i used a 3/4 hole saw with a very shallow centering bit and came through everything. once i had a good support on the sides of the hole, I removed the centering bit.
You will be happy to know I made the phone call to circle D telling them what was needed for Mr O's personal car at the beginning. I call a couple of months later to get some for my shop and I learn that Mr. O had exclusive rights to them somehow. I went elsewhere to have mine made at that...
If you aren't at the limit of the fuel system it is possible that you can make a slight tweak, otherwise the intake isn't what was holding back ultimate power.
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I could extract a little more power at higher rpms, but there is a reason the factory tapers boost off slightly before the shift the same way that I do.
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For beginners, hold the brake, bring rpms up to 1500 then when it's go time, slam the gas and let off the brakes simultaneously.
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I make my tuning as close to atkinson cycle as possible at light part throttle because that's where the fuel economy comes from.
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We have Cobb for 19-20 raptor now, they don't have support for the transverse. I like my pedals to be stockish for the first 1/4 throttle so you don't accidentally rear end the car in front of you at the stoplight.
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Once you reach MBT timing there is no reason to advance timing further and the knock sensors will stop adding timing as well. And higher ethanol content burns faster than straight gasoline all else being equal so it will arrive at MBT timing sooner degree-wise all else being equal.
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Lots of pedal mapping is available but I don't change between E30 and normal E10. I guess I'm still not understanding your question when the difference between different fuel blends commands the same torque from the engine vs pedal position.
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Sounds like we are talking about two different things. Are we simply talking about pedal response or are we talking about engine dynamics on a different fuel?
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