Temp sensor for electric fan....Where?

[L.L.]

It's a 93 SHO.:woohoo:

Where is the sensor/sending unit for the electric fan?
I don't think she's heating up all the way and it's running rich.
I'd like the help the mileage any way I can.

The tailpipes are black.

 

[sdpatt]

It is the function of the thermostat to regulate the temperature of the engine coolant. If the engine is not warming to the NORMAL temperature range, your thermostat is not closing sufficiently.

The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is located in the coolant line below and aft of the throttle body.

 

[L.L.]

It is the function of the thermostat to regulate the temperature of the engine coolant. If the engine is not warming to the NORMAL temperature range, your thermostat is not closing sufficiently.

The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is located in the coolant line below and aft of the throttle body.

I understand that.
But if the fan is coming on too soon or often it will do the same thing.

Is the (ECT) the same sensor for the electric fan?

Where should the temp gauge be when the car is fully warmed up?

 

[turbo79]

Unlike earlier Fords, the EEC - IV electronics in a '93 Ford do not function by the temp. sensor sending a direct signal to a "switch" that turns on the fan.

The ECT sends a signal through the ECM that then sends a signal through the IRCM/CCRM (look up the abbrevs by doing a search here) that then controls the fan.

1. Stop driving the car now unless you are planning to replace the CAT convertors sometime soon.

2. Replace the thermostat ASAP, and do NOT install one that opens at any less than the proper temp.

That's where to start, anyway. I'm sure that others will fill in the blanks for you. The fan couldn't cool down the engine enough to cause black tailpipes if the thermostat is functional, I believe.

 

[L.L.]

Unlike earlier Fords, the EEC - IV electronics in a '93 Ford do not function by the temp. sensor sending a direct signal to a "switch" that turns on the fan.

The ECT sends a signal through the ECM that then sends a signal through the IRCM/CCRM (look up the abbrevs by doing a search here) that then controls the fan.

1. Stop driving the car now unless you are planning to replace the CAT convertors sometime soon.

2. Replace the thermostat ASAP, and do NOT install one that opens at any less than the proper temp.

That's where to start, anyway. I'm sure that others will fill in the blanks for you. The fan couldn't cool down the engine enough to cause black tailpipes if the thermostat is functional, I believe.

Gotcha. I'll go buy a thermostat. Corrrct thermostat temp for a 93????

Thanks to both of you for the info and the help.:thankyou:

 

[hawkeye18]

185 is OEM for a t-stat, but a 195 will work just fine. Make sure it has a jiggle valve in it. Buy Motorcraft if possible; stant, etc. do not have the correct jiggle valve.

If you can't fine one with a jiggle valve (it's basically a tiny little hole at the top that allows air bubbles to get through without letting much coolant through), just get a tiny drill bit and dill a wee little hole at the top of the t-stat.

Yes, the ECT sends a signal to turn on the fans when it gets to about 205, but if the thermostat is stuck open (as it VERY commonly does - mine has twice), the coolant will never get a chance to heat up correctly as it keeps going through the radiator instead of through the block again. If the coolant never gets hot enough, the fans will never turn on, and you'll run rich as s#*%.

But yes, definitely, replace your thermostat. You should be replacing it often... every time you do a coolant flush is optimal.

 

[L.L.]

185 is OEM for a t-stat, but a 195 will work just fine. Make sure it has a jiggle valve in it. Buy Motorcraft if possible; stant, etc. do not have the correct jiggle valve.

If you can't fine one with a jiggle valve (it's basically a tiny little hole at the top that allows air bubbles to get through without letting much coolant through), just get a tiny drill bit and dill a wee little hole at the top of the t-stat.

Yes, the ECT sends a signal to turn on the fans when it gets to about 205, but if the thermostat is stuck open (as it VERY commonly does - mine has twice), the coolant will never get a chance to heat up correctly as it keeps going through the radiator instead of through the block again. If the coolant never gets hot enough, the fans will never turn on, and you'll run rich as s#*%.

But yes, definitely, replace your thermostat. You should be replacing it often... every time you do a coolant flush is optimal.

Great info from all you guys. THANKS

 

[itwonder]

I followed sdpatt's lead and installed a Duralast thermostat from Autozone. It appears to be high quality, it has the jiggle valve, and the price is right. Part numbers are : Duralast 15878 – 180 degree, Duralast 15879 – 192 degree. Felpro 35278 – Seal. Note: Other Felpro seals are listed for this application but the 35278 is the least expensive for some reason.

So far it is working great. My car had the 192 degree thermostat from the factory, but this time I switched to the 180 degree used on previous year model SHO's. All around, drivability and fuel mileage seem to have improved a bit.