White smoke from exhaust

[Pintony]

It appears that the turbochargers from 010-014 are the same for the SHO and the Lincoln MKS are the same so maybe a used unit from the breakers yard could be utilized... Sorry that you have gotten all the bad news about your SHO Adam.

6K682A


Turbocharger
3.5L Dual Over Head Cam T/C V6 Gas ; RH
$570.33

*
+Add To Cart

6K682B


Turbocharger
3.5L Dual Over Head Cam T/C V6 Gas ; LH
$568.88

 

[sperold]

Clear out the turbo and associated piping the best you can, and drive it much longer than over the weekend.
It is too early to decide the turbo is a problem.

Do a rad pressure test and see how long it takes for the pressure to drop. I think you can buy them for home use and they are not too expensive.

I bought a Gen 2 SHO that did not leak a drop of coolant on the day I bought it and drove it 300 miles home. When I flushed the coolant, it leaked a cup a minute. It had been doctored with "stop-leak" in an amount that defied description.
I cleaned up the system, changed the pump and never had a moments trouble with the heater core or any other cooling system part.
Try some stop leak (and try not to listen to everyone who will tell you it is the worst thing you can do). If you use the one with solids, boil the contents on your stove before you install it.
Keep driving the vehicle to see if some of your symptoms clear up.

Your dealership doesnot sound like a classy place to me.

Your dealership has your car at a point where it would make sense to drop the whole subframe and engine and make all your corrections at once, yet they are not offering you that. They seem to prefer the drip -drip - drip approach.

Keep driving it till you find a decent shop or dealership.

 

[SHOdded]

No stop leak in these engines. They don't work well with the organic acid chemistry of the coolants, and can clog the significantly narrower passages in these engines.

 

[Pintony]

No stop leak in these engines. They don't work well with the organic acid chemistry of the coolants, and can clog the significantly narrower passages in these engines.

Sounds like good info there SHOdded!

 

[shoblock]

Here is the latest. The dealer replaced the PCV valve and oil separator and the car is still smoking. They said they took the cover off the left turbo and oil started dripping out. They are thinking the turbo needs replaced which is another 13hr job I'm told with a $3k price tag. They want me to drive it until Monday just in case the oil in the turbo is residual from the PCV valve/oil separator issue and it "might" stop smoking once that oil burns off.

I drove it about 15-20 miles home from the dealer and it smoked the majority of the time. I will try and upload a video of the smoke soon.

They have backed off the "engine could be ruined" and now it's the leaking water pump and probably bad turbo. If I have to have it all replaced I'm out around $5k.

The water pump is inside the front cover and propelled by the timing chain. On older models (pre-2013 I think) there was a double seal, two o-rings, running the perimeter of the water pump-to-block seal. Newer motors have a single seal. In between the seals on the older motors, is a pathway for anti-freeze to flow to the weep hole in the side of the block when the water pumb starts to fail. The dealer cannot show you the water pump, only the weep hole on the left side of the block, which would have anti-freeze coming out. There is also the possibility that anti-freeze is getting into the crankcase from a leaky water pump bearing seal. You should most definitely check your oil for the presence of anti-freeze. This is my guess of what your whole problem is, and any dealer worth anything should have checked for the presence of anti-freeze in the oil FIRST. If they did, fine, but I read through this post twice and did not see it stated. SHOdded and I agree on this: change the water pump before you do anything else.