Strut and Spring Questions

[Izzmo]

I might be in the market for new struts and/or springs.. but first I need to know if they are even bad.

I went to Ford and had them do that 120.. or 200 or whatever the **** multi-point check bullcrap ( I doubt they check your whole car.. I swear it). They said my struts and springs looked good, but I'm doubting their expertise.

1) How do you know if a strut is bad? I looked on the net and to answer some questions that you guys may ask:
- No, my car does not bounce a lot after going over a bump
- No, my car does not sway (I have upgrade sway bars.. so this may be why my car down not bump or sway)

2) Should springs last the life of the car? I saw this on a couple other forum topics but was not sure if this statement was true or not.

3) If my struts are bad, what kind of struts should I get? It seems as if it will be between KYB or Monroe as I can't find Koni's anywhere.

4) Should I get just the strut or should I get the whole assembly (strut and spring)

5) If I'm going to replace the strut, do I need a new strut mount assembly, or can I use the one already on the car?


Thanks for any and all help.

 

[jmpSHO]

If your car isn't bouncing after a bump and they are not making any noice I would leave them alone. If you do replace them it is definately a good idea to replace all strut mounts and the front bearing plates. As for what kind of struts to get that depends on how much money you are willing to spend. I don't own a Gen 3 anymore so I am not sure what is available for the 96-99 SHOs but I have heard of people using 2000 Taurus struts and depending on the miles of your car I would also replace the springs too.

 

[Ian Macoomb]

If you're going to pay someone to replace the parts you might as well replace the strut mounts and bearings (bearing on the front only). If the car sees salt then it's also a good idea to replace the springs too. Also replace spings if you've got saggy ass syndrome.

 

[Izzmo]

Well, I'm hoping to do them myself as I have the tools to do it and I don't think it's that hard of a job.

My car does see salt, but I try to wash it weekly (as for the previous owners.. not sure unfortunately). I have been hearing a little noise from the rear struts lately.. not sure if it's just the coldness of winter affecting them or not though.

Any input on what type of struts I should get (if I need them)?

 

[shonuffmine]

Take a look at these,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...witem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182 I prefer monroe sensa tracs n moog cargos springs but these are a **** of a deal

 

[Izzmo]

Hmm.. a) they are for a gen1/2, b) the listing has ended.

That is one **** of a deal though

 

[shonuffmine]

from what i have read n seen i thought they were all the same from 1986-2007 just the spring rates were different.If i.m wrong someone let me know,i always am willing to learn something new!

 

[Izzmo]

Are you sure? I don't believe a gen2 strut will fit in a gen3 (or 4).. correct me if I'm wrong though.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you still have the SARC in use then it is hard to tell if the struts are worn. IMHO the rear struts will probably be good forever and not need replacing until the springs break.

In the front if the ride seems too bouncy and removing the SARC fuse gives you a better ride without being too harsh then the fronts need replacing. You can get a lot more miles out of the front struts if when worn and indicated like this by unplugging the front struts.

This keeps the VAPS active and the rear struts will still be controlled by the SARC module. The fronts will just have the valving reduced and be in hard mode all the time. But with them leaking internally this will soften the hard ride characteristic.

 

[stephen newberg]

Are you sure? I don't believe a gen2 strut will fit in a gen3 (or 4).. correct me if I'm wrong though.

You are not wrong. The Gen III struts are unique to that version.

You test a strut the same way you test a shock. Get at a corner and push hard down several times as the strut tries to re-level the car and then step away. If the car re-levels and basically stops moving in one cycle, the strut is just fine. It is not unusual for well made struts to last a very, very long time.

Springs, again if of any original quality, degrade slowly or almost not at all. The most common thing to happen will be one will outright break, rather than lose its 'spring' and as a result, they really do not need to be replaced often or at all unless you are trying to change the characteristics of the handling of the car or replacing an outright broken failure mode.

pax, smn

 

[SHOZ123]

With the SARC it is very hard to test the struts. Just try bouncing with the key on then try with the key off. You will see that no matter what with the key off the car will barely bounce at all. Even if the struts are bad. This is what I was alluding too about extending the life of the worn struts by disconnecting them.

it would be safe to say that with over 100k miles they are noticeably worn.

 

[stephen newberg]

I agree, Paul, you should test the front struts with the electronics engaged if you want a better idea of what is happening. For the rears, it does not matter.

As per wear and miles traveled, I think it varies a lot, mainly depending on the type of roads involved. I would not use any cut off number as an indicator, but if you have the spare funds to just replace then all at 100k, it certainly cannot hurt.

pax, smn

 

[Izzmo]

I have tried this and.. well it doesn't bounce at all, with SARC engaged. With it disengaged.. well it won't move period.. I sat on the fender and tried moving around slightly and it didn't budge, either side.

This would indicate they are fine.. and when I go over a speed bump I get that satisfying "pss" sound as they decompress and it basically goes back to the original height with no bounce after the bump.

I have 225/45/R18's for tires.. plus 28mm rear and 26mm SB's.. so could this just be a characteristic of the ride, to feel every bump, nook and cranny of the road?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

We have Gen3 Konis here: SHO Source

We do also offer Selex struts: SHO Source

We do also have Monroe and KYB's. They are different for Gen3/4. We have had some KYB's last only a year or so. FYI

 

[stephen newberg]

I have tried this and.. well it doesn't bounce at all, with SARC engaged. With it disengaged.. well it won't move period.. I sat on the fender and tried moving around slightly and it didn't budge, either side.

This would indicate they are fine.. and when I go over a speed bump I get that satisfying "pss" sound as they decompress and it basically goes back to the original height with no bounce after the bump.

I have 225/45/R18's for tires.. plus 28mm rear and 26mm SB's.. so could this just be a characteristic of the ride, to feel every bump, nook and cranny of the road?

From your description, I suspect your struts are just fine. With those tires & wheels you will have just about zero sidewall compliance and I would expect the SARCs to be in full hard all the time, so feeling most everything would be a normal result, even with the struts brand new.

pax, smn

 

[Izzmo]

Cool, thanks for all the information, this helped greatly!

 

[Eastcoast SHO]

from what i have heard, and experienced is the rear springs are prone to breaking mine did that, i replaced the rears with motorcraft struts and stock springs, for now until i can save up for the konis and intrax combo