Newbie w/97 SHO

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stephen newberg

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Yes. That is the most fruitful place to look. If you have to replace it, you can get the entire assembly with Flowmaster cats for a quite reasonable price from the auto parts discounters online. I did this a year or so ago.

pax, smn
 

MikeW72

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Got a ton done today, i fixed the oil leak and took a bath in coolant. I mounted and balanced my used Toyo tires. I located the exhauat leak, it is on the y-pipe. Tomorrow its off to the DMV. I did notice whole driving around the block under acceralation that the front end felt a little loose. I haven't had the front tires off yet but I'll be inspecting the tie rods and ball joints. Have you guys had any experience replacing motor mounts? That was my other thought.
 

BamSHO

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Have down both motor mounts, front one isnt bad, back back one car be a pain. Watch out buying aftermarket rears, they dont seem to fit. Sounds like ball joints and tie rod ends could be bad. I had replaced inner/outer tie rods and ball joints in my 98.


Brian Michael
98 black Gen3
 

Michael Lanning

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question about oil cooler gasket

Got a ton done today, i fixed the oil leak and took a bath in coolant. I mounted and balanced my used Toyo tires. I located the exhauat leak, it is on the y-pipe. Tomorrow its off to the DMV. I did notice whole driving around the block under acceralation that the front end felt a little loose. I haven't had the front tires off yet but I'll be inspecting the tie rods and ball joints. Have you guys had any experience replacing motor mounts? That was my other thought.

When you removed the oil cooler assembly from the block...and started to put it back on did you use the same oil cooler gasket or what did you do for a gasket ?....thanks
 

MikeW72

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I removed the oil filter, then the two coolant lines (when doing this coolant is going to pour all over you so be ready) I took my impat gun w/30mm socket and took off the cooling assembly leaving the rest on the car. I cleaned it really good put a little rtv in the groove and put the new o ring on. I put it back on the car by hand and snugged on in setting 2 on my impat gun not to over tighten it. I also noticed the the two pipes for the cooling lines off the assembly were completely clogged so I blew some compressed air through there and used a pick to clean them out before i put it back on the car. The two lines were kind of a pain getting back on, I ended up doing one from the top.
 

SHOMEX

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When you removed the oil cooler assembly from the block...and started to put it back on did you use the same oil cooler gasket or what did you do for a gasket ?....thanks

For your question; if you remove the cooler assembly from the block its good to use copper spray on the metal gasket, I have used rtv in the past and it will leak after 1 or 2 years; with the cooper spray it wont leak just make sure that everything is really clean before you bolt the cooler back to the block.
 
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Bull Geek

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When you removed the oil cooler assembly from the block...and started to put it back on did you use the same oil cooler gasket or what did you do for a gasket ?....thanks

For your question; if you remove the cooler assembly from the block its good to use cooper spray on the metal gasket, I have used rtv in the past and it will leak after 1 or 2 years; with the cooper spray it wont leak just make sure that everything is really clean before you bolt the cooler back to the block.

Where can I buy cooper spray? Have a picture of this stuff? Incase I need to go back in to fix a leak, if it's the right stuff to use, I'd like to have it on hand.
 

Michael Lanning

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Thanks for your response...I wasn't sure what type of gasket was used on the oil cooler. So it's a metal gasket. So when I remove the cooler from the block I will need to also remove the metal gasket from the block and clean both sides and then use cooper spray on both sides of the gasket when putting the oil cooler back on ?
 

SHOMEX

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Yes remove the gasket and all the oil from it and apply the copper spray on both sides (its super sticky) and you can go to any autozone o'rreilys or any autoparts store its available anywhere; its made by permatex and is on the gasket maker section. Like 6 bucks per can.
 
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Michael Lanning

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Yes remove the gasket and all the oil from it and apply the copper spray on both sides (its super sticky) and you can go to any autozone o'rreilys or any autoparts store its available anywhere; its made by permatex and is on the gasket maker section. Like 6 bucks per can.

Thanks, For all the help.
 

MikeW72

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Hi everyone,
Just an update on the $400 car I purchased a month or so. I finally got some time to get to the DMV to register the car. So far I have fixed the brake lines, fixed the oil leak and replaced the flex pipe along with some fluids and fuel filter. I took a long ride the other day in the car, the front end feels very loose and I attribute this to bad ball joints and inner and outer tie rods. I recieved all my parts this morning from Rock Auto that include all the above along with new front rotors and pads. I got a **** of a deal. The car like mentioned before has 217K miles and unsure if cams are welded that is going to be my next project to remove the valve covers and inspect. The engine runs great, after replacing the cam position sensor the car starts easily and no longer have a check engine light on. It pulls good and sounds great. One thing I did notice is a first the trans shifts okay, its a little sloppy but from what I read about my 98 taurus, its about the same. Once the car is at operating temp I can feel sometimes the car coming out of gear or slipping. The fluid is at the right level but is NOT red. My plan this weekend is to get the car and jacks and change out the fluid to see if this helps, I read the procedure of V8SHO. I really don't want to have to change the trans out but I have found a replacement at a local JY for $400 with 80K on it. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike
 

SHOMEX

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before you plan on replacing the trans I would say: do a complete flush and tranny filter change. Look for SHOZ123 how to and if possible run an aftermarket tranny cooler in line with the factory one and that should help a lot. I did this to my car long time ago and still have the factory tranny with almost 220k and still running strong.
 

MikeW72

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Great thanks. I actually have a b&m stacked plate cooler in the garage I was going to use on my last vehicle but couldnt get it to fit. Thanks again!
 

Liquid_force

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Pretty rare if it's the original trans still hanging in there at that mileage.
Not super knowledgeable on trans', but if it's generally shifting ok the problem may be a worn torque converter. They are way cheaper than a new trans but the labor's no easier.
I'm sure someone better versed with auto trans operation can help you determine if it's likely the trans itself or just the tc.
 

MikeW72

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Took it for another ride today, you may be right it feels as though the converter is locking & unlocking. Shifts fine especially at wide open throttle.
 
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