'94 Suspension Upgrade

[go-to]

In the past...upgrading my FWD cars typically consisted of Koni's/Eibach's and installing a rear sway bar where there was none (most had great front sway bars). That and possibly poly bushings along with strut tower bars.

Can I follow the same pattern on the SHO? If so, then what are the currently available parts I should hunt down?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[DJSHO91]

As to some cost-effective chassis mods, for Gen I & II series, the SHO really reacts well to sub-frame connectors. Upgrading the various suspension and subframe bushings, to harder materials, also improves responsiveness. Frt and rr strut tower braces also help. All SHO models come with frt and rr sway bars, but sizes vary over the years. If you check the Search function, you will find a whole series on the pros and cons of various sway-bars sizes. For a street vehicle, I would focus on the other options plus a good set of springs and struts. Good luck!

 

[Sholovenothate]

not my site but shosource.com has a ton of stuff, even if you arent buying from them its a good place to get ideas from at the very least, but it does support the forum

 

[go-to]

Thanks guys...I've got a list to go off of now!

 

[SHOdded]

Gen III SLO subframe, Gen III front control arms, and 24/26 F/R swaybars are basically what I had done to mine (thanks, Scott & Andrew!). Took corners like it was glued to the road, very very nice & worthwhile upgrade. Gets rid of the pesky strut rod/bushing setup, and makes it easy to replace the front wheel bearings (bolt-in vs press-in for Gen I/II).

Could also do Ingalls rear adjustable control arms, and plug the brake proportioning valve if you are feeling adventurous

And I would paint the subframe and Ingalls RAC arms to prevent even surface rust from getting a grip.

 

[go-to]

Gen III SLO subframe, Gen III front control arms, and 24/26 F/R swaybars are basically what I had done to mine (thanks, Scott & Andrew!). Took corners like it was glued to the road, very very nice & worthwhile upgrade. Gets rid of the pesky strut rod/bushing setup, and makes it easy to replace the front wheel bearings (bolt-in vs press-in for Gen I/II).

Could also do Ingalls rear adjustable control arms, and plug the brake proportioning valve if you are feeling adventurous

And I would paint the subframe and Ingalls RAC arms to prevent even surface rust from getting a grip.

I should measure my current sway bars...

 

[jayro]

What are your plans with the car? That kind of dictates the route to take. your initial proposal is a good place to start. As far as sway bars the idea is big in back and small up front for performance....though it can result in the rear end coming around depending on the rest of the setup. Sub frame connectors do wonders.

Past that it depends on your end goal.

Weight reduction always does wonders for handling as well.

Yes, measure your sway bars. I used a caliper to check the diameter.

 

[go-to]

I don't mind a stiff daily driver so...it will be my stiff daily driver that never sees an auto-x course.

I've never had a larger sway bar on the back of a FWD car.

 

[kevinspann]

What year is your car?

 

[go-to]

My car is a 1994 and has OEM struts and springs. Last night while swapping the rims to the proper direction I noticed the OEM stickers and decals still in place on the springs and struts. All Ford original parts still on the car.

 

[jimtash]

Gen III SLO subframe, Gen III front control arms, and 24/26 F/R swaybars are basically what I had done to mine (thanks, Scott & Andrew!). Took corners like it was glued to the road, very very nice & worthwhile upgrade. Gets rid of the pesky strut rod/bushing setup, and makes it easy to replace the front wheel bearings (bolt-in vs press-in for Gen I/II).

Could also do Ingalls rear adjustable control arms, and plug the brake proportioning valve if you are feeling adventurous

And I would paint the subframe and Ingalls RAC arms to prevent even surface rust from getting a grip.

Didn't know the Gen III subframe fit. Will the Gen I struts still work with the set up? What about motor mounts?

 

[SHOdded]

Not sure about Gen I, as mine was a Gen II. But was able to use the same shocks/struts/motor mounts on mine. TimboSHO, among others, can likely answer these questions re Gen I

 

[intimdatr]

Yes the Gen 3 subframe is the same across 1st AND 2nd gens. You need to relocate the trans mount the same for 1989-1995


And I have almost every Susp thing done to my 89, Ingalls rear control arms, 24/26mm sway bars, coil overs up front, H brace, gen 3 subframe, and front and rear strut bars. And the thing reminds me a lot of kt100 go kart in the handling.

Its stiff but its about as planted as it gets.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Not sure about Gen I, as mine was a Gen II. But was able to use the same shocks/struts/motor mounts on mine. TimboSHO, among others, can likely answer these questions re Gen I

Some welding and cutting are needed for the motor mounts to work still. It is not a direct bolt on and go.

 

[go-to]

I was impressed with the stock handling my '94 SHO...I've driven a lot of different cars and for stock it handles really well.

Already, I have issues on curbs or inclined drives. I 2-wheel into my driveway coming and going.

Now that the 24mm/26mm sway bars are installed, it's worse.

I was exiting a parking lot Saturday night and it wasn't that steep...passenger front and driver rear tires lift off the ground at the same time I hit the gas to get out into traffic.

Fun times.

 

[Fordlover96]

I was impressed with the stock handling my '94 SHO...I've driven a lot of different cars and for stock it handles really well.

Already, I have issues on curbs or inclined drives. I 2-wheel into my driveway coming and going.

Now that the 24mm/26mm sway bars are installed, it's worse.

I was exiting a parking lot Saturday night and it wasn't that steep...passenger front and driver rear tires lift off the ground at the same time I hit the gas to get out into traffic.

Fun times.

Its true. Even my dad said my car handled rather well for what it was, when he drove it 2 years ago. Granted, he had an Audi A8 at that moment so it was something! haha

 

[go-to]

I've got some clunking in my front end that just started...what do I look for? Rather since the car still likely has OE parts...which bushings or parts should I order to replace?! hehe

 

[rubydist]

clunking in the front end is usually some combination of: strut mounts (the rubber/steel part at the top of the strut attaching to the body), control arm bushings, radius rod bushings, and subframe bushings. any of those parts that are close to 20 years old will need replaced.