RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
I cannot get the strut to come loose of the spindle. i have all the bolts out and no matter what I try it just stays clamped in there. What do I do?
Strut removal problem
- Thread starter RiceeatingSHO
- Start date
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NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
use a cold chisel to spread the pinch point.
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
And what else could also be used???
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
1.) LARGE LARGE LARGE amounts of PB blaster.
2.) A large flathead screwdriver or small chisel/crowbar to spread the pinch joint.
3.) A hammer, to knock the knuckle off the strut. Bang repeatedly.
P.S. if you're still having problems, take the LCA out of the knuckle. This will give you some more room.
2.) A large flathead screwdriver or small chisel/crowbar to spread the pinch joint.
3.) A hammer, to knock the knuckle off the strut. Bang repeatedly.
P.S. if you're still having problems, take the LCA out of the knuckle. This will give you some more room.
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
I worry about the brake hose...I guess I could put a board beneath the rotor. I'll try this tomorrow. Thanks guys. This forum never fails me.
I think you'll be OK...the LCA will keep it from going too far...you could just free the line a bit
Electricat
New Member
To add one more option to Hawkeye's list...
The end of the tire tool in your trunk that is pointy, for popping the center caps.
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
That's what I was trying to use but I always get frustrated after dark so I gave up.
johndallara
Active Member
strut removal
hey, you can do it. I did this recently when putting a spacer in at the top to fix the "strut groan" problem.
with the LCA still attached, loosen the top bolts on the tower, and of course the front end-link un-attached. then use something to place opening torque on the back side of the knuckle-to-strut thing. best item for pounding is a 6lb hammer, whack-whack-whack w/safety glasses on. this will gradually work the strut out. with the LCA still attached, you can put a few cinder blocks under the assembly to keep if from dropping.
last few inches are tough, but it comes out. don't put alot of stress on the halfshaft, but remember it is designed to move up-down in normal function of the strut.
JD
hey, you can do it. I did this recently when putting a spacer in at the top to fix the "strut groan" problem.
with the LCA still attached, loosen the top bolts on the tower, and of course the front end-link un-attached. then use something to place opening torque on the back side of the knuckle-to-strut thing. best item for pounding is a 6lb hammer, whack-whack-whack w/safety glasses on. this will gradually work the strut out. with the LCA still attached, you can put a few cinder blocks under the assembly to keep if from dropping.
last few inches are tough, but it comes out. don't put alot of stress on the halfshaft, but remember it is designed to move up-down in normal function of the strut.
JD
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Yeah, that halfshaft will move amazing amounts straight up and down... but pull that sucker out a half inch and it's toast. Found that out the hard way!
This is why I try to leave the LCA in if possible; it prevents the CV axle from pulling out and getting destroyed.
Unfortunately, this job is really hard to do by yourself. It isn't quite as bad on the "sucks with one guy" meter as a hood replacement, but a second guy comes in really handy - if only to force the LCA down with a prybar.
You will virtually need a second man to get it back in; that knuckle just flops around wihtout the strut in it, and you will have a bear of a time getting the strut back in it.
Don't feel bad; the suspension on this car sucks azz to work on. I've had a few honda owning friends help me over the years, and their reactions to doing the suspension have been variations on a theme: "Who the f*#% designed this crap!?"
Hondas are way easier to work on, I gotta say.
This is why I try to leave the LCA in if possible; it prevents the CV axle from pulling out and getting destroyed.
Unfortunately, this job is really hard to do by yourself. It isn't quite as bad on the "sucks with one guy" meter as a hood replacement, but a second guy comes in really handy - if only to force the LCA down with a prybar.
You will virtually need a second man to get it back in; that knuckle just flops around wihtout the strut in it, and you will have a bear of a time getting the strut back in it.
Don't feel bad; the suspension on this car sucks azz to work on. I've had a few honda owning friends help me over the years, and their reactions to doing the suspension have been variations on a theme: "Who the f*#% designed this crap!?"
Hondas are way easier to work on, I gotta say.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
I have a tire iron that I cut off to about 5 inches. That, combined with a hammer, makes quick work of that socket.
Remove the caliper so you don't have to worry about the brake line.
Remove the caliper so you don't have to worry about the brake line.
Phoenix
SHOHOLIC
6ft solid steel bar between LCA and subframe. That never fails.
ManySHOs
[]=[] []
As someone else suggested, soak the outer edge of the strut with PB blaster where it meets the spindle. Allow the PB to run down inside the spindle.
This is what I just did; find a hardened piece of steel (I used a hardened steel washer) and insert it in the pinch gap once the pinch tab on the strut has cleared. Insert the pinch bolt backwards (in the threaded portion) and thread it through the spindle until it contacts the washer. Carefully (slowly) torque down on the bolt and tap down on the spindle. What you're doing is opening up the spindle. Don't go too crazy though. The spindles can only flex so much before they could crack.
Which brings up an interesting point I was pondering the other day - I wonder how much stress fatigue these spindles can take. Mine have ~ 160K on them and multiple installations and reinstallations that involve banging on them to remove them. I try to stick with a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer but I'd be lying if I said I didn't use a hammer a few times when the spindles weren't budging at all.
By the way, are you doing fronts or rears? For the fronts, I leave the LCA pinch bolt in but unbolt everything else that's attached to the spindle. I use a spare jack stand to prop up or hold the spindle in a strategic fashion that I cannot describe. Don't knock it off the stand as the brake line does not enjoy being treated like a bungee cord.
For the rears, you'll need to unbolt the rear control arms and tension strut rod. To line it back up, you'll need to use your jack under the spindle to get the nut and outer bushing back onto the TSR. You'll most likely need to use the jack under all four spindles to slide them up onto the new struts. Make sure the pinch tabs are aligned with the gaps when you do. Visually check the pinch bolt hole to see if the hole in the tab is lined up with the hole in the strut tab. As soon as it is, insert the bolt. Make sure that you have jack stands under the car at all times. When you jack up on the spindle, you may lift the car before the strut falls into place. It's unsettling at first but if you have stands under the car you should be ok. (You should only be lifting it an inch or so; if you're lifting it more than that, something isn't aligned properly).
Ian
This is what I just did; find a hardened piece of steel (I used a hardened steel washer) and insert it in the pinch gap once the pinch tab on the strut has cleared. Insert the pinch bolt backwards (in the threaded portion) and thread it through the spindle until it contacts the washer. Carefully (slowly) torque down on the bolt and tap down on the spindle. What you're doing is opening up the spindle. Don't go too crazy though. The spindles can only flex so much before they could crack.
Which brings up an interesting point I was pondering the other day - I wonder how much stress fatigue these spindles can take. Mine have ~ 160K on them and multiple installations and reinstallations that involve banging on them to remove them. I try to stick with a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer but I'd be lying if I said I didn't use a hammer a few times when the spindles weren't budging at all.
By the way, are you doing fronts or rears? For the fronts, I leave the LCA pinch bolt in but unbolt everything else that's attached to the spindle. I use a spare jack stand to prop up or hold the spindle in a strategic fashion that I cannot describe. Don't knock it off the stand as the brake line does not enjoy being treated like a bungee cord.
For the rears, you'll need to unbolt the rear control arms and tension strut rod. To line it back up, you'll need to use your jack under the spindle to get the nut and outer bushing back onto the TSR. You'll most likely need to use the jack under all four spindles to slide them up onto the new struts. Make sure the pinch tabs are aligned with the gaps when you do. Visually check the pinch bolt hole to see if the hole in the tab is lined up with the hole in the strut tab. As soon as it is, insert the bolt. Make sure that you have jack stands under the car at all times. When you jack up on the spindle, you may lift the car before the strut falls into place. It's unsettling at first but if you have stands under the car you should be ok. (You should only be lifting it an inch or so; if you're lifting it more than that, something isn't aligned properly).
Ian
ManySHOs
[]=[] []
Yes, that too. However, it failed me last week when I installed the coilovers. This is the first time that I couldn't get the spindles off the car. It was crazy.
Ian
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
for the fronts, grab a 1/2" breaker bar and an assortment of deep sockets. place a socket with bar attached next to the strut tube so the open end of the socket is resting on the narrow top edge of the steering knuckle. choose the length of socket so the bar can contact the stabilizer link mounting tab just up the shaft of the bar, not directly on the head. a 100 lb pull on the handle yields over 1000 pushing the socket down. it will only move the knuckle down about 1/4", but thats enough to break the rust's grip.
to try to explain it a bit differently,,,
the bar is a horizontal lever, with the pivot point/fulcrum being about 1"from the head, and contacting the link mounting tab. think of the socket as a pushrod, as the head of the bar goes down, it pushes the socket/pushrod down against the thin top edge of the knuckle. lifting on the handle causes the bar to rotate about the fulcrum and push down on the socket (or is that up against the tab?). the hardest part is having the right length socket. cheap,,and it works for the first 1/4" (buy hey, if you can get the first 1/4", then the rest is easy,,,,,right?
)
to try to explain it a bit differently,,,
the bar is a horizontal lever, with the pivot point/fulcrum being about 1"from the head, and contacting the link mounting tab. think of the socket as a pushrod, as the head of the bar goes down, it pushes the socket/pushrod down against the thin top edge of the knuckle. lifting on the handle causes the bar to rotate about the fulcrum and push down on the socket (or is that up against the tab?). the hardest part is having the right length socket. cheap,,and it works for the first 1/4" (buy hey, if you can get the first 1/4", then the rest is easy,,,,,right?
)hawkeye18
Sorta cares
has anybody ever told you that you talk (type?) too much, Perry? 
:theyareontome:
:theyareontome:pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
has anybody ever told you that you talk (type?) too much, Perry?
someone once tried to, they couldn't seem to get my attention
besides, I'm over 55 now, I just pretend I don't hear 'em
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Yeap - gray hair and a "huh?" reply is great, isn't it !
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