Would a bad CPS....?

[SHOtimer]

Ok, first yes, I have search and come up with a little but not much. Second, my car once running never stalls, performance is great, and runs fabulous. Would a bad CPS cause it to: occasionally have long cranking times( I know that one is a yes), occasion intake backfires while cranking, cause the engine to bind during cranking, and crank for a while then start but putter around 500 rpm then start to run normally?

Second question: To replace it if it is the cause is the crank pulley, crossover tube and timing covers all I have to remove? How long of a job is just the CPS, not the "while your in there"? Thanx a bunch!
Doug

 

[94mtx]

just to change the cps and reinstall everything is about 5-6 hours ish at a slow pace. but..you have to remove the timing covers and the accessory belts, so why not replace those since your right there. and add about 1-1.5 hours for the waterpump. hope this helps

jon

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The symptoms you describe are consistent with a CID (Cylinder ID) sensor (also sometimes called the CMP/Camshaft Position sensor) failure. Have you checked your codes?

 

[SHOtimer]

The CID is new, I replaced it a couple months ago trying to solve this very problem. No, their are not codes.
Doug

 

[Ishodu]

That really sounds like a Cam sensor to me.

 

[billyshoe]

SHOtimer:
The CID is new, I replaced it a couple months ago trying to solve this very problem. No, their are not codes.
Doug

the symtoms are not consistant with CPS failure/intermitant failure, check for carbon tracking inside the spark plug boot & outer plug.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You might want to review the shop manual and EVTM for the procedure to test the wiring to the CID sensor. A good sensor won't work if there's a wiring problem! Presuming you've double-checked firing order, that's the only thing I can think of that would cause symptoms identical to a typical CID sensor failure.

As a shot-in-the-dark, you could try swapping out the DIS module and coil pack with known-good ones, but where you mention the car runs fine once started I would tend to doubt either would really be the root problem.

For giggles and grins you might want to try a different PCM too, or at least disconnect and reconnect the harness. It's unusual that you're not seeing any codes, and while they rarely fail, it has happened to a handful of people. You might want to try forcing a code by running with the MAF disconnected to make sure it's able to set and store a code.

 

[SHOtimer]

Thank you all for your help. I guess from what I have been told from you that I shouldn't be worrying about my CPS. I had my mechanic replace my CID, about 4-6k ago..I don't remember exactly. So, I will replace it this weekend. What all is involved. I am aware it is an unbolt and bolt on, but what do I need to remove to make this easiest. Thank you all very much for all your help!
Doug
PS. Billyshoe, my plugs and wires are 2k old and show no carbon they look perfect.
PSS. Thanx again everybody!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

SHOtimer:
Thank you all for your help. I guess from what I have been told from you that I shouldn't be worrying about my CPS. I had my mechanic replace my CID, about 4-6k ago..I don't remember exactly. So, I will replace it this weekend. What all is involved. I am aware it is an unbolt and bolt on, but what do I need to remove to make this easiest. Thank you all very much for all your help!
Doug
PS. Billyshoe, my plugs and wires are 2k old and show no carbon they look perfect.
PSS. Thanx again everybody!

I've found the easiest way to get to the CID sensor with the least knuckle damage is to remove the crossover tube on the intake, and unbolt the PS reservoir. That usually gives you plenty of room to get in there.

 

[SHOtimer]

Thanx that is how I will try to attempt it. I ordered one from Kragen today, will be in Fri. night, so Sat. morining I will do it. I looked at my records, the one that is in there now, is 7k old. The one previous to that was only 6k old when replaced. Is this a pattern of sometype? Is it possible that it can go bad in that amount of time? Or have I just had bad luck with the last 2? Will let you know how it goes once replaced. Thanx
Doug

 

[Mr Anonymous]

SHOtimer:
Thanx that is how I will try to attempt it. I ordered one from Kragen today, will be in Fri. night, so Sat. morining I will do it. I looked at my records, the one that is in there now, is 7k old. The one previous to that was only 6k old when replaced. Is this a pattern of sometype? Is it possible that it can go bad in that amount of time? Or have I just had bad luck with the last 2? Will let you know how it goes once replaced. Thanx
Doug

Well, if the new one doesn't fix the problem it would again lead me back to a wiring issue -- quite possible the connector right at the CID. In any event, keep us posted on your progress!

<small>[ February 12, 2003, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: SHOooo ]</small>

 

[billyshoe]

New plugs & wires can go bad or be bad. just because $100+ was spent on new wires is no guarantee they are good. you would need to pull plugs out to inspect for a very thin gray/black line vertically on the porcilin from the top to the base, and inside the boot for a mating thin track that will appear lighter gray against the black boot.

 

[SHOtimer]

Billyshoe, the reason I doubt that the problem is the plugs and wires is that it did this before my 60k. I replaced the plugs and wires to hopefully fix this problem. So, since it happened before and now after it leads me to believe it is not the culprit. Do you agree with that?
Doug

 

[billyshoe]

SHOtimer:
Billyshoe, the reason I doubt that the problem is the plugs and wires is that it did this before my 60k. I replaced the plugs and wires to hopefully fix this problem. So, since it happened before and now after it leads me to believe it is not the culprit. Do you agree with that?
Doug

I say this because this was an issue I dealt with and 3000 mi. later on new plugs & wires this arcing down the boot occured again, causing missing at low & mid range rpms. To put a timing light on each plug wire may indicate a missfire if the light pulse is skipping a beat. This is a somewhat common problem on the sho.

 

[SHOtimer]

How did u solve it?
Doug

 

[billyshoe]

The car has been parked for the winter & I have'nt dealtwith it yet.I will clean out the boots w/brakeleen & a small brush & pull the plugs, clean the porcilen & inspect. I believe a boot fitment problem is a contributing factor. I am using Taylor wires. I used the dielectric grease they give you with the kit very sparingly. I will be more generous with the stuff this time. There is a thread in recent history to my suprise that twrsho sent in called "Idle problem solved ,carbon tracking". find it it has great pictures. and feed back