Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
214 = cam sensor error
564 = fan control circuit error
528 = clutch pedal circuit error?
542 = this code is set when the engine stalls and can be ignored
214 will cause the engine to be very difficult to start as the pcm has to guess which cylinder is #1 and has a 1/3 chance of guessing correctly.
564 is generally caused by a bad fan control relay box or a bad ground to that relay box.
I don’t understand how to check the camshaft sensor with a finger? From the wires, the generator chip is in bad condition, but I tried cleaning it. Once I didn’t put the generator chip on all the way and couldn’t start the car, it spun but didn’t grab.214: CID Circuit fault. Either the camshaft sensor wasn't plugged in or has failed, probably because the seal behind it has failed and oil has contaminated the sensor. Run you finger along the bottom of the sensor to check. Hence no tach.
The other codes can be ignored for now. The 542 could have been caused by stalling at a light. The 528 was caused by using a remote starter attached to the starter solenoid.
From your video at work, it sounds like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. Could be a bad plug or wire, given the list of codes generated.
yes, thank you! I looked at everything, all the vacuum hoses, maybe the manifold needs to be tightened more, the gaskets are made of iron, what will happen to them?Agree so far regarding the codes. Backfiring could be a mismatch of fuel and air with ether or whatever was sprayed. However, backfiring can also be caused by vacuum leaks and timing being off. Being out of time can account for more than one issue. If it ran ok before the belt broke and now it does not, then something is wrong with the repair or something else was damaged. Many of us have had to retrace all our steps and redo a repair we thought was solid when we first did it.
I would start with cam sensor replacement then making sure the intake is fully seated and sealed ( you should loosen the couplers on the runners and get a good seal on the head mating surface, then tighten the couplers again. Taking it off in one piece-it can flex just a little to make the seal compromised) also look for small pinched hoses up top like near the rear of the intake. I have had all these things happen to me making repairs.
Then double check spark plug wire routing. Easy to mix those up. Then down to the timing area. Nobody likes redoing work but sometimes you have to dig back in.
Yes, when I removed the valve covers, I coated them with gasket sealant. Actually, because of this, the belt broke, the gasket leaked oil right into the place where the belt was, it was completely soaked in oil.Do not over tighten anything on top. All the fasteners and threads in the head are soft and you can shear the bolt or mess up the threads. You have to take the intake off, make sure the middle of the intake is mating flush, you can get a tacky spray for gaskets and spray it on the intake gaskets if you want, then tighten nice and snug not super tight. Same is even more true for the valve covers. Those things break if you sneeze on them.
Yes, it was in this semicircle that the oil was pouring, I hope I start it and the oil will no longer flow from there.with valve cover seals you only need to use rtv in the corners where the Ω half circle meets the flats. It is not uncommon for a section of the seal to roll out of place when installing.
and I turned the starter for a very long time, about three weeks. Plus yesterday the engine started and ran.If you had been trying to start it for a while and the plugs look like that, then the injectors are not firing correctly.
How long has this car been sitting without running?
a day ago it started, where I also attached a video of how it works without a tachometer. Today I tried it, it didn’t start.Started and ran to the point of idling normally and able to be driven it or ran and stalled out?