Rear toe adjusters by the hubs?

[SHOman_92]

Long time lurker, first time poster...

I just completed a body swap between my rusted out '92 and a nearly rust free '95. The rear wheels on the '95 are a little loose (toe-wise) because the eccentric bearings are sloppy in the trailing arms. I intend to replace them so that I can align it and get it on the road. However, the bushings on rockauto's site are supposed to mount inward. My trailing arms are apparently mounted backwards so that the eccentric bushings are by the hubs. Is there any good reason someone would do this or was the previous owner just a hack?

Thanks,
Ben

 

[SHOman_92]

So I just took a look at my current daily driver '95 (yes a different one) and noticed that it has very large eccentric bushings on the rearward trailing arms at the mount in the center of the car. These are substantially larger than the roughly 1.5" diameter eccentric bushings on the body swap '95 by the wheels. I did not check the body swap '95 for these inward adjusters, but given the difference in design, I am guessing that the smaller outboard adjusters were added for additional adjustability. The eccentric part is made of a hard plastic material. Can anyone tell me if the outboard toe bushings were just a modification to the existing trailing arms? They are also only on the rearward arms...

Wait a minute...

Maybe the original adjusters are frozen with rust and these were added to adjust toe. That may make sense. I bought it locally in Ohio.

I would post pictures but the body swap is being done in my brother's barn 30 minutes away.

 

[pjtoledo]

from the factory there are only 2 toe adjusters, one each at the inboard end of the rear arms. there were several kits then to add more toe adjustment including replacing the entire arms with adjustably units. try the SHOsource for what's available now.
I went to a salvage yard and acquired a bunch of rear arms, then pressed the adjustable bushings out and installed then at all ends of my arms.

 

[rubydist]

btw, even though the factory specs allow some toe out on the rear, do not set it up that way - I have seen irregular tire wear on every one that I have seen that did not have zero or toe in on the rear.

 

[SHOman_92]

Thanks, guys! Just got her straightened out (pun intended). I set the rear toe at 0.00 on both sides. Front at -0.10 on both sides. The front left is out of spec in camber at -1.7 degrees. I assume the only solution for front camber adjustments is to drill the spotwelds on the factory plate at the top of the strut tower. I think I will worry about that another day. These tires are pretty well shot anyways. Thanks again!