TPS and throttle pedal %

[Tyrone Beasly]

Helping another guy with his SHO that’s been kicking everyone’s butt to get it to run.

when using a scan tool or data logging the throttle never goes above 75% and in one log we saw it drop and come back in a second. The tps (throttle plate) agrees with the pedal position in the logs as well.

any ideas..

Ive messed with BMW a bit to and know the pedal has to be calibrated in those.

 

[Jordan_R]

Throttle percent on these doesn't go over typically 80-82% on a tuned sho. If it's all stock that is probably accurate

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

Throttle percent on these doesn't go over typically 80-82% on a tuned sho. If it's all stock that is probably accurate

it’s a GHT e30 tune. I don’t have mine here or I could compare them. Yeah 75% is top of the throttle travel. On the data logs throttle body seems to follow it pretty close.

We are trying to figure out why OAR is pegged at zero all the time. So trouble shooting everything we can. 0 is the base number so there is a parameter that’s not being met. Even if there is a bad knock sensor or something else out we would see the OAR move off zero. OAR must have temp and load to work from what I understand. Car was really stout stock. I was excited to see what it would do but he’s had constant issues. The first 2 tunes were unusable and now it runs and drives just doesn’t have power.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Torque management. Many tuners use throttle control to keep boost and fuel pressure happy.

75-82% is max, and then often it will drop back down to 40% or so if OAR isn't happy.

Have you asked Matt for input? If you return to stock does it work fine? Any CELs?

 

[Jordan_R]

OAR uses knock to adjust. Must see minimum -4 knock for it to adjust some on gh tune. No knock input no adjustment. Not based off temp or load as far as I know. I mean you've got to have a certain amount of load to have it go negative knock or add timing but other than that load has no difference

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

Torque management. Many tuners use throttle control to keep boost and fuel pressure happy.

75-82% is max, and then often it will drop back down to 40% or so if OAR isn't happy.

Have you asked Matt for input? If you return to stock does it work fine? Any CELs?

We went to stock and the reloaded the tune. Yeah it didn’t like to run at all stock. We started it and that was it. Don’t think it likes that xdi pump on a stock tune. But after a reload, no CEL and no codes. It’s actually never produced any. Never any knock either, (yes we checked that too) It actually run good according to the logs.

We called ght and got an email or two. Biggest problem is we both fly for a living 100% international so we don’t have a lot of time. Takes a couple days to hear anything and by that time you could be on the other side of the world. Makes this hobby a pita sometimes

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

OAR uses knock to adjust. Must see minimum -4 knock for it to adjust some on gh tune. No knock input no adjustment. Not based off temp or load as far as I know. I mean you've got to have a certain amount of load to have it go negative knock or add timing but other than that load has no difference

In the logs it steps negative consistently steps to -1.0 on every run.

that seems to be the bottom as it will stay there until a shift. Never goes positive

 

[Jordan_R]

In the logs it steps negative consistently steps to -1.0 on every run.

that seems to be the bottom as it will stay there until a shift. Never goes positive

Put it in fifth at 40mph, set cruise and then rapidly increase the speed on the cruise. That's my trick to lug the engine enough to cause the knock sensors to add timing. WOT isn't a good way to get your OAR up as there is moments in the pull that will reset the knock sensors before reaching -4.

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

Put it in fifth at 40mph, set cruise and then rapidly increase the speed on the cruise. That's my trick to lug the engine enough to cause the knock sensors to add timing. WOT isn't a good way to get your OAR up as there is moments in the pull that will reset the knock sensors before reaching -4.

good idea but no such luck definitely keep that method in my pocket for in the future. It’s like some parameter is not being satisfied.

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

good idea but no such luck definitely keep that method in my pocket for in the future. It’s like some parameter is not being satisfied.

went back to an earlier tune 3rd gear pull and it works. Knock to -3 and OAR -.44

however now it won’t shit right

 

[luigisho]

fiber

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

went back to an earlier tune 3rd gear pull and it works. Knock to -3 and OAR -.44

however now it won’t shit right

SHIFT

won’t shift right

lmao you are guys are brutal

 

[luigisho]

lobbed over the plate..couldn't help myself

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

OK for months this car has been kicking everyones @SS but today SHE RAN

Here is what we did

1) returned to stock run file
2) KAM cleared
3) battery ground removed, ground lead jumpered to positive lead for probably 10 min
4) reload GHT E30
5) put Four additional fat bastards in and got in to 6th gear as early as possible and went WOT to 80mph several times. Once was up a pretty good grade.
6) It all works, shifts good and OAR is -1.0, boost is 15 lbs

car feels really strong

(now I don't fill guilty for talking him into getting one)

 

[FiveLeeter918]

OK for months this car has been kicking everyones @SS but today SHE RAN

Here is what we did

1) returned to stock run file
2) KAM cleared
3) battery ground removed, ground lead jumpered to positive lead for probably 10 min
4) reload GHT E30
5) put Four additional fat bastards in and got in to 6th gear as early as possible and went WOT to 80mph several times. Once was up a pretty good grade.
6) It all works, shifts good and OAR is -1.0, boost is 15 lbs

car feels really strong

(now I don't fill guilty for talking him into getting one)

Glad you figured it out!

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

Glad you figured it out!

Yeah kid in the neighborhood has a focus RS. That was his advice. He claimed there are some older ecm strategies on those cars that do some wonky things and that method generally works to clear everything out.

Also there was some other weird things it would do that has also stopped. When we’re both off duty next month hopefully make it to the track.

 

[SHOamBroke]

OK for months this car has been kicking everyones @SS but today SHE RAN

Here is what we did

1) returned to stock run file
2) KAM cleared
3) battery ground removed, ground lead jumpered to positive lead for probably 10 min
4) reload GHT E30
5) put Four additional fat ******** in and got in to 6th gear as early as possible and went WOT to 80mph several times. Once was up a pretty good grade.
6) It all works, shifts good and OAR is -1.0, boost is 15 lbs

car feels really strong

(now I don't fill guilty for talking him into getting one)

Ok so you took the negative terminal off the battery and then connected it to the positive while it was still connected to the battery? I’ve been having this STUPID knock reading under light load at 55mph and it’s killing what could be a phenomenal car. Just verifying cause I’m willing to try anything at this point.

 

[Tyrone Beasly]

His car is a ******* child but that did work and if I remember right his seat memory recall worked after that too. Usually those phantom knock readings are from something physically making contact somewhere. Knock sensors are literally microphones listening for pinging something loose or jiggling thats metallic can cause that.

 

[SHOamBroke]

His car is a ******* child but that did work and if I remember right his seat memory recall worked after that too. Usually those phantom knock readings are from something physically making contact somewhere. Knock sensors are literally microphones listening for pinging something loose or jiggling thats metallic can cause that.

It’s funny you say that because I have a high pitch ting noise from my resonator but when it’s making the annoying sounds the reading never reflect it so I just kinda ignore that. My cars killing me. I love it and hate it. I just want it to run like it should

 

[SeanDev]

Ok so you took the negative terminal off the battery and then connected it to the positive while it was still connected to the battery? I’ve been having this STUPID knock reading under light load at 55mph and it’s killing what could be a phenomenal car. Just verifying cause I’m willing to try anything at this point.

It's a good trick and it works. By removing the negative cable, then jumping negative cable to positive on battery for 10-20min you effectively drain all capacitors. After you reconnect negative to battery it's best to start the car and let it sit there and run with no HVAC for at least 15-20min, during this time it's resetting the Throttle Position Sensor and will re-learn, to put it simply, how to idle again.