resurfacing rather than replacing. The used rotor has already heat stress relieved and is less likely to warp than a new ****** part.
I'm just putting this out there since this is the maintenance area of the forum, not specific to high performance needs.

 

[Tbird6]

I agree but have found several places that just won't cut the discs anymore and tell you replacement is the only option.
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[SilvererSHO]

One of the worst things you can also do to your rotors is come to a hard stop and then hold the pedal down while sitting motionless. The pads suck the heat out of that one area and then if you do another stop right away your rotors have inconsistent thickness and feel "warped". Do this enough times in a row and you will wear your rotors inconsistently. I always allow distance ahead of me so I can keep inching forward while waiting for the light to turn green.

 

[yamahaSHO]

All true, the holes and slots give a place for all those gasses and dust to go.. so it isn't collecting. But there are some poorly designed "blank" rotors as well as poorly designed drilled and/or slotted. Metal does warp with excessive heat... if the rotor isn't holding up to the heat of a specific application, it can cause "dips" that can definitely cause vibration.. yet, I agree.. drilled and slotted rotors aren't a "solution", necessarily, to this particular problem.. but getting a quality set of rotors, with or without holes, as well as pads should be a priority if your "standing" on the pedal more frequent than the average driver. IMO

Not much to mess up in a "blank" design, but there are poor castings/metallurgy. In that case, you generally just wear through the rotor quickly with crap tons of crazing.

One of the worst things you can also do to your rotors is come to a hard stop and then hold the pedal down while sitting motionless. The pads suck the heat out of that one area and then if you do another stop right away your rotors have inconsistent thickness and feel "warped". Do this enough times in a row and you will wear your rotors inconsistently. I always allow distance ahead of me so I can keep inching forward while waiting for the light to turn green.

You have that backwards. Pads will hold the heat in, which is why we do not set parking brakes after getting off the race track.



A good quality, blank rotor and pad selection based on your usage are what you want.

 

[SilvererSHO]

Not much to mess up in a "blank" design, but there are poor castings/metallurgy. In that case, you generally just wear through the rotor quickly with crap tons of crazing.



You have that backwards. Pads will hold the heat in, which is why we do not set parking brakes after getting off the race track.



A good quality, blank rotor and pad selection based on your usage are what you want.

Touche!