Too many codes to list....but I will anyway

[dastuph]

The cars running roughly and sometimes sounds as if it will die but doesn't. We ran KOEO and KOER testing process and got the following codes:

111 - System checks OK
116 - (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
136 - (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
167 - (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
172 - (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
214 - (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
225 - (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
332 - (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE

I got these definitions from this link http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm

Any suggestions on where the **** to start would be greatly appreciated.....

Thanks in advance.

 

[LJRuddy]

116 - (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT Make sure your car is warmed up enough before you try to pull codes.

167 - (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS When you goose the engine, make sure you floor the throttle for like a half a second. You likely didnt hit the pedal enough

225 - (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS Forget about it!

136 - (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
172 - (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control I would imagine that you need new O2 sensors? Correct me if i am wrong.

 

[TYSHO]

116 - (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
136 - (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
167 - (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
172 - (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
214 - (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
225 - (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
332 - (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE

116 - Will show up if you do not let the car warm up and reach operating temp
136 - Bad/Old sensor
167 - Ignore, you forgot to perform the throttle test at the beginning
172 - Bad/Old sensor
214 - Usually a faulty crank sensor [edit: my fault, cam sensor as described by sdpatt ]
332 - Search that number and try cleaning the ports that you should be able to find pics of. If it's not that, there's more info on what it can be in the search

 

[sdpatt]

If both the left and right O2 sensors are showing the same lean code, then there is likely a problem causing a lean condition. The O2 sensors should be replaced every 60,000 miles and may be old, but I'll bet that there is another problem resulting in the lean code. It cold be a vacuum leak or an erroneous MAF. Further investigation is required.

The 214 code indicates that the CID (cylinder identification) sensor in the passenger side of the rear bank exhaust camshaft has faulted at least once. As it faults more frequently, youmay experience engine bucking while driving and ugly starts. This sensor is fairly inexpensive (around $30) and can be installed without removing any major engine parts.

The 332 code usually is the result of clogged "nostrils" in the intake manifold. There are topics with pictures showing what they look like and where you can rather simply access them.

 

[dastuph]

If both the left and right O2 sensors are showing the same lean code, then there is likely a problem causing a lean condition. The O2 sensors should be replaced every 60,000 miles and may be old, but I'll bet that there is another problem resulting in the lean code. It cold be a vacuum leak or an erroneous MAF. Further investigation is required.

The 214 code indicates that the CID (cylinder identification) sensor in the passenger side of the rear bank exhaust camshaft has faulted at least once. As it faults more frequently, youmay experience engine bucking while driving and ugly starts. This sensor is fairly inexpensive (around $30) and can be installed without removing any major engine parts.

The 332 code usually is the result of clogged "nostrils" in the intake manifold. There are topics with pictures showing what they look like and where you can rather simply access them.

I bought this SHO with 175k and I have no idea what the maintenance history was on it. I mainly bought it because the interior/exterior where in unbelievably good shape. I figured that way when its broke down and sitting in my garage at least it'd look pretty

I replaced the water pump, CPS, front main seal, accesory belt, radiator hoses, alternator, and the radiator when I did the front 60k service and I replaced the plugs, plug wires, thermostat, and valve cover/plug well gaskets when I did the upper 60k.

I knew it was spitting out EGR valve codes for awhile now so today I put a new EGR valve and sensor on. I've got the o2 sensors but I guess I'll order a CID sensor and replace that as well. I know some of these parts might not 'need' to be replaced but I figure why not.....I plan on keeping it long term.

I'll post again once I get these things completed.

Thanks for the suggestions!!!

 

[SHOdownTN]

I bought this SHO with 175k and I have no idea what the maintenance history was on it. I mainly bought it because the interior/exterior where in unbelievably good shape. I figured that way when its broke down and sitting in my garage at least it'd look pretty

I replaced the water pump, CPS, front main seal, accesory belt, radiator hoses, alternator, and the radiator when I did the front 60k service and I replaced the plugs, plug wires, thermostat, and valve cover/plug well gaskets when I did the upper 60k.

I knew it was spitting out EGR valve codes for awhile now so today I put a new EGR valve and sensor on. I've got the o2 sensors but I guess I'll order a CID sensor and replace that as well. I know some of these parts might not 'need' to be replaced but I figure why not.....I plan on keeping it long term.

I'll post again once I get these things completed.

Thanks for the suggestions!!!

It will throw an egr code if those nostrils are cloged. I replaced the egr, and the egr sensor on the intake and still got the code. I replaced the o2's and still kept getting the code "Thought the o2's would help". Cleaned the nostrils, and they were clogged good. After spraying with cleaner and picking with a coat hanger I got them cleaned. Since then no more 332 code.
Wouldn't hurt to spray them with a burst of carb cleaner everyother oil change or 6 months to keep the crud down.

 

[dastuph]

If both the left and right O2 sensors are showing the same lean code, then there is likely a problem causing a lean condition. The O2 sensors should be replaced every 60,000 miles and may be old, but I'll bet that there is another problem resulting in the lean code. It cold be a vacuum leak or an erroneous MAF. Further investigation is required.

The 214 code indicates that the CID (cylinder identification) sensor in the passenger side of the rear bank exhaust camshaft has faulted at least once. As it faults more frequently, youmay experience engine bucking while driving and ugly starts. This sensor is fairly inexpensive (around $30) and can be installed without removing any major engine parts.

The 332 code usually is the result of clogged "nostrils" in the intake manifold. There are topics with pictures showing what they look like and where you can rather simply access them.

I've cleaned the intake, specifically the nostrils and the whole path the EGR flows down. I've also replaced the o2s today which eliminated the two codes pertaining to them. I have a new CID sensor coming in tommorrow morning so hopefully that'll take care of my 214 error. That leaves me with the following from the KOER procedure:

125 TP voltage was lower then expected - fuel control
336 PFE sensor signal is/was high

Could the 336 code be remaining from an high reading when all those passages where clogged up?? Is that what the explaination of 'is/was high' means?

Any suggestions on these last two would be great. You've all been a great help to me here.

Thanks