I did a thing ...

[SHO4Peachie]

I said Goodbye to my ‘13 SHO on the 12th of December. It was bitter sweet as she had been the most Amazing, Gorgeous, Fastest, ETC, Favorite 4-door car I’ve ever owned always received compliments on the Deep Impact Blue less than a year to pay-off

HOWEVER, found a '16 SHO approx 34k miles, Ford Certified at the right price with a great warranty.

To me the '13 drove much smoother & tighter as the '16 has me all over the road. I just need to slow down & learn her style.

Here’s the new SHO4ME

 

[rubydist]

Congrats!

I find that the factory alignment specs are way to broad, and need to be in the right part of the range to handle and drive properly. I'm betting that is your new car's issue. And, some tires are much more sensitive to alignment than others.

 

[luigisho]

Change those driveline fluids. Warranty for the win!

 

[yaycandy]

My 15' sho is all over the road compared to the 13' I had. My 13' had PP option with tighter steering and my 15' has no PP option so the steering is a good bit lighter and floaty. But Forscan fixed that by putting the PP steering program into the no PP steering.

 

[SHO4Peachie]

You guys are the best - Thanks for the info.

 

[krewat]

From someone who has had a 2013, 2016, and now a 2018, all with the PP, I can say:

The 2016 was weird. The rear-end was "squirrelly" to me. At the time, I just drove it and didn't really question it.

Then I got my 2018, and everything was right with the world again. I can't put my finger on it, but something in the 2016 in the rear was "soft" like the bushings, or shocks, I dunno. It certainly wasn't the tires, same ones as the 2013 had, Goodyear F1's, and I kept an eye on the inflation.

But I had this odd feeling of not really "knowing" what the rear end was doing in the turns, like it was lighter.

Everything else, if I closed my eyes, I'd never know if I was driving the '13, '16, or the '18 - they all acted the same except that weird difference in the 2016.

Looking back at it, it could have been the alignment. Although it did have those non-forged toe links in the back.

 

[luigisho]

rear swaybar specs different?

 

[Jordan_R]

16 they made some motor changes. Maybe they made some changes elsewhere also?

 

[SHO4Peachie]

From someone who has had a 2013, 2016, and now a 2018, all with the PP, I can say:

The 2016 was weird. The rear-end was "squirrelly" to me. At the time, I just drove it and didn't really question it.

Then I got my 2018, and everything was right with the world again. I can't put my finger on it, but something in the 2016 in the rear was "soft" like the bushings, or shocks, I dunno. It certainly wasn't the tires, same ones as the 2013 had, Goodyear F1's, and I kept an eye on the inflation.

But I had this odd feeling of not really "knowing" what the rear end was doing in the turns, like it was lighter.

Everything else, if I closed my eyes, I'd never know if I was driving the '13, '16, or the '18 - they all acted the same except that weird difference in the 2016.

Looking back at it, it could have been the alignment. Although it did have those non-forged toe links in the back.

Yes - ‘lighter’
It feels like it wants to slide off the road especially in turns. My sister has an Edge Sport & describes the same feeling.
Between my ‘10 PP (didn’t realize she was a PP or anything about PP until I traded her in), ‘13 non-PP & this ‘16 non-PP, the ‘10 was the best.

So what would be the correct technical words/terms/phrase to use if I take her to a shop?

Thanks in Advance

 

[AlexS925]

Hey that spec looks familiar

 

[yaycandy]

I think PP and non PP have sway bar differences. And maybe between the years

 

[GotGrip?]

Oooo and the best color too (drk gry met), wish I would have never picked black

 

[rubydist]

If you believe the parts catalog, it looks like the rear suspension links and bushings were the same from 10-19.

 

[luigisho]

Some useful info here but incomplete regarding suspension differences and sway bar differences. Very few rear bar differences but mentions front sway bar difference in '16. I would hope this stuff is aggregated somewhere I'm not looking??
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/front-and-rear-sway-bar-upgrade.130609/

 

[JRV1631]

I got into my ‘16 from a ‘06 Impala SS. I liked the SHO ride in the sense that you could drive over a crater and barely notice. But it was a little mushy. I found that the H&R lowering springs made it ride much better.

 

[skyshadow07]

My 13 seems to track back and forth in the road but I have wide tires, I think that is what causes it.

 

[SHO4Peachie]

Oooo and the best color too (drk gry met), wish I would have never picked black

i love the Tuxedo Black but hard to keep clean. I’ve found lots of people love this color.

 

[SHO4Peachie]

Some useful info here but incomplete regarding suspension differences and sway bar differences. Very few rear bar differences but mentions front sway bar difference in '16. I would hope this stuff is aggregated somewhere I'm not looking??
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/front-and-rear-sway-bar-upgrade.130609/

Thanks for the info

 

[PaulTAutoX]

My 13 seems to track back and forth in the road but I have wide tires, I think that is what causes it.

Tracking back and forth is referred to as tramlining (originally from following train tracks in the road). It's more common the wider the tires you have, but it's also related to the spacing of the grooves in the pavement in areas where the DOT has put in rain grooving, and to what tires you have as different treads matter. Since the grooving isn't standardized, even within a single State often (certainly not here in Cali) tracking variations change from place to place.
Or if your ball joints are going out or tie rods are loose, that can cause it too.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Congrats!

I find that the factory alignment specs are way to broad, and need to be in the right part of the range to handle and drive properly. I'm betting that is your new car's issue. And, some tires are much more sensitive to alignment than others.

I was an automotive technician for a long time. Not only are the specs overly broad, if you use a generic big box tire shop, you usually don't get the greatest alignment. Once you mount the alignment heads you are not supposed to touch them. However, if you mount them, get your "current" numbers, adjust the toe so the steering wheel is straight and "bump" the alignment heads, you can make the printout all green. The wheel is straight and the red is all green so the customer is happy. The tech is done faster (same pay for the job if it takes you 15 minutes or 15 hours) and can grab his next ticket. The best thing to do is to find a performance shop that does alignments or a shop that pays hourly and not flat rate. Even better if you can see the work being done. The next thing to do is to ask the tech if they will set the machine to 1/2 spec. I know this was an option on the Hunter machines we used. It does exactly what it sounds like. If your toe spec is 0+/-1 degree, it is now 0+/-0.5 degree. This will ensure you are a lot closer to the "ideal" factory setting. Other options you can do are have custom specs or set them to the specs of another model. For example, the Front Caster and Rear Camber are different on the PI model. PP and non-PP are the same. Also, if you have lowered your car, plan on getting additional parts for the alignment such as camber bolts (other vehicles may use various camber/caster correction methods such as offset ball joints).