Sway Bar Qs

[Mossdahaus]

So I was just wondering what sway bar combo I should use...I will be mostly driving it on the street and not the track. I was considering the 22mm front (stock)/ 23mm rear or 24mm/25mm or 24/26mm. I have a FSTB and Eibachs with the SARC struts in hard mode full-time. I'm also considering ASFBs and would like spme imput on those too. Thanks

 

[Ishodu]

IIRC most people favor the 22 front 23 rear on a gen 3.

 

[Ict_Lx]

I will be installing the 24/26 combo when on my 97' as soon as it gets nice outside again. I had the same combo on my 96' SLO before my brother started driving it and I loved it. I didn't have a FSTB on that car but I did have Aluminum SFB's, Eibachs, and KYB struts. Car handled great on crappy, balding rubber.

 

[Porkchop]

I have the 24/26 on my car and on smooth roads is an awesome ride, though now I live in the city and its not so hot...

my car has a slightly :tee hee: built suspension with all the goodies. I like the 24/26 with my current setup. Best bit of advice, find someone with more or less the same mods to the car and take a drive, thats the only way you will tell if you will ultimatly like it or not.

 

[Mr. SHO]

I have the OE rear SFBs at all four corners, FSTB, 24mm front sway bar, and 25mm rear sway bar. Very stiff and neutral. Absolutely no oversteer, and just a hair of understeer that can be countered with the brake pedal. I like it, but if stiff isn't your thing, you could get similar balance from the OE 22mm front bar and a 23mm rear bar. Given the rough roads around here, that would be my first choice but I got ripped off for the 23mm bar I paid for so I had to go a different route.

 

[Mossdahaus]

Thank you for all your help. What is your guys thoughts on ASFB and/or rear subframe connectors? Should I do both? I love going through the back roads and twisties and would love just to have a "solid" car...

 

[stephen newberg]

I have the OE rear SFBs at all four corners, FSTB, 24mm front sway bar, and 25mm rear sway bar. Very stiff and neutral. Absolutely no oversteer, and just a hair of understeer that can be countered with the brake pedal. I like it, but if stiff isn't your thing, you could get similar balance from the OE 22mm front bar and a 23mm rear bar. Given the rough roads around here, that would be my first choice but I got ripped off for the 23mm bar I paid for so I had to go a different route.

Actually, having tried the thicker bars, I think this solution, that is the OEM bar in front and the 23mm in back, with added ASFB and a STB produce the best results. I am mainly into very good handling on curvy, and often uneven, back roads at high speeds, though, and do not care a lot about flatness going around a 90 degree corner in town. There are other ways to produce a stiff frame without at the same time loosening up the rear of the car, which is what happens as you go to even heavier rear bars. The stiff and stable box of the frame produced by adding in the ASFB and the STB seems to me optimal, and I have been very pleased with the results.

Of course, you also need really good tires, which, I regret to say, is never cheap.

pax, smn

 

[Mossdahaus]

What are these TPR bushing I've been seeing? Can I also get endlinks made with this TPR material? Where do I buy them? Thanks...So I think I'm going with the 22/23 with ASFB and rear subframe connectors. Should this wake up my car A LOT with my Eibachs and FSTB?

 

[Mr. SHO]

TPR = Thermoplastic Rubber

They replace regular rubber bushings, particularly on the sway bar-to-chassis connection, the rear end-links, and the rear strut rods.

Urethane and Polyurethane are harder than regular rubber, but they squeak unless lubed regularly.

TPR is harder than rubber, Urethane, and Polyurethane, and as an added bonus, it does not squeak.

The stock front endlinks are plastic. The only "upgrade" available is the Moog heavy duty endlinks, which are all steel, and have grease zerks. I say "upgrade" because they don't really improve performance, but they last longer.

The rear endlinks are a steel rod with threaded ends, and they do break pretty easily once they have seen some corrosion, especially with the added strain of a stiffer sway bar. Most of the universal aftermarket endlinks are much better. The best ones, I think, are the Moog heavy duty endlinks. They have TPR bushings.

Your "plan" sounds good to me.

 

[Mossdahaus]

So where do I find these TPR booshings at? And what length of a rear endlink do I need? Thanks

 

[Ict_Lx]

You can find them at Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com) or at RCM Automotive (http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive). Not sure which place is cheaper.

 

[Mossdahaus]

Does anyome know where I can find a set of these TPR busings for a 23mm rear bar? They have them for a 24/25mm and i think 21/22mm read, but no 23. Should I just use a bushing made for the 24/25mm bar? Or should I just get a regular replacement bushing and go with TPR endlinks? Thanks

 

[Ict_Lx]

I believe you have to get the 21/22mm ones and bore it out with a key hole saw. That's the only thing I have heard of.

 

[Mossdahaus]

Anyone else? I may try that and see how it goes. Thanks

 

[Porkchop]

www.rockauto.com

 

[godspunk32]

I've got the 24/26mm combo on my Gen III Sable, and I'm seriously contemplating going down to a 22mm front bar. The 24/26 combo has a little too much understeer for my liking, at least in my application. I love the way it handles, but I realized today, when I put my new Kumho's on my car, that the front end was a little too stiff, and with the FSTB that I'll have in the next week or so, it's only going to get stiffer.

The biggest thing when setting up your suspension is finding balance. You can go for the stiffest parts you can get, but if you want a neutrally handling car, stiffer all around isn't always the best. You really need to drive different setups to get a good handle on what you want your car to feel like.

On my car, I've got: 24/26mm combo with TPR bushings, Al subframe bushings, KYB struts, H&R springs, and will soon have a FSTB. It's taken me over a year to decide what I want my car to feel like.

The best advice I can give you is to talk to people with SHOs in your area and find out what they're running, then try it out. Experimentation is key!

JR

 

[SHOZ123]

Your probably seeing the difference between 3.0L and 3.4L motors weight. The 24/26 combo on the V8 is great.

Be sure to use collars on the front bar if going away from an OEM bar.

 

[99V8SHO]

I still have the 24mm front bar in the garage waiting to install. Other than that I have the exact same setup as Porkchop. 26mm bar out back with the upgraded endlinks, TPR bushings, and Roush lowering springs. I find this to be a nice combination, however sometimes I feel that it is a bit too easy to whip the rear around without any brake input. Other than that this setup is pretty sticky on the road. One of these days I will get around to throwing that front bar in.

 

[stephen newberg]

Actually, I agree with JR and Roman. In combination with the other suspension changes, I found the 26mm rear too much. This all does, however, vary with personal taste and what you are trying to accomplish. I think his suggestion of try it out is the best advise, just do not get wedded to anything simply because it is in. Taking it back out only costs time, and there is no single 'right' answer. The only way to find out what you personally like best in a suspension for your particular driving requirements is to experiment.

pax, smn

 

[Porkchop]

I still have the 24mm front bar in the garage waiting to install. Other than that I have the exact same setup as Porkchop. 26mm bar out back with the upgraded endlinks, TPR bushings, and Roush lowering springs. I find this to be a nice combination, however sometimes I feel that it is a bit too easy to whip the rear around without any brake input. Other than that this setup is pretty sticky on the road. One of these days I will get around to throwing that front bar in.

Cheers bro!

I have found that its VERY hard to whip the back end around on dry or even rain soaked roadways with the 24/26 bars. I HAVE driven romans car after we installed the lowering springs and I can see how it was easy to do that. Right now though my car is super neutral in the corners, the only thing that makes the back end jump a little are the road expansion joints on corners. Other than that, with the right driving skill this is the best setup money can buy (and in my case, did buy ) (FYI my suspension mod list includes: Roush springs (discontinued), KYB struts, 24/26 swaybars, moog front endlings, shortened rear HD endlinks, FSTB, ALSFB's, TPR front and rear sway bar bushings, and a good set of tires) So you can see my ride will be different from Mr. Newberg, Roman, Godspunk, etc.

Mr. Newberg is correct though. There are many members here that say one setup is the best over the other, but the only way to find out what is best for YOU is to drive these vehicles.

If you are making any plans to attend the convention, this is the best time to get feedback from people and drive different setups.

Good luck!