Actually mine "drifted" about 30 or more degrees low, so a fan wouldn't come on unless I turned on the AC. Mine has two fans. There was no code. Then the fan motor for the AC fan failed... took a long time to find the correct fans for a '95 MTX (one year only. MTX only, apparently?)
A bugger to...
OK then.... Persistence pays. Turns out you pry the clip open to clear the edge of the pin but then pull UP. Both struts had ford part numbers beginning with F2DB and '95 date codes 089/95 and 102/95. And - only one of the struts was bad, 089, But that was enough when it's cold out to have the...
My 31 year old hood struts are finally giving up. I got replacements, but I can't get the lower clips off. All the Helms says is "Remove the lock clip at the cowl top extension." but not how to do so. It looks like you should pry open the bottom of the clip a bit with a screwdriver and push...
Actually the relay and solenoid are combined in Gen 2. The positive battery cable attaches directly to the top stud at the back of the starter solenoid. The starter motor power comes from the bottom stud. I've circled both studs. When power is applied to the trigger (yellow in this pic) the...
You read the post correctly, as has almost everyone else.
The first instance was a short, slow crank, then nothing. Every other event has been no crank. Happens engine warm pretty reliably, but will also happen engine cold whenever it feels like it. It has never died once started, whether...
OK, here's a table of what I found.On first crank it started, then no crank the remainder of the testing. The crank and start was 11.2 V solenoid trigger to negative battery clamp, same set up as yesterday. I was hoping to get several readings with crank and start since engine was cooled off...
Thanks! So I’m down to:
•intermittent bad ground mostly when hot, but sometimes when stone cold, or
•bad starter.
I still need to do the @fcable voltage drop to the block not the battery negative terminal. I acknowledge I’m not an electrician, But if I’m 12.5-12.6 across the battery terminals...
I've been lucky enough not to fry a crank sensor since about 1997, but if IIRC it would crank, but not start? And this would be after dying in the middle of driving someplace, just quit, and not restart for hours until it cooled down... That's not what I'm seeing. Can you point to a crank sensor...
539 is the only code. I had the AC on when I was out driving today, so my bad. It's 65 today in Colorado. We want, desperately need, the snow the NE is getting today...
528 is only saved code, but that was likely me screwing around with troubleshooting. I put it to 'start' and then pressed the...
I haven’t pulled codes but I can get KOEO I expect. Since it fairly reliably won’t start hot, KOER might be a challenge.
But I’m a bit curious about the clutch switch piece. Since I can get a voltage at the solenoid when I get a no start, doesn’t that exonerate the clutch switch? I would think...
11 to 11.2 volts with starts, 10.1 and 9.9 no starts. So, what then? There enough drop in 1 volt to not pull in the solenoid? Wouldn’t the solenoid just pull more amps? It looks like a 10 or 12 gauge wire. I would expect higher voltage drop with heated wiring.
Oh, and this reading was to the...
TLDR version - various no start conditions across a three week period. sometimes no crank, once mimics a dying battery with slow crank.
Maybe my SHO doesn't like being on winter duty, but it's started a hard to diagnose no start condition because the only thing consistent is no start until it's...
TDMaddux - The Helms manual shows this sensor is actually on the firewall (see my original post or two above). In my case the troubleshooting procedure in the manual ended up condemning the diagnostic module by the glovebox, not the sensor.
And I did eventually find a good used module on eBay...