Who still tunes second gen SHO's?

BluTyger

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The front tires with slop may be wheel bearings. Make sure the wheel is on at correct tightness, jack up the end to be tested, grab the wheel at 6&12 and 3&9 push and pull to see if there is movement at the center. These cars have a press fit bearing and not just a bolt in and out wheel bearing. You might need a press or shadetree setup to pound it out and in with replacement. I would look at shosource for most items. They usually have good sourced replacement parts and upgraded parts. Solid mounts will transfer alot of NVH - noise vibration harshness. They may have reinforced ones with some urethane or other polymer to help reduce vibrations. Struts are hard to decide what is good as all the really good ones aren't really made anymore. My main pet peeve about these cars now is strut choices. Look at the strut mounts and you could add those to the list of spending money...

For larger brakes you have to check for clearance of the oem wheels and decide based on that. You can source alot of the parts yourself or buy a kit. There are alot of how to's on the forum for this kind of stuff. Based on rust, and whether you have power tools, all this may involve alot of cursing.
Per your suggestion, I started looking at SHOsource and I found front spindles. I an assuming those are what I should be replacing?
As for the motor mounts, I think your idea is better, since I'm not racing it yet, just daily driving it.
For struts, I think Jegs have some that should fit.
I was looking at a set of 17 inch rims, so I can do smaller tires. That should give me more clearance for brakes, right?
 

luigisho

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Yeah I forgot about the spindles on the earlier v6 SHo's. That really increases the cost of the larger brakes. 17s will give you enough room for most upgrades. You really need to get the offset and width correct. The older car rear quarters have less room to go outward and can be an issue, especially since most of these cars also suffer from saggy a-ss syndrome. The rear spirings sag over time and the back is lower. Do some searching in the archives. I had to deal with this for my first car which was a '90 wayy back. I made a mess of that car with larger rims and rust on the lip of both rear quarters. DIY flaring the wheel wells at the edges doesn't really work as well as someone might describe it. Chad (Irish Pride) has owned a few early cars. I'm sure his memory and input would be helpful on this.

AS an aside, you have to watch how low profile you want tires as they can make the wheel itself take a pounding. You can break a wheel with potholes and such as a regular drive around car. Been there done that with wheels that were long discontinued and almost impossible to replace. Very pis sed off learning experience
 

BluTyger

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Yeah I forgot about the spindles on the earlier v6 SHo's. That really increases the cost of the larger brakes. 17s will give you enough room for most upgrades. You really need to get the offset and width correct. The older car rear quarters have less room to go outward and can be an issue, especially since most of these cars also suffer from saggy a-ss syndrome. The rear spirings sag over time and the back is lower. Do some searching in the archives. I had to deal with this for my first car which was a '90 wayy back. I made a mess of that car with larger rims and rust on the lip of both rear quarters. DIY flaring the wheel wells at the edges doesn't really work as well as someone might describe it. Chad (Irish Pride) has owned a few early cars. I'm sure his memory and input would be helpful on this.

AS an aside, you have to watch how low profile you want tires as they can make the wheel itself take a pounding. You can break a wheel with potholes and such as a regular drive around car. Been there done that with wheels that were long discontinued and almost impossible to replace. Very pis sed off learning experience
Why would spindles make the cost higher? I'm not sure what spindles are beyond like, a bearing assembly with an ABS sensor in them?
I'm also not sure about the offset and width, but I understand that if I get enough offset to clear the strut, then I can go a little bit bigger, right? And how important is the width? Is there a min-max beyond common sense?

Looking at Jegs, they seem to have some coilovers that, at a glance, should fit. I dont think I'd like to flare the fenders either. Should I DM Chad and ask him more questions?
I'm assuming by how low profile the tire is, how short the sidewall is? Since there's less air and less squish
 

luigisho

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The brake upgrades were designed to use the 94-95 spindles (or 93? I forget the change year). If you already have that year of car you don't have to upgrade spindles, so that is a few hundred $ less from the beginning.
The clearing struts without hitting the outward sheet metal is a concern. I usually used 7-7.5 width wheels and the offset is also important. I bought some used wheels from another sho owner years ago and while the width of the wheel/tire is correct I think I have an issue with the tire hitting the strut perch (where the spring sits) on deep compression. When I get it back on the road I think I will go back to oem wheels.
I thought Chad would have popped in by now so if you want to DM that will work. You know how it works on here right? BTW the facebook is supposed to be very active and you might get some quick responses over there also
 

BluTyger

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Ah, okay. I do have the 93, so I'll have to check when I check the crank position sensor. I ran into the same problem with the rear (which is suffering from saggy a-ss) until I looked closer and found that I was given 215/65 tires instead of the 215/60.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "how it works on here" but I'm assuming that my ignorance on your meaning indicates enough that I don't know. I also didn't know about the Facebook, is that a group I can join or something?
 

luigisho

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I'm not on facebook so I don't have details but I do know there is a SHO group on there and it was stated that it is active and a good resource. As to 'how it works' I just noticed that you are a newer member and didn't know if you already figured out the direct message system on the forum with the envelope icon at top right. Calls them conversations or something-- same as DM
 

BluTyger

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Ah, makes sense. Well, I'll have to do some searching for Facebook groups. I'm not on there often at all, but maybe that'll give me a reason to. It makes sense, knowing that older folks are on Facebook. Anyone my age doesn't care about the SHO it seems. Kids my age like the popular JDM type stuff I think. Thanks for the advice on the DM workings, as I haven't investigated it
 

luigisho

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If you use the search function (search forums) at the top headers in color. A search for Facebook might pull up a thread with the group address/link. It was posted many times in the past, sometimes in the middle of a thread. Might make locating it easier. Or maybe just a facebook or google search might be even faster. There is alot of overlap from here and there. There are many members who prefer that platform and come here less frequently so it's good to have a wide net when you need specific items or info
 

NoSlo

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I've been looking at everything on Jegs atm, and it looks like they'll have stiffer subframe bushings. I'd also like to get a really good radiator because I live in the Colorado desert, but I don't know how to pick one.

When I replaced the front tires, they were a little wiggly. I think I'll do all the bushings, as well as some new struts if I could. Then I could get some 17s for larger rotors and calipers, right? Although I really like the look of the original slicer wheels.

Should I get solid motor mounts?

A motor mount change will only add vibration and harshness. You can check to see if the engine excessively twists when you give it gas in drive while holding the brakes. ATX mount is a rare thing, used, from the days of a SHO ever going to a wrecking yard.

You should make the suspension 100% before you consider these countless "mods" you are posting about. Tight inner and outer tie rods, tight ball joint in the lower control arm, and fresh bushings on the front and back control arm strut rods. Inspect the metal front strut rod cups for any play, they can come loose and need to be welded or have moog problem solvers installed to replace the front mount in the subframe. Any jiggle when you grab top and bottom of the wheel: wheel bearing. Sway bar bushings and stabilizer bar end links (for front use Ford 2011-2014 Mustang links and nuts and grind the hex end off of them)

Then the mods are to make the car alignable. Replace upper strut mount with adjustable mount, and grind the plate tack welds so the struts can be aligned. Replace upper bearing when the struts are apart. There are no new struts any better than a plain Taurus now. Then the rear arms only have two pivots with adjustment cams, raid a u-pull with Tauruses and put adjustment cams on all the arms (cheaper than adjustable arms). The rear droops? It needs Moog cargo coils with a loop cut off.

Now we can do brakes. Front upgrade to "G3 SHO" is also an upgrade to stock 2000-2006 setup. You need 94-95 knuckles, hubs, and calipers, a good time to get new wheel bearings. The FN74 brake bracket. Then you can fit the new 12.1" discs of a 2001 Taurus. Replace the rubber brake hoses all around. Get a 2000-2006 spare tire that will fit over the brakes also.

You are now tired of working on the SHO - and still have a whole engine, AC system to R134, steering rack, cooling system etc to get to 100% with all new seals and hoses.
 

luigisho

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You are now tired of working on the SHO - and still have a whole engine, AC system to R134, steering rack, cooling system etc to get to 100% with all new seals and hoses.
Ha ha. BTDT plenty. Sometimes I'm tired of working on it by just looking at it knowing what maintenance needs to be done
 

BluTyger

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A motor mount change will only add vibration and harshness. You can check to see if the engine excessively twists when you give it gas in drive while holding the brakes. ATX mount is a rare thing, used, from the days of a SHO ever going to a wrecking yard.

You should make the suspension 100% before you consider these countless "mods" you are posting about. Tight inner and outer tie rods, tight ball joint in the lower control arm, and fresh bushings on the front and back control arm strut rods. Inspect the metal front strut rod cups for any play, they can come loose and need to be welded or have moog problem solvers installed to replace the front mount in the subframe. Any jiggle when you grab top and bottom of the wheel: wheel bearing. Sway bar bushings and stabilizer bar end links (for front use Ford 2011-2014 Mustang links and nuts and grind the hex end off of them)

Then the mods are to make the car alignable. Replace upper strut mount with adjustable mount, and grind the plate tack welds so the struts can be aligned. Replace upper bearing when the struts are apart. There are no new struts any better than a plain Taurus now. Then the rear arms only have two pivots with adjustment cams, raid a u-pull with Tauruses and put adjustment cams on all the arms (cheaper than adjustable arms). The rear droops? It needs Moog cargo coils with a loop cut off.

Now we can do brakes. Front upgrade to "G3 SHO" is also an upgrade to stock 2000-2006 setup. You need 94-95 knuckles, hubs, and calipers, a good time to get new wheel bearings. The FN74 brake bracket. Then you can fit the new 12.1" discs of a 2001 Taurus. Replace the rubber brake hoses all around. Get a 2000-2006 spare tire that will fit over the brakes also.

You are now tired of working on the SHO - and still have a whole engine, AC system to R134, steering rack, cooling system etc to get to 100% with all new seals and hoses.
Dang, that's a lot of work I got cut out for me. I should honestly make a list so I can check things off or something. But yeah, the only suspension problem I have ATM is the saggy booty droop, but I'm sure that can change at any moment. I was looking at the KYB strut assembly on RockAuto, just to get the whole thing replaced if you think that'd work. I'm sure the rest of the control arms, bushings, and sway bars can come from SHOsource, right?

If my 93 has the more expensive, smaller spindles that can't just have the bigger brakes, can I get newer spindles that'll handle bigger brakes? Also, what is a brake bracket? Is that what the calipers and rotors mount to?

Should I do the suspension before or after the 60k? And how much does it typically cost to convert the R12 to R134?
 

NoSlo

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Dang, that's a lot of work I got cut out for me. I should honestly make a list so I can check things off or something. But yeah, the only suspension problem I have ATM is the saggy booty droop, but I'm sure that can change at any moment. I was looking at the KYB strut assembly on RockAuto, just to get the whole thing replaced if you think that'd work. I'm sure the rest of the control arms, bushings, and sway bars can come from SHOsource, right?

If my 93 has the more expensive, smaller spindles that can't just have the bigger brakes, can I get newer spindles that'll handle bigger brakes? Also, what is a brake bracket? Is that what the calipers and rotors mount to?

Should I do the suspension before or after the 60k? And how much does it typically cost to convert the R12 to R134?

You can put on all new quickstruts, but the springs will be softer than the SHO. The Moog K8822 camber plate replaces the top strut mount, but you can see if the camber/caster needs tweaking first (low SHOs always do).

If you have a 93, you'll need all the parts mentioned for a brake upgrade. Best if you have a u-pull wrecking yard with a variety of Tauruses, you can mix and match the parts to make the kit in the yard, from these donors:

From an old post, here is the parts list and various Ford models that can provide them.
THESE ARE ALL CONFIRMED
*****FN74 CALIPER BRACKET*****

96-99 SHO
01-07 TAURUS
95-99 Continental
93-98 Mark VIII.......(not stamped FN74 but will work)

*****CALIPERS*****
94-07 TAURUS/SABLE/SHO
95-02 CONTINENTAL
93-98 MARK VIII

********SPINDLE(KNUCKLE)/HUB ASSEMBLY********
94/95 TAURUS/SABLE/SHO with ABS (Only cars with 4W disk brakes came with ABS)
93/94 CONTINENTAL

*******ROTOR*******
96-99 SHO
01-07 Taurus/Sable
95-02 Continental


**********Caliper Bolts*******
Comes in a packet of 4. Ford part N807146-S103
These are discontinued (what else is new), but I have seen them on ebay. If you pull brackets off an '01+ leave the bolts, they're too long!!! I bought my bolts new, but I'm pretty sure the correct ones will need to come off one of the '99 or earlier cars listed for brackets.


If this is an automatic transmission 1993, get a 94-95 D4U1 computer to firm up the shifts and make it last 330k miles.

The minimum to convert to R134a, which you don't need to do until it's not blowing R12 cold (99% chance it's leaked out after 30 years), is to replace all the o-rings in the system with compatible green ones (buy a big kit of rings), and replace the dryer/accumulator. Then a nitrogen flush, emptying the oil out of the compressor, vacuum the system down for an hour, and refill with R12+R134a compatible oil and the correct refrigerant charge. You can do it all yourself if you use loan-a-tool gauge set and vacuum pump (although a shop might fill it better without air getting in since they don't have to use little cans). Check that the system has not already been converted and still has old tire-valve looking ports on the dryer.


For the 60k services (top and front): The spark plugs and wires you can change any time. You can also just test the wires with a multimeter (or by the fact it isn't misfiring), they last a long time if not soaked in oil. Get the original double platinum plugs from Green Sales Company, the last place to have them. Wires are like the water pump and crank position sensor change at 60k - they are not really required until they die (or start leaking water), as this is not a 747 that will fall out of the sky and kill hundreds.

The cam and crank seals will be due. The plug well gaskets and valve cover gaskets will be due. Oil leaking out the front, out the back, or into the spark plug wells is the symptom. At 100k, it's probably never had the valve shims checked, at the very least you can get feeler gauges, check the clearances, and see if any shim service is actually required.

(heh, just realized I have an extra 1995 knuckle in my trunk that needs a wheel bearing or a core deposit back.)

(also the shower thought: the only thing "1993" still is my black door handles on oxford white with white slicers. 1989 SHO springs up front, 1999 SHO brakes, 1999 SHO struts in back...)
 
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luigisho

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The sagging is the springs not the struts unless you are talking about quickstruts with spring included.

Love that reposted info above.

Yes make a list so you can make a plan to minimize duplication of work and to form a realistic budget of time and money. For money add another 1/3 to what you think and for time estimates multiply by 2-3 for first run throughs/learning curve.
 

BluTyger

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Thanks, guys. I'll write myself up a document, then hit some junkyards and SHOsource. See what I can piece together. It's pretty tempting to get straight into engine performance stuff since I want to race my buddy and show him what's what, but i know now that the important stuff is what keeps me on the road first. Thanks for all your knowledge. I hope to know the car from front to back
 

luigisho

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Lol. What's what is you got what you got-- and it's not going to go much faster without making it into something it isn't. Key tip to having a fast car is to purchase a fast car. These were very quick for 1989 when they came out. same basic automobile through 95. Performance in even regular automobiles has come a long long way since then. They are cool low number cars. Don't go broke trying to get a big 12hp increase at the top of the powerband where you will likely hit an intersection before you get to use it for any amount of time
 

BluTyger

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That's fair. It handles pretty good, especially compared to the 2005 Yukon I've been driving for two years. I'd like to get the handling better, and the cooling better, since that's the environment I live in. Southestern Colorado has the drunkest weather, I swear. I'm sure the best acceleration I'm going to get is in the manual. How difficult would it be for me to swap the automatic tranny for the manual?
 

luigisho

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It's a bigger project than I wanted to tackle. I considered it since more auto cars were available when I was looking for another (my current one) SHO 10 yrs ago. I looked at some of the writeups on conversion and decided it would be easier and (cars were much less$ then) cheaper to get a 3.0 car and swap a 3.2 into it. It can be done but I would not do it. Search for some older posts and see if it is something you would be comfortable doing
 

thegreatbriguy

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I've been looking at everything on Jegs atm, and it looks like they'll have stiffer subframe bushings. I'd also like to get a really good radiator because I live in the Colorado desert, but I don't know how to pick one.

When I replaced the front tires, they were a little wiggly. I think I'll do all the bushings, as well as some new struts if I could. Then I could get some 17s for larger rotors and calipers, right? Although I really like the look of the original slicer wheels.

Should I get solid motor mounts?
Get the all aluminum radiator from ebay. it has like 20%more cooling and it doesn't leak at the plastic end caps. I think its about $140
 

BluTyger

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It's a bigger project than I wanted to tackle. I considered it since more auto cars were available when I was looking for another (my current one) SHO 10 yrs ago. I looked at some of the writeups on conversion and decided it would be easier and (cars were much less$ then) cheaper to get a 3.0 car and swap a 3.2 into it. It can be done but I would not do it. Search for some older posts and see if it is something you would be comfortable doing
At some point, once I have the funds, I might give it a shot
 

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