Whining noise/grinding when accelerating? (Video included)

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Alexthegr81

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So some of your helped out on a members other thread about an issue he was having similar to mine but figured I wouldn’t detract from his post and make my own about current issue I’m experiencing.

It’s an 2010 Taurus SHO w/ 106k miles (purchased in June of this year with 100k) and besides my brake booster failing on me (anyone know where to best purchase a replacement one?) I’m having a strange whining sound when I accelerate and starts being audible at around 30ish and when I let off the gas and starts to slow down in gets louder including a grinding like noise, I recorded a video for reference to what I’m referring to.

Anyone know what might be the culprit that’s causing this?

Here’s my video I took of the issue:

2010 Ford Taurus Sho Whine
 

luigisho

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You have a ford part number? I would look at places like Tasca and others for oem parts. Alot of the time you can find free shipping from them for the same part on amazon or ebay.
 

Alexthegr81

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You have a ford part number? I would look at places like Tasca and others for oem parts. Alot of the time you can find free shipping from them for the same part on amazon or ebay.
Sorry I’m kind of confused by your question. I don’t know what the problem is that’s making the sound which is what I’m trying to figure out, unless you were referring to the brake booster part of my post lol I could go get one I suppose at a auto parts store but not sure how bad it would be to install a new brake booster, if there’s any videos or write ups please point me in that direction
 

kryptto

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@Alexthegr81 I accidentally posted this in the wrong thread this AM:

Could be, and hopefully others agree, bearing whine and the subsequent grind of them failing. Is there any vibrations? Here is a video that will help diagnose that issue,


Or even worse, the PTU can be whining, and I am afraid it's more than 100% chance it hasn't ever been serviced, unless in the last 6k miles you read the maintenance post here and had the rear and ptu oil replaced.

Hopefully bearings, more than likely PTU.
 

Deezuz

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Any updates?

Remove the fill plug and show us the debris on it
 

Alexthegr81

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Any updates?

Remove the fill plug and show us the debris on it
Apologies for going MIA for a while, recently lost my job so haven’t had the funds to pay for the stuff to get it officially diagnosed.
That being said I’m actually thinking it could possibly be my drivers side front wheel bearing. I noticed about 2 weeks after getting the SHO that the front drivers side tire was mounted on BACKWARDS and that would make sense as to why I’m having an odd noise coming from that general area.
I’m planning on going down to get it replaced with another tire (the correct direction though this time ) and also have the wheel bearing inspected while I’m at it.

Will follow up by this evening if not sooner with the results.
 

SHOdded

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Apologies for going MIA for a while, recently lost my job so haven’t had the funds to pay for the stuff to get it officially diagnosed.
That being said I’m actually thinking it could possibly be my drivers side front wheel bearing. I noticed about 2 weeks after getting the SHO that the front drivers side tire was mounted on BACKWARDS and that would make sense as to why I’m having an odd noise coming from that general area.
I’m planning on going down to get it replaced with another tire (the correct direction though this time ) and also have the wheel bearing inspected while I’m at it.

Will follow up by this evening if not sooner with the results.
sorry to hear about your job hope u are able get a new one soon!
 

Alexthegr81

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Well I suppose it’s been a while since I gave any updates, that being said, here’s what’s gone on.
I went ahead and decided to do the tap and drill method of installing an actual drain plug on the bottom of the PTU as using the suction pump to transfer fluid wasn’t working at all; I could hardly get the hose down the PTU cavity far enough to suck up a decent amount of gear oil.
I took my time to research the exact parts and tools I needed and after some trial and error I was able to install one, but it has an ever so slight leak where I put it and I tightened the bolt as far as I could get it to seal the leak all the way through.

Unfortunately even with all the old oil out (nasty dark oil with many shiny metal flakes on PTU oil fill magnetic plug and fresh synthetic 75w140 gear oil it still made the clunky, grinding whining noise during acceleration and since it is leaking that oil out it just sounds progressively worse :-/ all of this and I STILL have a failing brake booster which is a PITA to use it in stop and go traffic as I have to basically lean at a 45 degree angle and put my body weight into it when I have to slow down and stop.

So at least I’m 99.9% sure that was the problem all along and it couldn’t be worse timing as I lost my job somewhat recently and fell behind slightly on payments which included a extended warranty but after X amount of days without payment they (unbeknownst to me/nor communicated this before hand) cancelled my warranty on the SHO which could have been used to fix my PTU and any other issues going on (I also noticed I have some oil leaking at the rear turbo but can’t tell if from oil supply line or the turbine housing) so that’s yet another expensive repair that needs to be addressed and having zero income at the moment is causing me some serious stressing out.
 

kryptto

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Well I suppose it’s been a while since I gave any updates, that being said, here’s what’s gone on.
I went ahead and decided to do the tap and drill method of installing an actual drain plug on the bottom of the PTU as using the suction pump to transfer fluid wasn’t working at all; I could hardly get the hose down the PTU cavity far enough to suck up a decent amount of gear oil.
I took my time to research the exact parts and tools I needed and after some trial and error I was able to install one, but it has an ever so slight leak where I put it and I tightened the bolt as far as I could get it to seal the leak all the way through.

Unfortunately even with all the old oil out (nasty dark oil with many shiny metal flakes on PTU oil fill magnetic plug and fresh synthetic 75w140 gear oil it still made the clunky, grinding whining noise during acceleration and since it is leaking that oil out it just sounds progressively worse :-/ all of this and I STILL have a failing brake booster which is a PITA to use it in stop and go traffic as I have to basically lean at a 45 degree angle and put my body weight into it when I have to slow down and stop.

So at least I’m 99.9% sure that was the problem all along and it couldn’t be worse timing as I lost my job somewhat recently and fell behind slightly on payments which included a extended warranty but after X amount of days without payment they (unbeknownst to me/nor communicated this before hand) cancelled my warranty on the SHO which could have been used to fix my PTU and any other issues going on (I also noticed I have some oil leaking at the rear turbo but can’t tell if from oil supply line or the turbine housing) so that’s yet another expensive repair that needs to be addressed and having zero income at the moment is causing me some serious stressing out.
First, very sorry to hear of your current situation, this too will pass, and you will get going again. It does sound like the PTU is on its way out. Shame you put in the drain plug, first seems like an unfortunate result even in light of the effort.

For an inexpensive option try this site to find parts near you - cutout the markup from shops: https://car-part.com/

The worst part is - like my father used to say - better to maintain your car in order to keep a job. I feel your pain when my car is needing work.
 

Alexthegr81

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First, very sorry to hear of your current situation, this too will pass, and you will get going again. It does sound like the PTU is on its way out. Shame you put in the drain plug, first seems like an unfortunate result even in light of the effort.

For an inexpensive option try this site to find parts near you - cutout the markup from shops: https://car-part.com/

The worst part is - like my father used to say - better to maintain your car in order to keep a job. I feel your pain when my car is needing work.
I truly appreciate your feedback and support you’ve offered, just wanted to thank you for actually helping in anyway possible, as far as working on a vehicle over the interwebz goes but it does not go unnoticed.
Thank you for that link, I’ll definitely be having to try to save up money for a new PTU and Brake Booster.

That being said…is it possible or worthwhile to try swapping out the PTU on my own/with a friends help, or would it be better off to have a mechanic shop do it?
Same goes for the brake booster, although I did find a writeup and walkthrough on how to replace the BB in your driveway but not sure if I want to tackle it that way or not.
 

kryptto

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That being said…is it possible or worthwhile to try swapping out the PTU on my own/with a friends help, or would it be better off to have a mechanic shop do it?
 

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  • Power Transfer Unit (PTU) Draining and Filling (Transfer Case) - ALLDATA diy.PDF
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SHOrod

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Whether or not you are able to tackle either of these jobs will depend a lot on the space you have available to work on the car, the tools you have available, and your comfort level when working on complex vehicles. I have not changed out the brake booster so I can't speak so much to that, but I did change out my PTU. While it was not as difficult as I was expecting it to be, and I did it solo, it did require an array of tools and was made easier by having two stable floor jacks since I ended up having to drop the sub-frame. That saved A LOT of time over trying to snake it in/out. I'm actually not sure I would have been able to change it without dropping the sub-frame. If you have not spent quite a bit of time wrenching on cars, I'd recommend that you have someone swap the PTU that has a well-equipped shop or garage.

-Rod
 

SHOdded

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as long as the shadetree mechanics are mechanically inclined, diy is possible.

account for the space, extra time, parts, tools, etc. book time is 5-6 hours in a perfect scenario.

with brake booster, typically you can move the master cylinder aside enough to not have to disconnect the brake lines and get the bb out. true on the edge, hopefully on the taurus as well.
 

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  • 2014 sho ptu R&I.PDF
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Alexthegr81

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Appreciate all the help and resources everyone has provided, I ended getting it towed over to a place here in Phoenix, Az called Central Car Care and minus the several other problems they’ve spotted (leaking cv axle, front and rear struts, etc.) the PTU is toast and they want $1800 for the PTU unit itself and another $1100 for the labor to install it and so basically it comes to $3097.45 to get a new PTU installed. It does come with a 2 year/ 24k mile warranty but I can literally find one for 1/3 the price but unfortunately they don’t accept customer provided parts so that’s where I’m at currently. My tax return can only cover so much, and this is unfortunately one of several things, hopefully this alone would get it drivable.
 

Alexthegr81

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as long as the shadetree mechanics are mechanically inclined, diy is possible.

account for the space, extra time, parts, tools, etc. book time is 5-6 hours in a perfect scenario.

with brake booster, typically you can move the master cylinder aside enough to not have to disconnect the brake lines and get the bb out. true on the edge, hopefully on the taurus as well.
Thanks for the info I’m definitely gonna check into it once I get my PTU situation figured out, appreciate it!
 

Alexthegr81

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Whether or not you are able to tackle either of these jobs will depend a lot on the space you have available to work on the car, the tools you have available, and your comfort level when working on complex vehicles. I have not changed out the brake booster so I can't speak so much to that, but I did change out my PTU. While it was not as difficult as I was expecting it to be, and I did it solo, it did require an array of tools and was made easier by having two stable floor jacks since I ended up having to drop the sub-frame. That saved A LOT of time over trying to snake it in/out. I'm actually not sure I would have been able to change it without dropping the sub-frame. If you have not spent quite a bit of time wrenching on cars, I'd recommend that you have someone swap the PTU that has a well-equipped shop or garage.

-Rod
Thank you Rod that’s definitely comforting to know that it is possible, only problem is being able to find someone trustworthy and willing to do the work as I can supply the PTU but honestly I have the luck of Al Bundy so I’m going to forgo on the solo mission of fixing it myself
 

Deezuz

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I'm also willing to bet it's a cheap repop... I'd maybe get second opinion irnatnleast more info on the parts being used.
 
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