Inner tie rod end repair?

[sdpatt]

I just found there to be a bit of play in the driver's side inner tie rod end of the recently installed (Feb 1, 2002), remanufactured, non-VAPS steering rack on my 1991 SHO. The passenger side is tight and both outer tie rod ends are relatively new Moog greaseables. The installation of the steering rack was the job on the car that I have said that I would least like to repeat. I should have knocked on wood. Murphy's Law is at work here I can tell.

I have looked at the drawing in the service manual of the connection of the inner tie rod end to the steering rack assembly and see that it is screwed on and locked in place by a coiled pin. Is there any chance that the pin has come out and the screw fitting has come loose and I can return the connection to its normal snugness by tightening and re-pinning the rod end? Wouldn't they replace the tie rods on the remanufactured units since these are wear items?

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[LaTechSHO]

scott, i'll check into this further at work tomorrow..or try.... but i believe that there are two designs on the inner ends.... the original one ford designed used the pin you speak of... however either moog or trw..probably moog redesigned it and i forget how it was kept in place.... as i said.. i'll do some checking tomorrow...

Louis

 

[sdpatt]

I must chastise myself for not adequately searching the Forum's archives before posting this topic. I have found a great deal of helpful information in the Forum and in the SHOtimes site. I think I would rather spend a small amount of cash for a new inner tie rod end and the alignment than have to replace the entire, lifetime warranted, steering rack.

 

[sdpatt]

I replaced the tie rod with the Moog EV127 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. It took about an hour from wheels up to wheels back on the ground - a fairly simple job. I borrowed the tie rod tool that looks like a tube with a set screw on the end to grasp the nut on the inner mount. The old nut did not have a locking device so I hope it was at least Loctited. The old tie rod was quite loose at the inner ball and socket and was definitely in need of replacement.

Replacing the tie rod and its included inner joint (previously called inner tie rod end) corrected the clunk that I was hearing. The inside end of the tie rod is a ball that fits into the socket in the nut. The nut screws onto the end of the steering rack. There really isn't an inner tie rod end since it is not separate from the tie rod itself. The replacement of the tie rod sure beats replacing the rack. By a large margin of effort.

O'Reilly was the source of the A1 Cardone steering rack and I talked to them about reimbursing me for the tie rod since the rack has a lifetime warranty. I'd let them work it out with A1 Cardone.

On the road again....

 

[LaTechSHO]

good to hear you got everything squared away.... and as i'm sure you aleady know ... trw did the redesign on the inner tie rod ends... supposed to be loctited.... moog still has the rivet you put in to hold it in place

and i'm sure o'reilly will make it right with your new tie rod

 

[sdpatt]

I used Loctite and the rivet along with the 60 lb-ft of torque that was in the middle of the recommended range. It was a very straightforward task with the right tools. There was also a helpful amount of information in the SHOtimes site and the Forum to prepare me for the service.

 

[EZ4U2ENVY]

Got any pictures scott- i want to replace them as well but kinda not to sure what to do- i have done a water pump on my car but doing tierods kinda scare me more... since i done my ball joint and that didnt go so well im not to sure if i can do tie rods and inner tie rods- is there any other advice you can give me that would help- thanx in advance

 

[sdpatt]

Here are a few shots of the tie rod and the inner coupling. To reach this part, you only have to remove the clamp and the bellows on the inner joint. To remove the boot from the tie rod, yo also have to remove the outer tie rod end and the jam nut. The tie rod removal tool was very helpful in loosening the coupling nut. The Moog EV127 tie rod came with very good instructions for the removal and installation of the tie rods. I chose to use Locktite and the supplied rivet to ensure the nut stayed secure.

I believe that the threaded insert in the nut backed away from the ball allowing it to become loose. This was allowed because there was no locking mechanism other than maybe Loctite to preven the entire nut from moving. There were two indentions in the nut that looked as if they were intended to prevent the insert from rotating, but they may not have been sufficient to do their job. I think that was the problem with the original Ford tie rods that allowed them to fail prematurely and catastophically in some cases. Check those suspension noises and don't wait for the hammer to fall when something breaks in a big way.

Full length of the tie rod and its inner coupling with outer tie rod end and lock nut removed.

Close-up of the ball and socket with grease removed. There was about a 1/32" of play in the ball joint.

A close-up of the threaded portion of the nut that attaches to the steering rack. The rack was well exposed with the steering turned full lock.

 

[shojuan]

Scott,

Knowing you, I'm sure you found about the best price you could on the Moog inner tie rod ends. I know I need to replace my outers and want greaseables, so will go with the Moogs. Maybe I should do my inners at the same time just to be safe. Please share, where did you get your moog tie rod ends and how much?

Rick

 

[projectSHO89]

shojuan,

The best way to check the inner TRE is as follows:

Remove the outer TRE from the knuckle.

A good inner TRE will require from 2 to 10 pounds of force, exerted on the TRE shaft, in order to move around.

A worn inner TRE will flop down under its own weight.

A REALLY worn inner tie rod end will have discernable movement in the ball joint when you push and pull on the TRE shaft.

A REALLY, REALLY worn inner TRE will actually pop when you turn the stearing wheel back and forth, for example, in a parking lot or a tight, slow speed maneuver.

Checking the outer TRE on the car can be done by holding your hand wrapped around the joint while someone else moves the steerng wheel from side to side. You will feel the movement if it's really worn. You can also raise the wheel off the ground, grab it a 3 and 9 o'clock, and see if there is any movement in the wheel while pushing and pulling. Just be aware that bad outer TREs can easily mask an also bad inner TRE when checked this way. (Thanks, Meineke, for not checking closer on that state inspection...!)

TREs cost from 17 to 19 bucks each at AutoZone and around 15 to 25 bucks each from O'Reilly's.

Steve
89

<small>[ September 17, 2002, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Thanks Steve for that great procedure for checking the inners! I'll try the hand wrap method for checking the outers. The rubber doesn't look too good on those anyways and I figure it's about time to replace 'em.

Rick

 

[sdpatt]

Another check for the inner ends is with the outer end disconnected. It should take about 10 pounds of force at the end of the tie rod to move the ball joint. This information was available onthe SHOtimes site. If the tie rod falls under its own weight, it is definitely time for a new tie rod.

I actually didn't shop around too much since I wanted to take care of this quickly. I visited my two favorite auto parts sites with local outlets: AutoZone and O'Reilly. Each had a cheaper brand than the Moog for about $12 or $14, but I went with the name of quality and paid $24 at O'Reilly. If you are replacing the outers and the inners are even suspect, it is not much extra effort to change them also.

Remember that the inner joint is part of the tie rod itself and you would therefore be replacing everything between the rack end and the steering knuckle.

 

[pete c]

Haven't done tie rods on the sho, but, I did them on my slo and I replaced the entire tie rod (AZ about 40 bucks a side, if I remember right). I'm sure these were cheapo tierods, but, my philosophy is, with a lifetime warantee get the cheap stuff, so long as a great deal of labor is not involved. Things like clutch pressure plates I will not buy from AZ. The replacement tierods from AZ used a set screw with loctite on it to keep it from moving and the outter end did have a grease fitting.

So, for those of you that have yet to do TREs, my advice is replace the whole damn thing with the cheap AZ lifetime warantee units and be done with having to buy another end or boot for as long as you own the car.

 

[LaTechSHO]

40 bucks a side is very high...regardless of warranty

o'reilly sells the MOOG for roughly 35 and the autodrive version (manufactured by moog) also with a LIFETIME warranty for under or right at 20 bucks a side....

Louis

 

[Hubes]

what is a symptos of bad tie rods? my car on the highway, with the steering wheel turned slightly to the right does this weird swerve. it swerves one way and then the oppsite way, kind of like a wobbling feeling. any suggestions. could it be a ball joint on that side?

 

[projectSHO89]

what is a symptoms of bad tie rods?

Excessive play in steering is the usual one. This can be characterized by excessive wandering of the front end while driving. Also, popping noises in the steering while making slow speed (or stationary) steering maneuvers. See my first post in this thread on how to test TREs.

To test for worn ball joints, raise the wheel off the ground, grasp the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock positions, push and pull on the tire, and try to see if the tire rocks. If it does, have an assistant move the tire while you look for movement in the ball joint. If there is any movement, replace the lower control arm (which contains the ball joint).

Steve
89

 

[Hubes]

i replaced my driver's side ball join about 2 months ago when i did my spring/struts. do you think my woes on the highway may result from my tie rod on my passenger side? if so i may replace the ball joint on that side also. i do occasioanlyl hear a popping noise when turning the wheel at slow speeds liek pulling in and out of a parkign spot, but not every time. i just thikn that it is really weird that when i am on the highway with the steerign wheel turned to the right the carwobbles/swerves one way and then back. it is just annoying when driving too on the highway. how many hours labor do i expect to replace the tie rods and if so shall i get an alignment immediately after. i just got one about 1 month ago.

 

[projectSHO89]

Perform the diagnostic checks I posted. Report back with your findings.

I can't do this by osmosis.

Steve