Antifreeze problems continued....

[Eric VerValin]

You gunna buy another drain pan or what.. lol Ace is a good shop... but I can't say about a repaired one... really dont know anyone who has ever done that before to be honest with ya.

 

[boat]

If I am going to take the radiator out, I kinda need a pan. I didn't know when you got home or if you would be able to bring it out to me this evening. The rain is supposed to be here until late tonight, like early morning hours tomorrow. I am going to try to get done tonight as much as possible, so Saturday when it is cold we don't have to do as much.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

You need to read the posts/replies in your thread better. You're re-asking questions that have already been answered in prior posts in this very thread.

For example, someone gave the (800) number to a mail order company for a new radiator with warranty for $99 dollars, on the 11th (SHOMON). You wasted $44 and tax. Another person posted he had a new one leak right out of the box (SHOZ123). There is no such thing as "old". Either it's leaking, or it's not leaking. Leaking - replace; not leaking - look elsewhere.

Also, ANYTIME you don't get heat output as the temperature begins to rise off the "C" on the temp gauge, the system is significantly low on coolant. So low, that there isn't enough coolant to fill/flow-through the heater core. When it's cold out, you should be able to detect "heat" even if the EATC temp is only set to 72°F . . . .

Oh, and just because the TEMP gauge only showed the temperature in the middle of the NORMAL range, doesn't mean you didn't "cook it". It was in the middle of the range because the temperature probe was no longer immersed in coolant, which meant it was measuring the air temperature. That's when you get intermittent rapid temperature-spikes on the TEMP, as periodically the thermostat opens and intermittently shoots super-hot coolant across the probe. The high-pitched whining noise? That's from the water pump bearings, since there's no coolant to help muffle the sound. And even if you only think you have a leak, never ever leave it unattended for any length of time, much less 30 minutes - unless of course you're looking for an excuse to change the motor . . . .

 

[boat]

UPDATE after the weekend!

Hey Guys
It was a long weekend, here's what happened.

I have replaced the radiator, front motor mount, coolant hoses (upper, lower, coolant bypass, both heater core hoses), thermostat, and coolant.

Prior to dissassembly, I found no hoses leaking anywhere, including the coolant bypass hose. So the radiator was spliting a little bit on the passenger side endtank. But I found something interesting today looking at the old radiator, there was antifreeze in some of the little holes on the radiator aluminum core. Could have just been from the rupture of the endtank and the splatter.

I did find the old thermostat broken. I think it might even be the wrong one for the car. Here's a pic:

I flushed water through the heater core, I had water flow through both sides, that is a good thing. I also flushed out the coolant recovery tank with warm water and cleaned out a bunch of gunk, :vomit: .

I got the cooling system refilled with a 50/50 antifreeze mixture. I started it and let it run and watched the fluid, checked all of the hoses and clamps, so far nothing has leaked yet. While watching the coolant in the radiator, I didn't see many bubbles. Once running and the antifreeze was flowing, the squealing stopped on the water pump went away. Which yes, I know it was the bearings squealing b/c the antifreeze had not fully flowed to the water pump yet.
I did pull a bonehead after dissassembly (in the rain, 40 degrees), and reassembly (35 and windy), 2 days worth of working, I forgot to tighten up the battery connections. DOH! I went to go and rev the motor after the engine was warm, when I did, the car died and the lights went out. I was on the phone with bubba1492, He's like check your battery... DOH! I put them back on, tightened them up, and it fired right up. WHEW!

I let it run for about 40 minutes and the temp gauge stayed just below the "L" of normal, and was nice and toasty warm. Went out and drove it, it felt really good and smooth, went around a few city blocks, came back home. Parked it, let it run for a little while longer, no leaks were under the car. Came out to leave for work this morning and no leaks then either.

I am happy it seems to be running even smoother than before all this happened. It almost seems more responsive, more solid. Is it the motor mount? Maybe its in my head, cuz I didn't drive it for almost a week,

This was my first major repair by myself, took me a little longer cuz, I think I am still a little green/new to working on my SHO. But it did get completed.

Thanks

 

[boat]

No disrespect intended, and I do appreciate the knowledge you bring to the table, Storm, but,I have been under a lot of stress lately. Seems kind of like you are beating me up over this...

Between working a full time job, taking 2 engineering college classes (which I am behind in, b/c of the SHO), and a car that doesn't seem to stop sucking my wallet and time dry, I have a lot on my plate. I am not taking away from the fact that a lot of people either have it worse than I do, or are as busy or busier than I am. I don't have internet at home, I have to use it where I can get it. Forgive me if I re-asked a "?". But looking back through, I am not exactly sure and don't really see where I re-asked a "?". If it came across that way, it may have been when I gave an update.

As far as 1800-Radiator, I wasn't sure I would have had the radiator in time to get it done this past weekend. Yeah, I spent probably more than I should have.

The water pump never made that sound before that leak/rupture occured. I really had no idea that whole mess was going to happen, and would not have left it running unattended, if I had known what was about to happen. But the squealing noise does make sense as far as the water pump not having the coolant to lubricate the bearings. I had not experienced any lack of heat prior to that incident, so until the point where it ruptured, I had no problem getting heat in the car.

Can you tell me exactly how will I know I "cooked" the engine? I have driven some after putting it all back together. Checked the oil and antifreeze today at lunch, there does not appear to be any mixing of the 2. Is there a way to tell immediately if I did cook the engine or not???

I am just tired of this car sucking my resources dry. I cannot afford any more major repairs. I do enjoy it while it runs good.

I am thankful for the help I have received here on the forum, I have been able to get a lot done.
Thanks

You need to read the posts/replies in your thread better. You're re-asking questions that have already been answered in prior posts in this very thread.

For example, someone gave the (800) number to a mail order company for a new radiator with warranty for $99 dollars, on the 11th (SHOMON). You wasted $44 and tax. Another person posted he had a new one leak right out of the box (SHOZ123). There is no such thing as "old". Either it's leaking, or it's not leaking. Leaking - replace; not leaking - look elsewhere.

Also, ANYTIME you don't get heat output as the temperature begins to rise off the "C" on the temp gauge, the system is significantly low on coolant. So low, that there isn't enough coolant to fill/flow-through the heater core. When it's cold out, you should be able to detect "heat" even if the EATC temp is only set to 72°F . . . .

Oh, and just because the TEMP gauge only showed the temperature in the middle of the NORMAL range, doesn't mean you didn't "cook it". It was in the middle of the range because the temperature probe was no longer immersed in coolant, which meant it was measuring the air temperature. That's when you get intermittent rapid temperature-spikes on the TEMP, as periodically the thermostat opens and intermittently shoots super-hot coolant across the probe. The high-pitched whining noise? That's from the water pump bearings, since there's no coolant to help muffle the sound. And even if you only think you have a leak, never ever leave it unattended for any length of time, much less 30 minutes - unless of course you're looking for an excuse to change the motor . . . .

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I'm not "trying" to beat you up. I'm Just trying to show you one of the reasons why you're into this SHO for more than you probably should have been.

You asked for assistance, and then bring-up how much you've spent on the SHO. By not reading all the posts, you're missing valuable information, you possibly delay getting the problem resolved, and in this case spent more than you likely needed to. Personally, I would have spent the 3-5 minutes to verify that the $99 radiator price was still valid, as well as how and where it's shipped from. It's highly possible that it might ship from either Chicago or Indy, and it's entirely possible you would have had it by the weekend.

Fixing most vehicles is a compromise between how much it will cost and how long it will take. If you want/need it fixed right away, you're almost always going to pay much more. If you take a little time to comparison-shop, you will generally pay less for the parts and in turn, less in maintaining a vehicle over time. Also, as you take the time to do the comparison-shopping, over time you will learn by experience who is most likely to have the part, and who's most reliable.

Oh, and trust me. I've got you beat on the stress thing by a long-shot . . . . Just ask Eric.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've ordered two radiators from radiator.com and had both within 24 hrs.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Two additional points.

If I hadn't mentioned those posts, would you have ever read them?

Second, if pointing out that you overlooked the information helps you better handle the next problem, would you prefer that I did, or didn't?

Personally, my next post following the (800) RADIATOR or the radiator.com posts, would have been a request from others for feedback on product quality, shipping rates and times, and how well the companies did overall.

 

[boat]

Thank you. For the most part, I have done some price shopping in on most of the parts on my SHO, just emergency things that keep me from driving it, I get hasty and order/buy where I see it first, or most convienently.

In my shopping experience, you are right, I have learned who is most reliable and who takes a certain amount of time to get things. Generally, 1 item ordered from RCM, takes a day or 2, any more than that, it seems to take weeks. I should have taken those few minutes to call the 1800-radiator place, like I said above, I got hasty.

I figured there were people out there who have more stress than me.
Thank you for your help

I'm not "trying" to beat you up. I'm Just trying to show you one of the reasons why you're into this SHO for more than you probably should have been.

You asked for assistance, and then bring-up how much you've spent on the SHO. By not reading all the posts, you're missing valuable information, you possibly delay getting the problem resolved, and in this case spent more than you likely needed to. Personally, I would have spent the 3-5 minutes to verify that the $99 radiator price was still valid, as well as how and where it's shipped from. It's highly possible that it might ship from either Chicago or Indy, and it's entirely possible you would have had it by the weekend.

Fixing most vehicles is a compromise between how much it will cost and how long it will take. If you want/need it fixed right away, you're almost always going to pay much more. If you take a little time to comparison-shop, you will generally pay less for the parts and in turn, less in maintaining a vehicle over time. Also, as you take the time to do the comparison-shopping, over time you will learn by experience who is most likely to have the part, and who's most reliable.

Oh, and trust me. I've got you beat on the stress thing by a long-shot . . . . Just ask Eric.

 

[boat]

Maybe.
Did.

It is easy to just read fast, think that you caught everything, but 9 times out of 10, something important can/will be missed.

Thanks

Two additional points.

If I hadn't mentioned those posts, would you have ever read them?

Second, if pointing out that you overlooked the information helps you better handle the next problem, would you prefer that I did, or didn't?

Personally, my next post following the (800) RADIATOR or the radiator.com posts, would have been a request from others for feedback on product quality, shipping rates and times, and how well the companies did overall.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

That's why you often see such a spread in pricing for many items - some companies prey on impulse-buyers and the impatient.

Yeah, hopefully one of these days I'll make enough [again] to afford coming up there to party with the Fort Wayne crowd again . . . .

Thank you. For the most part, I have done some price shopping in on most of the parts on my SHO, just emergency things that keep me from driving it, I get hasty and order/buy where I see it first, or most convienently.

In my shopping experience, you are right, I have learned who is most reliable and who takes a certain amount of time to get things. Generally, 1 item ordered from RCM, takes a day or 2, any more than that, it seems to take weeks. I should have taken those few minutes to call the 1800-radiator place, like I said above, I got hasty.

I figured there were people out there who have more stress than me.
Thank you for your help

 

[boat]

I have been periodically checking the antifreeze in the radiator this week and inspecting for leaks after having put all that back together, radiator, hoses, etc..

What I have noticed, it looks like there is a slight film in my radiator. It almost looks like it is from the plastic coating of the filler neck on the inside of the radiator. I also noticed little tiny bubbles this morning, hoping that is just air bubbles bleeding themselves out.

I just went and opened up the radiator cap, a saw this same film on top of the antifreeze. But this time, I thought I saw, a slight brown tint to it, around the edges of the antifreeze. I have been checking the oil this week too, haven't noticed anything strange with it as of yet.

DID I COOK/WARP THE MOTOR, HEADS????? IS THERE AN ENGINE CHANGE IN MY FUTURE???!!!! makes me sick if so :vomit:

 

[boat]

Someone tell me please.....

What are the steps to verify if my engine is toast or not?

What are the signs? What do I need to check? Do I park it? Change the oil?

I am beside myself right now cuz I don't have the money to replace the engine, to replace the car. As I said above, it makes me sick to even have to concieve the idea of having to replace the engine on my ONLY car, especially when I don't have money for it.

 

[boat]

I believe I have discovered the root to the brown stuff in the top of my antifreeze. I am pretty sure I stirred up some rust from somewhere in the cooling system, and it has settled on top of the antifreeze. As far as the oil goes, she is getting an oil change this weekend. My SHO runs really smooth and solid, no overheating or anything. No strange white smoke out the tailpipes, other than what is normal for being cold outside. I hope that the only thing that comes out of my oil pan is oil. Well keep all posted...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Take a chill-pill.

Damn, you worry more than Sam's mother . . . , and she has reason to ! (Sam)


:angelnot:

 

[boat]

I do worry too much. Hangin out with bubba1492 yesterday, tells me that Eric was going to mess with me on that, then he decided against it, b/c he didn't want me goin postal on him lol.... I guess I do get a little paranoid when someone hints at the fact there might be a chance I "cooked" my motor, or just b/c the temp gauge was in the middle didn't mean I didn't cook it. Which Storm's reasoning makes more sense.

So in the meantime of putting it all back together, and watching the coolant/oil, that thought was floating around in the back of my mind.

I think one thing in doing all of that work, in the physical reality, I think b/c the thermostat was broken and couldn't close, it couldn't get as hot, by God's gracious hand my motor was saved.

Spooked me out... I will pay more attention in the future... thanks storm

Take a chill-pill.

Damn, you worry more than Sam's mother . . . , and she has reason to ! (Sam)


:angelnot:

 

[haydenm315]

Glad you got your problem fixed, but ah crud.... I'm a potential member of the radiator cracked end tank club. I've been losing coolant for about a week now. Takes at least a couple days to flag the sensor. I figured it had something to do with me pulling the intake off and fixing my leaking valve cover and rear cam seal. Hoping for a messed up hose, but no. An inspection of the radiator revealed coolant a little more than 3/4 of the way up on the radiator, running down the fan assembly on the driver's side. When you get under the car, it's dripping off the drain ****. Pretty sure the radiator is done.

I bought the car over 8 years ago and who knows how long that one has been in there. In the 100k I've had it, I've done 2 or 3 flushes. Looks like more money in the pit.

 

[boat]

This morning while driving through a parking garage, I heard what I thought was my water pump squeal when I would give a little bit of acceleration, did not squeal while just idling.

What I wonder is, could I have done any damage to the water pump when it ran low on no coolant and squealing like a banshee?

From Storm-Chaser

The high-pitched whining noise? That's from the water pump bearings, since there's no coolant to help muffle the sound.

I would get that replaced soon... Good luck with that repair.

Glad you got your problem fixed, but ah crud.... I'm a potential member of the radiator cracked end tank club. I've been losing coolant for about a week now. Takes at least a couple days to flag the sensor. I figured it had something to do with me pulling the intake off and fixing my leaking valve cover and rear cam seal. Hoping for a messed up hose, but no. An inspection of the radiator revealed coolant a little more than 3/4 of the way up on the radiator, running down the fan assembly on the driver's side. When you get under the car, it's dripping off the drain ****. Pretty sure the radiator is done.