Starting rod bearings, can't get o2 off.

[Toul]

Do I need to remove front o2 sensor to take the Y off or are they ok staying on? If the front o2 has to come off, I think I'm going to tuck tail and take it to a shop. Damn thing is seized pretty solidly. I've got a crows foot attachment, but the front o2 sensor it's not budging.

o2 sensor is basting in PB blaster for tonight. Kind of worried about getting in there with a torch, tight area and all, lots of plastic things around. But that's tomorrow morning.

 

[kevinspann]

O2s stay in, leave it alone. As long as you can get the nuts off of the manifold, you're pretty golden.

 

[Toul]

Awesome, they need to be replaced still though. Aught to be able to hit it with impact wrench if it's off.

 

[St Louis SHO]

heat it up once the pipe is out.

 

[sperold]

I got mine off, but you have to heat them up with a torch. No other way. I think they are originally installed far too tight.

 

[91PDXmocha]

PB blaster , let it soak in for a little while before you go at it.

 

[Brett]

PB blaster , let it soak in for a little while before you go at it.

This. i hit my exhaust studs with some PB at night, then again in the am, and started on it at about 5pm. they came right out.

 

[Toul]

Is there any way to replace the exhaust studs? The easy way would be headers , but no money for that.

The studs look like they're ended with a flat head to back them out with, but I can't see any way in **** they'd come off without breaking.

I assume easiest/best way would be to pull off the exhaust manifolds and do it off the car?

 

[St Louis SHO]

need a real torch for that.

 

[Toul]

Old rod bearings. 225k miles, 1993. Don't think they've been replaced before, least not since I got her at 122k.

That one is pretty gnarly looking. It's pitted and rough. I was hearing the bearing for the past 2 weeks or so, drove her as sweetly as I could. I didn't see any scoring on the crank, so lets hope she'll be ok.

I'll try to get a clearer picture with a different camera.

 

[AREA 91]

No need to remove the O2's in an MTX application.
If you are careful, you can get a torch up in there to remove the old exhaust maifold studs.
If you are really worried about burning your sho to the ground, remove the manifold first. Now you can clamp it in a vice and heat that sucker red hot.
An easy replacement for the exhaust studs is from the HELP rack. Par #03100

 

[Toul]

I just broke a bolt while torquing down the 12mm bolts that hold the girdle on. Following SHO phoenix guide it says 15-24 ftlb. Hit them at 20 and one decided to stretch in half. I felt it, so I backed it out in one piece, but FML.

Really don't feel inclined to tear into my parts car seeing as my only set of jack stands is holding up my driver.

Chances of being able to buy a replacement at an AutoAdvanceOrielyNapaZone?


Edit: Bought a pack of replacement grade 8, 12mm 1.25 pitch, 25mm length bolts. Hope the next person to tear apart the bottom doesn't laugh at me.

What are the chances of stripping the receiving threads of the block torquing the grade 8's to ~25 ft lb? Zero?

Will grade 8's hold in place since isn't a torque rating the point at which the bolt itself stretches just a little bit to guarantee it won't back out by itself?

 

[NEp8ntballer]

I didn't have any issues torquing the motors in both my car and JRA2000TL's 95. When it gives a range of torque values I try and shoot for the middle of them. I have however seen a lot of issues with the y pipe to manifold studs stripping and snapping.