okay everyone....i ordered the head gaskets and the the rod bearings. four questions though...first all is whats my torque sequence and amounts for the head bolts and are they torque to yield? next is whats the torque specs for rob bolts? should the rod bolts be replaced or can they be reused...
i did forget to answer that....no i dont have a gauge...actaully i dont have any gauges. i had a motor that lasted over a year on the track without bearings or extra oil so id assumed i was safe without a gauge. only reason i lost that motor was to massive overheating and i actually have the...
okay im gonna try and answer everyone...first, rules? haha rule one is no motor swaps so obviously rules dont matter to me...because that rule though the2 car picks someone requested wont look pretty. to hide the swap i removed the fenders and bumpers from the sho and did my best to mold them...
did you guys ever get the swap to work? i successfully transplanted a 3.0 into a probe for dirt track racing and have had huge success with it. granted i started with a 94 probe with a 2.5 not the first gen you guys are using but my second dirt track car that i use as a spare is a 3.0 vulcan...
i have a 3.0 sho motor and trans in a 94 ford probe that i use for dirt track racing. what im trying to learn is what needs to be done to my motor to make sure i have it ready for racing and dont throw another rod. currently im running the rev limiter to 8400 rpm (to avoid a second to third...
and i did not use the timing belt method to time the motor...after assembling everything, and before i know how to do it with the marks, i had actually assembled it correctly the first time.(i think) the dots on the cams face 12 oclock and face the marks on the cover and the crank dot faces 5...
i kept the 3.2 motor the same. i didnt swap out any of the cams and the block is still using the 3.2 tensioner and belt. i just made a new system for running the water pump and alternator. and kept the 3.2 the same.
i triple checked the belt and it was correct...this belt and motor are part of a 3.0 to 3.2 conversion. motor still fires incorrectly...seems like massive mech timing problem. i repeat the belt is on 100% correct. so far installed two different 3.0 wiring harnesses, two cam sensors, two crank...
thanks guys...its amazing what a wire brush will do...so i now have the crank gear dot located....when the cam gear dots are all the way up where should the crank gear dot be?
i saw no dot on the crank gear...teh only thing i see on the crank gear is the two threaded holes for removing the gear and the keyway...other than that there are no marking on the gear on either my 3.0 or 3.2 motors
there is a dot on each cam gear...i lined those dots straight up toward the marks on the cover behind the cam gears.
the crank gear had no markings at all but i noticed that the plastic cover that covers that gear had timing marks and that the harmonic balancer has timing marks. i put the cover...
put a new timing belt in and had the crank move while installation. i set the dots on the cam gears to line up with the mark in the cover and set the crank to where the mark on the balancer lined up with the "0" mark on the cover....after this tried to start the car and its way way out of...