Diagnostic Video

[RI-SHO]

Here is a vid after replacing knock sensor and CPS, does the same 'ole as before: http://www.RI-SHO.com/shop1.wmv (1.5MB - 46seconds)

The thumping sound at the end is some air getting throught to the muffs, what does it sound like to all of you guys?

Timing was not adjusted/checked due to it getting dark out.

Before all of this I also reicived this codes:

- 114
- 116
- 121
- 242 (read wrong I believe)
- 542

<small>[ October 23, 2002, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Edian, the first SHO I ever got was off by 5 teeth on the belt and sounded just like that. Sometimes it would even start and move, but it had NO power. From viewing the video, I'm confident it's your timing or a bent valve, but I'm not sure that you could bend a valve on this engine, unless a foreign object found it's way into the intake.

 

[projectSHO89]

Hook up the timing light to the #1 or # 5 wire and see where the white mark is hitting. With the SPOUT jumper pulled it should be around 10 degrees BTDC. Of course, if your camshafts are mistimed, this test won't reveal that. You will have to remove the upper timing belt cover to check that.

Steve

<small>[ October 23, 2002, 10:53 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[RI-SHO]

Where is the SPOUT jumper? And where can I buy this timing tool?

 

[luigisho]

The spout jumper is near the rear passenger side of the intake. It's in the area of alot of the other wires bundled bach there. You can identify it by looking for a black plastic connector with a grey plug in it. You'll know it when you see it. There's another one up front near the CCRM.

You can get a timing light at any autoparts store or Sears. Maybe AutoZone has one in the loan-a-tool program?

<small>[ October 23, 2002, 11:24 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[RI-SHO]

So the timing light tool will only turn on if its ******** 10degrees?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

The timing light is like a gun. you pull the trigger and it emits strobe that lights every time the plug fires. It will always work, but won't be effective if the cams are off.

 

[RI-SHO]

If my cams are off with the SPOUT unplugged the light itself will not work?

 

[AutoSHO]

RI-SHO:
If my cams are off with the SPOUT unplugged the light itself will not work?

The light only checks spark timing. It has nothing to do with where the cams are. It picks up the voltage when the plug wire fires and emits a strobe light at the same interval. It will always work, regardless of spout, cams, etc. The only reason it wouldn't work is if you had some sort of ignition problem (CPS, etc..). Sounds like cam timing is off to me too, but time will tell!

 

[Andrew Tilson]

when my belt jumped my car sounded very much like that, but wouldn't ever start

 

[RI-SHO]

Andrew Tilson:
when my belt jumped my car sounded very much like that, but wouldn't ever start

Did you solve the problem by just readjusting the timing or by replaceing the timing belt or something else?

 

[DougLee25]

I thought you had this thing running the other week? Didn't you reset the timing and all was well? It does sound like a timing problem to me too. Buy a new belt and do the procedure from scratch. Let us know how that works.

Doug

 

[Lupo]

projectSHO89:
Hook up the timing light to the #1 or # 5 wire and see where the white mark is hitting. With the SPOUT jumper pulled it should be around 10 degrees BTDC. Of course, if your camshafts are mistimed, this test won't reveal that. You will have to remove the upper timing belt cover to check that.

Steve

What is the main purpose of the SPOUT jumper; to retard overall timing by ten degrees? Is this sort of a manual way to activate "limp-home" mode?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Removing the spout connector takes away the computers ability to adjust timing. If you left it in, you would never get an accurate reading with the timing light, because the computer is constantly making small adjustments.

 

[RI-SHO]

DougLee25:
I thought you had this thing running the other week? Didn't you reset the timing and all was well? It does sound like a timing problem to me too. Buy a new belt and do the procedure from scratch. Let us know how that works.

Doug

It did run somewhat but stil ran and idled bad making the oil light turn on on and off because of how low the idle got.

Belt only has 10,000miles max, do you still think I should buy it considering its only about $80?

 

[Andrew Tilson]

I fixed mine by buying a new belt off rockauto.com
hasn't slipped again yet, I think I may have tensioned it wrong maybe the first time I did it, the marks are missing from my timing cover. Just take off the top timing cover and take a look at where the index marks align.

 

[projectSHO89]

What is the main purpose of the SPOUT jumper; to retard overall timing by ten degrees? Is this sort of a manual way to activate "limp-home" mode?

Amplifying on Mike's reply:

The SPOUT ( SP ark OUT ) plug forces the computer to use the default 10 degree BTDC timing that should be set mechanically by the position reported by the crank sensor. This is also called "base timing".

On other cars this plug is also referred to as the "Octane Shorting Bar". Same purpose. Removing it will often remove enough timing advance so that those engines will run without knocking or pinging. This is a common trick to cover up other engine problems, so be on the lookout when buying used cars.

With the SPOUT plug installed, the computer and the DIS work together to advance or retard timing dynamically to provide the best possible performance while minimizing engine knock.

My suggestion about using the #5 wire as an alternate to the #1 takes advantage of the fact that both fire at the same time and the #5 is easily accessable.

Steve

 

[BeatDaSHO]

RI-SHO....just buy a new belt. it is about 45 bucks from National Auto. Then start over and install it correctly. do it NOW!!!! and get that beast runnin right.

Greg

 

[sdpatt]

Eiden,

The Gates T248 timing belt is only $35 from RockAuto.com. That is a guarantee that you won't be reinstalling a belt that may have been damaged by not having been tensioned properly and jumping teeth.

Those codes! The 114, 116 and 121 indicate that there is likely a problem with the wiring harness to the intake air charge temperature sensor, the engine coolant temperature sensor and the throttle position sensor, respectively. I don't have my schematics in front of me, but I think that they all come off of the same wiring bundle.

There is another shorting plug (it is not another SPOUT plug because it has no bearing on the SPark OUTput circuit) below the ABS module that can break the ground path for the sensors mentioned above. You need to verify that it is in place. I even remember seeing a photo on the Forum of the location of this plug.

And your timing belt is still misaligned!

 

[BeatDaSHO]

Well, i believe that your timing is still off and that you might have a problem with your computer harness. Those three codes were showing EXACTLY on my brothers new SHO. The engine kind of sounded similar too. The problem was that there was a loose connection with 2 wires going to the computer and one of those wires controlled those three codes. You might have that problem.