Your paying way to much!!!!

[woodrow]

If you want to get your cams fixed, get them pinned. Welding is not good for the cams. I was lucky... My 96 SHO had the ticking noise for about 8000 kms and they never failed, but one was loose. I had to take my car out of town, because all the dealers refused to work on it. I called Tom at the SHOshop, but found that sending my cams all way to Cali.. from here way up north in Canada it wasn't a great idea. I had my cams removed then shipped to me where I had a local machine shop pin them for me. It cost me the majority of the bill at the dealer because of the 30 hrs labour to R&R them. The Machine shop was 600 bucks canadian. They drilled an 5/16 hole then used stainless pins that were set in liquid nitrogen to shrink them. This way they heat up and they expand and are guarenteed never to come loose. I don't even think that Tom pins them at his shop,he just sends them out. but his prices are a bit expense. and ya don't need really expensive bits......just a shop that knows what they are doing..

<small>[ December 03, 2002, 11:16 PM: Message edited by: woodrow ]</small>

 

[RStalveyARFF]

dude, you paid too much. 30hrs R&R? It's 24 to replace the entire motor on a v6, and that's for a shortblock. I love how dealers cheat and steal!

 

[Osiris]

30 hours... that's like almost a full work week...

wow...

 

[SHO Shop]

Odd.........book time we charge removing/replacing V8 camshafts is only 20 hours, including a full valve adjustment.

Maybe the Canadian exchange rate carries over for shop hours also.

<small>[ December 03, 2002, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: SHO Shop ]</small>

 

[woodrow]

Simmer down, here in Canada theres a thing called sarcasam. Saying 30 hrs R&R is just an exaggerated comment towards the ridiculous price that it costs to have this problem fixed... What is too much, is the price that some of you have paid to have your cams welded or pinned.

 

[SHODWN]

Really The FOrd Cd, Book and dealer all say zero about lash adjustment. Have you found a place to buy shims?

 

[drivinhard]

I got a Ford tech video on the V8 motor. The valve adjustment procedure was pretty interesting. If I remember right, the shims have a dimple on them, seems they'd pop the shim out of the bucket using compressed air.

My favorite part of the video is the balance shaft section. "To replace balance shaft, step 1, remove engine from vehicle"!!! lol.

<small>[ December 04, 2002, 08:40 AM: Message edited by: drivinhard ]</small>

 

[SHODWN]

no dimple its a oil hole, close though. you need a blow off tool (like when your dirty) stick it in and pop it up. the oil acts like glue on it whe the two surfaces meet.

 

[SHOZ123]

Valve Clearance
1.Disconnect battery ground cable. Refer to.

2.Remove valve cover as described.

3.Note: Camshaft lobes must be directed 90 degrees or more away from valve tappets.

Insert feeler gauge under lobe at 90 degree angle to camshaft.

a.valve clearance intake (cold): 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 inch)

b.valve clearance exhaust (cold): 0.25-0.35 mm (0.010-0.014 inch)

4.To adjust clearance, insert Tappet Compressor T89P-6500-A under camshaft next to lobe and rotate down to depress bucket valve tappet.

5.Insert Tappet Holder T96P-6500-AH, and remove compressor tool.

6. WARNING: EYE PROTECTION IS REQUIRED TO BE WORN DURING USE OF COMPRESSED AIR. FAILURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION COULD RESULT IN POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

Direct a jet of compressed air toward hole in face ofvalve adjusting spacer (6515) to lift the valve adjusting spacer off of the valve tappet.



7.Determine size of valve adjusting spacer by numbers on bottom face of valve adjusting spacer or by measuring with a micrometer. Install replacement valve adjusting spacer that will permit specified clearance. Refer to «Specifications». Install valve adjusting spacer with numbers down. Make sure valve adjusting spacer is properly seated.

8.Release tappet holder by installing tappet compressor tool.

9.Repeat procedure for each valve by rotating crankshaft as necessary.

10.After all valve clearances are checked and/or adjusted, inspect all valve adjusting spacers to make sure that they are fully seated in their bucket valve tappets.

11.Inspect valve cover gasketsb and replace if damaged.

12.Install valve covers and intake manifold as described.

13.Connect battery ground cable.

 

[jthomas68]

woodrow:
The Machine shop was 600 bucks canadian. They drilled an 5/16 hole then used stainless pins that were set in liquid nitrogen to shrink them. This way they heat up and they expand and are guarenteed never to come loose.

This is an exact piggyback of the other thread,so i won`t get too in depth here,however i do want to comment on this statement.To say they are guarenteed to never come loose is an incorrect statement.A roll pin is,for all intended purposes,a spring.What this process would do is simply allow a pin to be forced into a tighter hole,increasing it`s clamping force outward.Whicl this is an excellent idea,the fact remains that it is still a roll pin.While there is less "give" to the pin allowing it to spring,it still does have some "give" in it by nature.

 

[woodrow]

Actually Jeremy I never said it was a roll pin. It's an oversized pin by a couple of thous. Thus shrinking it and heating the cam to expand it causes a pretty tight fit when they reach normal temprature again.

 

[woodrow]

Actually Jeremy I never said it was a roll pin. It's an oversized pin by a couple of thous. Thus shrinking it and heating the cam to expand it causes a pretty tight fit when they reach normal temprature again.

 

[jthomas68]

You are correct,i apologize.When mentioning pinning,it just naturally brought me to roll pins since it`s the commonly used practice.Do you know what size the pin is vs the size of the reamed hole?I`m just looking to satisfy my curiosity,as i beleive you`ve used a better option to the roll pin.

 

[SHO Shop]

We actually use a solid pin also, I never thought about it when calling it the "Roll-Pin Solution".

Guess it looks like it's time for a name change. thumbs_u