Won't start after replacing timing belt
- Thread starter psix
- Start date
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214 = cam sensor error
564 = fan control circuit error
528 = clutch pedal circuit error?
542 = this code is set when the engine stalls and can be ignored
214 will cause the engine to be very difficult to start as the pcm has to guess which cylinder is #1 and has a 1/3 chance of guessing correctly.
564 is generally caused by a bad fan control relay box or a bad ground to that relay box.
564 = fan control circuit error
528 = clutch pedal circuit error?
542 = this code is set when the engine stalls and can be ignored
214 will cause the engine to be very difficult to start as the pcm has to guess which cylinder is #1 and has a 1/3 chance of guessing correctly.
564 is generally caused by a bad fan control relay box or a bad ground to that relay box.
The sensor changed the camshaft, it looks like the starter died when it tries to grab, the starter doesn’t have enough power, I’ll charge the battery and keep trying.
Hard start with no Tach usually signifys bad Camshaft Sensor. The 214 points in that direction too.
-Chad
-Chad
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
214: CID Circuit fault. Either the camshaft sensor wasn't plugged in or has failed, probably because the seal behind it has failed and oil has contaminated the sensor. Run you finger along the bottom of the sensor to check. Hence no tach.
The other codes can be ignored for now. The 542 could have been caused by stalling at a light. The 528 was caused by using a remote starter attached to the starter solenoid.
From your video at work, it sounds like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. Could be a bad plug or wire, given the list of codes generated.
The other codes can be ignored for now. The 542 could have been caused by stalling at a light. The 528 was caused by using a remote starter attached to the starter solenoid.
From your video at work, it sounds like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. Could be a bad plug or wire, given the list of codes generated.
luigisho
SHO Member
Agree so far regarding the codes. Backfiring could be a mismatch of fuel and air with ether or whatever was sprayed. However, backfiring can also be caused by vacuum leaks and timing being off. Being out of time can account for more than one issue. If it ran ok before the belt broke and now it does not, then something is wrong with the repair or something else was damaged. Many of us have had to retrace all our steps and redo a repair we thought was solid when we first did it.
I would start with cam sensor replacement then making sure the intake is fully seated and sealed ( you should loosen the couplers on the runners and get a good seal on the head mating surface, then tighten the couplers again. Taking it off in one piece-it can flex just a little to make the seal compromised) also look for small pinched hoses up top like near the rear of the intake. I have had all these things happen to me making repairs.
Then double check spark plug wire routing. Easy to mix those up. Then down to the timing area. Nobody likes redoing work but sometimes you have to dig back in.
I would start with cam sensor replacement then making sure the intake is fully seated and sealed ( you should loosen the couplers on the runners and get a good seal on the head mating surface, then tighten the couplers again. Taking it off in one piece-it can flex just a little to make the seal compromised) also look for small pinched hoses up top like near the rear of the intake. I have had all these things happen to me making repairs.
Then double check spark plug wire routing. Easy to mix those up. Then down to the timing area. Nobody likes redoing work but sometimes you have to dig back in.
I don’t understand how to check the camshaft sensor with a finger? From the wires, the generator chip is in bad condition, but I tried cleaning it. Once I didn’t put the generator chip on all the way and couldn’t start the car, it spun but didn’t grab.
yes, thank you! I looked at everything, all the vacuum hoses, maybe the manifold needs to be tightened more, the gaskets are made of iron, what will happen to them?
luigisho
SHO Member
Do not over tighten anything on top. All the fasteners and threads in the head are soft and you can shear the bolt or mess up the threads. You have to take the intake off, make sure the middle of the intake is mating flush, you can get a tacky spray for gaskets and spray it on the intake gaskets if you want, then tighten nice and snug not super tight. Same is even more true for the valve covers. Those things break if you sneeze on them.
Yes, when I removed the valve covers, I coated them with gasket sealant. Actually, because of this, the belt broke, the gasket leaked oil right into the place where the belt was, it was completely soaked in oil.
luigisho
SHO Member
with valve cover seals you only need to use rtv in the corners where the Ω half circle meets the flats. It is not uncommon for a section of the seal to roll out of place when installing.
Yes, it was in this semicircle that the oil was pouring, I hope I start it and the oil will no longer flow from there.
guys, I installed a camshaft sensor, on which the car drove without problems, before the belt broke, I couldn’t start it at all, I tried to start it for about 30 minutes, there were no more popping noises. It’s strange that when the engine tries to start, the starter or battery drains, that is, it starts to grab something and sag and the lights go out and the tachometer needle jumps.
I unscrewed two spark plugs, they are dry, as I understand it, they must be wet from gasoline?
I unscrewed two spark plugs, they are dry, as I understand it, they must be wet from gasoline?
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and I turned the starter for a very long time, about three weeks. Plus yesterday the engine started and ran.
Should I remove the manifold again and check everything?
no more ideas yet.
luigisho
SHO Member
Started and ran to the point of idling normally and able to be driven it or ran and stalled out?
a day ago it started, where I also attached a video of how it works without a tachometer. Today I tried it, it didn’t start.
When the engine starts to start, the voltage drops sharply, exactly when the low rpms start.
Maybe the starter can no longer turn under load?spins well when empty.
can, of course, try to push it and start it, but I have little faith in that.
Well,the pressure in the rail was about 3 bar, the bolt on the dis was twisted. For fuel, only this hose was removed when the manifold was removed.
I can’t figure out if there’s a problem with the battery or the starter? There’s a video demonstration.
drive.google.com
I can’t figure out if there’s a problem with the battery or the starter? There’s a video demonstration.
IMG_5830.MOV
drive.google.com
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