Drilling spot welds

[Liquid_force]

The car has been aligned twice since I put new tires on it 10-15k back.

Both times I had it aligned I had to go to a 2nd shop because the first ones told me they would have to drill the strut towers. One wanted to put in aftermarket plates at a cost of ~$350, the other just drill them for ~$160.
A different locally owned shop got it aligned, but they said "barely".
More recently I had the Ford facility align just the front end. I looked at the receipt after leaving and it said they could only get it close because the welds needed to be drilled.

Right front has been making some unpleasant rolling noise. I looked it over recently and saw that the inside edge is wearing unevenly.

So I guess I'm going to drill them.

I found myself a tool at harbor freight -- a similar version was recommended at Shotimes.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-95343.html

Shotimes recommendation -- P/N 85790 from here: http://www.spcalignment.com/buy-it-now

Basically - I'm curious what hang ups I can expect. W/O the cowl removed there is NO clearance for the back 4. Even with the cowl off I'm not anticipating a ton of working space. I have a 90 degree attachment for the drill if needed.

The struts can stay in, right? As long as I don't punch through the backing metal?

 

[SHOZ123]

You can disconnect the hood struts and raise the hood up so it is out of the way.

 

[Liquid_force]

You can disconnect the hood struts and raise the hood up so it is out of the way.

Thanks, I had found that suggestion in one of your earlier post and was planning to use it.

Well - I always find a way to make first time repairs/mods like this take twice as long and be twice as frustrating as they should so I will probably be back to explain/ask about all the problems nobody told me about.

 

[Shovert]

I just happen to notice this thread. I have been redoing a MGB. [rust and more rust] Body panel etc. I bought one of the spot weld drill bits shown and extra bits. Not using then. Bodyman showed me these and very effective. pilot point bits like these. Unsure of size you need. Maurice
http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/DeWALT-DW1220-5-16-Cobalt-Drill-Bit-Pilot-Point/78373/Cat/97

 

[shonuffmine]

When I was younger and worked in body shops ,we just use those stepped multi size bits you can buy at harbor freight for $10.Works great

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=step+drill+bit


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html

 

[newshofan]

Once I get mine running I have to this to mine. After new struts and inner tie rods after my curb incident she won't allign perfect. I was just going to use a regular metal bit. As long as you don't take all the weight off the car they won't shift or anything.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Spot weld cutters are the way to go. You don't have to drop the strut , and they cut the softer metal around the weld, as opposed to trying to drill right through the harder welded area.

 

[Phoenix]

I used that for the festiva , its straight foward and it performs good. I didnt get mine from HF though , I got it from a auto parts store.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I just used a regular drill bit when I did mine. I probably started small and worked up to it, but no issue and the drilling was clean.

 

[Liquid_force]

I drilled the 3 easily accessible ones on the driver's side.

I wondered this before I started drilling, and I'm still wondering...

Using this core type drill leaves the "core" behind - obviously. It seems this is going to impede the movement of the strut during alignment.

I tried to use a punch at an angle to pop it out, and a prying tool, but it's solid.
Am I going to have to use a standard bit to drill out the core?

 

[kevinspann]

I'd put the car on the ground, then take the nuts and plate off, and try to pop the spot welded area off.

 

[Liquid_force]

As expected, it took twice as long and was twice as frustrating as I was hoping it would be.

IMO - the old posts about how quick and easy this is are either professional mechanics (good ones) or full of it.

The very first step - removing the spring clips holding the cowl together -- I pulled the one off nearest the DS strut tower and it dropped into a perfectly sized slot behind the ST right near the FW never to be seen again -- great. Luckily I had a spare.

I had to remove the wipers to get the DS cowl off -- they were siezed onto the knurled/tapered seats -- shocker.
Then I spent a half hour trying to get the wiper motor assy out, and another 15 min or so to get it back in - which, in hindsight, I don't think I needed to take out.

The cuts themselves were the easy part. Maybe a 1/2 hr total, but my 3/8" hole saw left the core behind that I had to go back with a rotary tool and cut-off blade to remove which was another 1/2 hr.

Unfortunately - the strut bolts appear to be set for about as much positive camber as the holes allow and the point of doing this was to improve the excessive inner edge wear which I thought would be improved by adjusting camber toward the positive.

Oh well - I don't know anything about alignment. I hope someone can improve it.

 

[shonuffmine]

WOW guess I was talking out my ass when I made my suggestion,I done it 10 different ways n the step bit is the easiest. It cuts through the weld with ease and leaves the correct size hole and no residual material !
But **** it don't pay to listen to a old crusty grumpy bastard :laugh_ti:

 

[kevinspann]

Are you able to scan the sheets that show the alignment?

 

[Liquid_force]

But **** it don't pay to listen to a old crusty grumpy bastard :laugh_ti:

 

[Airborne]

I was having the same issue with getting the alignment close but not perfect, and was dreading drilling the spot welds. I went out and bought a stepped drill bit after reading this post. It cut through the welds like butter! I am glad I listened to the old crusty grumpy bastard.

 

[Liquid_force]

just out of curiousity -- if you're using a stepped bit, how do you keep from drilling through the strut towers, and the strut mount?

 

[Airborne]

just out of curiousity -- if you're using a stepped bit, how do you keep from drilling through the strut towers, and the strut mount?

I loosened the three strut bolts almost all the way but did not remove them completely. I jacked up that side and drilled the welds. blew out the shavings with compressed air. Lowered that side, tightened the three bolts. Then I did the other side. I am taking it to the alignment shop after I put on the 95 spindles. We will see then if I messed something up.

 

[shonuffmine]

^^^
That

 

[Liquid_force]

ah, I see.
That would work wouldn't it?

You're still removing material from the strut tower itself which I'd say is less than ideal at best.

A lot of time saved though.