what should I do for the 60k?

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whitesho

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Hey guys, I just bought a 91 SHO, it has 129,000 miles on it. I do know that I want to do plugs/wires on it (it has some 7mm cheapo wires on it, they don't seem to be as big as the motorcraft wires). I was thinking about replacing the following also:

hoses (any I see are in need of replacing)
thermostat
radiator coolant flush
belts (if so, which ones?)
valve lash adjustment (does anyone have pics on how to do this?)

What else? The car runs like total crap right now and is missing constantly, I think it's the plug wires. I unhooked the MAF to see if that helped, it didn't though.

Also, who can I get this 60k video through? Anyhow have an email address I can order that through? with 3 sho's at home, I think it would be a great investment :)
 

sdpatt

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The 60K for the 3.0L includes the following.

Top end engine work @ 60K for 3.0L and 3.2L
Required
1. Check and adjust valve gaps
2. Replace spark plugs
Optional
3. Replace spark plug wires
4. Replace valve cover and plug well seals
5. Replace intake-to-head gaskets
6. Replace thermostat
7. Replace O2 sensors

Front end engine work @ 60K for 3.0L, 100K for 3.2L
Required
1. Replace timing belt
2. Replace accessory belt(s)
Optional
3. Replace water pump (recommend rebuilt)
4. Replace crankshaft position sensor
5. Replace front main crankshaft oil seal
6. Replace lower radiator hose

There are special tools required for the valve gapping and the need for a supply of shims in various sizes. You can rent the kit through some of the SHO vendors and also buy a video for the procedure.

The timign belt change uses more standard tools, but the 3.0L job can be much easier with an 18" long, 5mm Allen wrench for the PS belt tensioner. You will also need a damper puller to remove the crank damper and the crank timing belt pulley (if replacing the front main seal).
 

fredhurderjr

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Scott - I've got the long 5mm Allen T-Handle coming in now, but I rigged up something cheap for temporary use.

Sears, buy 5mm long / short Allen "L" wrench set, was like $3 & change. Grind off the bottom of the "L". Use 5mm 1/4" socket & stack 10" & 6" 1/4" extensions as necessary. For something more permanent, crazyglue, epoxy, solder, whatever a spare 5mm socket to the hex stock. Even doing the stacked extensions permanently is cheaper than the $60 SHO Shop wants for the handle (though not nearly as nice or professional). Like I said, I have the SS handle coming in. Couldn't find anything long enough in the MSC catalog, etc - longest I found was 12" with a T-Handle. Looking into 5mm hex stock only through materials vendors now.

I did the same thing for the head bolts (10mm) to clear the cams for use with my Tq wrench.
 

SHOemup

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fredhurderjr:
Scott - I've got the long 5mm Allen T-Handle coming in now, but I rigged up something cheap for temporary use.

Sears, buy 5mm long / short Allen "L" wrench set, was like $3 & change. Grind off the bottom of the "L". Use 5mm 1/4" socket & stack 10" & 6" 1/4" extensions as necessary. For something more permanent, crazyglue, epoxy, solder, whatever a spare 5mm socket to the hex stock. Even doing the stacked extensions permanently is cheaper than the $60 SHO Shop wants for the handle (though not nearly as nice or professional). Like I said, I have the SS handle coming in. Couldn't find anything long enough in the MSC catalog, etc - longest I found was 12" with a T-Handle. Looking into 5mm hex stock only through materials vendors now.

I did the same thing for the head bolts (10mm) to clear the cams for use with my Tq wrench.
I did something similar to this when i had to do the waterpump job
 

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