also about the oil issue, should i just cut the engine off before it goes too low? also is there a wideband afr gauge i could get thats kinda plug n play? the lean/rich issues this car has makes me paranoid
i didn’t mess with the idle screw but i undid the secondary vacuum line again, i believe its an ignition issue cuz it clearly is getting the fuel and air its j the spark that falls off, i can tell its getting fuel cuz all the unburnt fuel is quite pungent, n it was getting plenty of air beefore...
now the car starts right up with minimal cranking, idles at ab 2k(absurd) and then over ab a minute slows down to 700 n then drops right down to 200 and once its at 200 the lights flicker and whole car (especially passenger seat) shakes quite
violently, the light flickering and high idle are...
i think maybe my fuel pump is going out, because car starts idles real good for about 3 seconds and then it feels like fuel gets cut to most of my cylinders and thats when the misfires start. it also SOUNDS like its going out, when car ran semi-normal it was already real loud so the car running...
i know this forum is usually dedicated to making the SHO handle BETTER, but has anyone had any luck lifting a SHO? i dont care about actual offroad performance, i just want the ground clearance and so i could fit offroad tires, so those "universal lift cups" that some donks use would work fine...
right before i took the video i started the engine up and it ran the same, it perplexes me to think that a vaccum leak would only show itself after fixing a different leak
idk if trans is shifting normal again i haavent driven it yet its not firing on enough cylinders, my issue is that i cant even get going fast enough to get it to shift in its current condition, it acc jusy refuses to rev past 1k
oh dear.... i trust the last guy that had the car ab as far as i could throw him to put a car back tg... esp cuz of the two big bolts i found in the center console n now that u mention it they could totally be manifold bolts