best rear control arms

[SableSal]

Those BMR arms look AWESOME.

but for now I'm riding on stockers..

Hey Matt! Wha!? Ran out of paint?? Cause you missed your muffler and the y-pipe...

Damn, that's a lot of green down there...lol :laugh_ti:



Sal

 

[SHO Continental]

Hey Matt! Wha!? Ran out of paint?? Cause you missed your muffler and the y-pipe...

Damn, that's a lot of green down there...lol :laugh_ti:



Sal

shut up sal.. I don't have an unlimited supply of cash like you

 

[Shoaz]

I will be getting the BMR control arms. They seen to be very well made and I do not think that there is any advantage to making a set for myself.

I just got my car aligned, but the camber is off, so I am going to take my SHO to a specialty shop. The BMR control arms should be all that is necessary to adjust the camber on my rear wheel? I guess that by pulling them in, the shop should be able to correct the negative caster. Am I right?

Yes, installing the arms will provide full adjustability of camber and toe in the rear.

You'll also need a sleeve kit from shonut, it also includes the necessary washers, etc.

 

[drivinhard]

FWIW I've had the GM arms on my 89 for years and have never had a problem. Which includes several excursions of plant and wildlife exploration. The BMR arms look pretty stout, but on my 89 (which being lighter may not get the stress a full weight car might) I've had no problems. Car is track car only.

Have them on my 92 as well (street car with a few track events here and there recently) with no problems. Alignment is a snap (really the only reason I did it).

 

[FAST4DR]

I like the new BMR arms compared to the ones I have. The new ones look even stouter with the adjuster moved in.

Will

 

[Shoaz]

If anybody ever gets a chance to make a weight comparison between the BMRs and the GM arms I'd be interested in the result.

 

[RAYJAY]

ordered the BMRs will weight one of them when i receive them.

what is the best way to tie up the e brake and assorted hoses and wires

just wire tie all of them to the front arm ?????




also where is best place to put jack stand and jack up rear of car ????


Jeff

 

[SHO Continental]

also where is best place to put jack stand and jack up rear of car ????
Jeff

On the Triangle-ish piece where the strut-rod bolts to the body. It's a few inches forward of the rear tire.

 

[RAYJAY]

If anybody ever gets a chance to make a weight comparison between the BMRs and the GM arms I'd be interested in the result.

got my BMR arms in THERE AWSOME the weight is 3.85 lb per bar

also if you ask BMR they will send you the 12mm bushings

one other question???? on one of the cams on my rear bar bolt is frozen in the cam where is the best place to heat it .....

ps thank you for all your help

Jeff

 

[rktmn]

I also got my BMR arms last week. They are very well made. No need to improve on these.

If BMR has the 12mm bushings, they should have metioned that they are available. I told them that I was purchasing them for the SHO.

How much were they?

Jose

 

[RAYJAY]

total cost for 4 bars was 399.90 + shipping they included the bushings with the bars.

BMR realy does not deal in ford parts, you have to ask them if you need different items

with the bars your buying .when i called them they really didn't know what bar would fit the SHO thanks to other members on here got the right ones and found out that i need the 12mm bushing so when i ordered just ask for them


Jeff

 

[luigisho]

total cost for 4 bars was 399.90 + shipping they included the bushings with the bars.

BMR realy does not deal in ford parts, you have to ask them if you need different items

with the bars your buying .when i called them they really didn't know what bar would fit the SHO thanks to other members on here got the right ones and found out that i need the 12mm bushing so when i ordered just ask for them


Jeff

That is excellent info. Thanks!

 

[SHO Continental]

so you can just order them with the correct size bushings? so no reducer kit is needed?

 

[RAYJAY]

so you can just order them with the correct size bushings? so no reducer kit is needed?

yes......they have the 12mm bushing but you still have to shim outwith washers because the BMR is smaller in size

 

[rktmn]

My BMR's have been sitting in my shop for a couple of months and I am finally getting around to installing them. I have considered using the 14mm bolts and drilling out the mounting points rather than using the bushings. Has anybody done them this way and would there be any advantages?

Also, how do you attach the ABS sensor spring that is installed on the stock set up?

Jose

 

[Shoaz]

My BMR's have been sitting in my shop for a couple of months and I am finally getting around to installing them. I have considered using the 14mm bolts and drilling out the mounting points rather than using the bushings. Has anybody done them this way and would there be any advantages?

The only advantage I can think of is that you wouldn't need to use the sleeves, but the disadvantages are that you have to drill both the torque box and the knuckle mounting points. This means that it will be more difficult to install other pieces later should you so decide, such as an H-brace or knuckle braces, which are also good to have in the rear suspension.

Also, how do you attach the ABS sensor spring that is installed on the stock set up?

Do you mean the actuator for the bias valve? I took a piece of pipe and hammered the attachment bracket into a round shape the same diameter as the control arm, and then attached it to the arm with some hose clamps (looks a little cheesy, but it's solid). You can use the old arm attachment point as a benchmark for where to mount the bracket.

 

[rktmn]

Shoaz,

I guess that I meant the actuator for the bias valve.

You used the pipe to form the shape of the mounting bracket?

I guess that I will make the sleeves. Do you use spacer washers on both sides of the inside mounting points, or on one side only? How thick are they?

I would think that one does not need spacer washers at the knuckles?

Jose

 

[RAYJAY]

Shoaz,

I guess that I meant the actuator for the bias valve.

You used the pipe to form the shape of the mounting bracket?

I guess that I will make the sleeves. Do you use spacer washers on both sides of the inside mounting points, or on one side only? How thick are they?

I would think that one does not need spacer washers at the knuckles?

Jose

as for the sleeves I would call BMR and just get the 12 mm bushings I did put a fender washer on the knuckle on both sides and udes new lock bolts too
will take pictures later

jeff

 

[Shoaz]

Shoaz,

I guess that I meant the actuator for the bias valve.

You used the pipe to form the shape of the mounting bracket?

Yes, I took a pipe of about the same diameter as the arms and formed the bracket around it. (So I didn't have to pound on the arms.)

I guess that I will make the sleeves. Do you use spacer washers on both sides of the inside mounting points, or on one side only? How thick are they?

One side. They're fairly thick, about 1/8". BTW, you can get the sleeves with all the needed washers from SHOnut. I know you like to make your own stuff, but just wanted to point out that they're available in a kit.

I would think that one does not need spacer washers at the knuckles?

Right, but I put in some hardened washers to help distribute the load around the inside, since otherwise it's just the sleeve and the small bushing against the iron knuckle. On the outside large washers are needed to keep the arm from walking off the end of the bolt. You can see the large washers in the pics posted here previously.

 

[RAYJAY]

Here is how i shimed out my BMR arms .


went to home depot and bought 1/2 fender washers and 1/2 reg. washers

fender washers shown

reg washers shown

caliper

use a caliper to mesure the old arms and the BMR arms (old arm shown)
mesurement does varry to each old bar.

use different washers to get as close as you can to old bars

if you note the bushing on the old bars sticks out more on one side than the other shim that side more than the other side

as for the knuckles you need a washer on the back side to keep the arm straight.

Jeff