what're my options?

[SuperHO]

Okay.....got a Spec Stage II in my car right now with about 45k miles on it. The TOB that came with the clutch kit is crap and starting to make some very bad noises. To top that off, my rear main seal decided it wanted to start ******* oil. So it looks like i'm gonna have to seperate the engine from the tranny sometime soon. Figure while I'm spending the money to have someone take the clutch off to replace the rear main, I might as well replace the damn thing.

Now....I don't want a clutchmasters Stage I. Don't try to talk me into it. I hate them and will never use another one.

Here's my mod list...


3.2 w/ 3.0 cams
73mm MAF
Doug Lewis tuned Superchip
UDPs
gutted airbox
Walbro 155
ported runners

Going by that, what would be a good clutch for the budget minded individual. I can't really see a stocker lasting that long or holding that well, so i'm pretty well assuming an aftermarket clutch is in order. Bear in mind that I'm not made of money, and am on a rather tight budget.

So...what're my options?

 

[qiksho]

Personally I would put a stock clutch in with an upgraded TOB. I have had no problems with them, and you aren't making much over stock power. They seem to have the least amount of problems and the best pedal feel....not to mention will be the cheapest

Seems I recall a post a while back about your left knee not liking the clutch so much anymore....

 

[jayro]

I have heard alot of good things about South Bend clutch. They have a few different options avialible depending on what you want.

Jeremy

 

[SuperHO]

Yeah...my left knee ain't the fondest of ANY cable operated clutch (i've felt some hydraulic clutches that feel mighty fine, though).


Trailing off a little....what's the possibilities that my oil pan gasket's sprung a leak back there and my rear main seal's still happy? Any way to check this without dropping the pan?


Anyone wanna trade me an auto SHO, V6 or V8 for a damn fine running 95 MTX???

 

[TimboSHO]

Yeah...my left knee ain't the fondest of ANY cable operated clutch (i've felt some hydraulic clutches that feel mighty fine, though).


Trailing off a little....what's the possibilities that my oil pan gasket's sprung a leak back there and my rear main seal's still happy? Any way to check this without dropping the pan?


Anyone wanna trade me an auto SHO, V6 or V8 for a damn fine running 95 MTX???

The only way to tell if the oil pan or the rear seal is leaking would be to remove the trans.
I'll trade you if I ever get my red 94 running

Edit: and I would go for stock as well, I can get them for about $200 if you're interested....

 

[SuperHO]

you have my attention....does that include the good TOB? Rev B, i believe? Or should I bite the bullet and throw a SHONut TOB in there with a stock clutch and call it good?

 

[TimboSHO]

I would still upgrade the TOB

 

[SASHO91]

www.clutchnet.com

 

[Phoenix]

Whatever you buy , grab the SHONUT Ceramic TOB.

I would consider the Centerforce one if youre not interested into the CM series.

 

[SuperHO]

keep in mind that I am on a budget...if I could afford it, I'd throw another Spec Stage II in there, cuz I liked it. How much is the centerforce one, and where can I find it?

 

[Phoenix]

keep in mind that I am on a budget...if I could afford it, I'd throw another Spec Stage II in there, cuz I liked it. How much is the centerforce one, and where can I find it?

it's in the 550$ area , so yea if you're on a budget - that thing is not cheap.
RCM sells it , but on the centerforce website you can have it there too.

All the choices about clutches are here only one missing in there is the Spec. I dont want to advertise for him (rcm) but it's the only website where you see most of sho clutches in one place.

 

[87hurricane]

I know you're already against it, but I'll put another thumbs down on the Clutchmasters. I just put a Stage 1 in my car, and I've got a couple issues with it.
1. The friction point is near the top of the clutch pedal travel..on a brand new clutch...I'm thinking its only a matter of time before it wears enough to start slipping. I'm guessing the CM machined the PP past its useable tolerance, which seems to be a common them with them from the searches I've done on here.
2. Part of this may be due to #1, but the clutch engagement is horrible. The clutch will barely slip at all, and when it does it chatters like crazy. If/when it does slip without chattering, it usually stinks, like I'm burning it up. Its almost undriveable like it is now, but I'm not replacing it until it starts slipping, just because its such a PITA to pull the trans.

 

[SHOtime2511]

why not another spec stage 2 with a ceramic TOB?

 

[SASHO91]

Isn't the Spec II+ the better option?

 

[SHO-NUF93]

Look into any local drivetrain shops that may build to suit...I got a ceramic 4-puck disc for $160 locally...and bought a very nice PP from TYSHO for about the same amount. And IMO, the ceramic TOB is worth it for the insurance it allows. I've only put about 3-4k on it since I did it back in March. No issues, driving around town, or on a couple trips to Daytona & St Auggy.

 

[Phoenix]

UPDATE:

Rockauto sells SHO Centerforce clutches/PP . 580$.

:woohoo:

These guys are making really good mustang clutches , I think we will have to look into them.

 

[SASHO91]

Yes, but the last time I looked at them, they didn't have the "part" that makes a centerforce clutch a centerforce clutch(weights), due to clearance issues.....

 

[itwonder]

I think the best bang for the buck is to not buy a clutch kit, but rather buy a stock PP, stock disk, and SHONUT ceramic TOB separately. There are no other parts in the kits that you need. Should you feel the need to replace the PP bolts, SHONUT has them and they are reasonably priced.

 

[Shoaz]

I think the best bang for the buck is to not buy a clutch kit, but rather buy a stock PP, stock disk, and SHONUT ceramic TOB separately. There are no other parts in the kits that you need. Should you feel the need to replace the PP bolts, SHONUT has them and they are reasonably priced.

x2

The ceramic TOB, and if you don't mind the cost the SHOnut release fork bushings, make a very, very nice and stable feeling clutch pedal. And I agree that for an n/a car that's street driven a stock disk a very good option.

 

[Jonny Cash]

I was in the process of giving you my input, but I had to run out quick, so here is my advice.

If it comes apart and the clutch is still good, just keep it and replace the TOB. My blow 4-500 on a new disk when the old ones still good? I hear alot of bad feedback on the Spec clutches, but Ive had good experience with mine. I guess the same could be said for anything.