SHOCD
New Member
Hello!
Intro/Background:
New member here I picked up a 2010 SHO for $2240 after it had been sitting for about 5 years and had exchanged hands in non running condition. I was able to replace both turbos and get the car running and functional again. Both turbos were severely damaged with broken shafts and dumping oil in to the exhaust and intake
Problem:
Under part throttle acceleration I get a pretty violent vibration that goes away if I let off or apply more throttle. The vibration sounds almost identical to rumble strips and I feel it in the steering wheel and drivetrain. It looks like the RPM fluctuates 250-300rpm when the vibration occurs.
This is one of numerous cars I have but I don't like things to sit and not be drivable.
Attempted and recent fixes:
1.Replaced front and rear brake pads. Pedal feels was bad and pads were missing hardware. I regressed slide pins while I was in there.
2.Replaced both turbos and cleaned the intercooler of oil/condensation that had been sitting
3. Replaced drivers side axle after hearing a small clicking/ grinding when turning. Opened and inspected the CV and bearings were in good shape.
4. Added lubeguard shudder fix to trans (No change)
5. Drained trans and refilled with fresh motor craft LV.
6. Added some lubeguard platinum
7. Drilled PTU and drained fluid. Not a bunch in there and was dark but normal viscosity.
8. Flushed through the ptu and refilled with redline lightweight shockproof.
9. Changed spark plugs
10. Moved a spare coil around to see if there was an unreported misfire under load. (No change)
11. Unrelated, but new wheels and tires.
Since I'm not in the car a ton of money I'd like to not unleash the parts cannon just yet and would like to do further troubleshooting. When under the car with a stethoscope and the car in gear I can't track down any odd sounds.
Current thoughts are pretty widespread. Ptu issue? Center support bearing? Passenger axle? Mid shaft? Torque converter shudder?
Is disconnecting the rear drive shaft from the PTU a next logical troubleshooting step?
Another odd ball issue (bonus round):
if the car is on stands in gear it likes to overheat when reved. Does this car have fan logic that turns down fans based on perceived wheel speed?
Intro/Background:
New member here I picked up a 2010 SHO for $2240 after it had been sitting for about 5 years and had exchanged hands in non running condition. I was able to replace both turbos and get the car running and functional again. Both turbos were severely damaged with broken shafts and dumping oil in to the exhaust and intake
Problem:
Under part throttle acceleration I get a pretty violent vibration that goes away if I let off or apply more throttle. The vibration sounds almost identical to rumble strips and I feel it in the steering wheel and drivetrain. It looks like the RPM fluctuates 250-300rpm when the vibration occurs.
This is one of numerous cars I have but I don't like things to sit and not be drivable.
Attempted and recent fixes:
1.Replaced front and rear brake pads. Pedal feels was bad and pads were missing hardware. I regressed slide pins while I was in there.
2.Replaced both turbos and cleaned the intercooler of oil/condensation that had been sitting
3. Replaced drivers side axle after hearing a small clicking/ grinding when turning. Opened and inspected the CV and bearings were in good shape.
4. Added lubeguard shudder fix to trans (No change)
5. Drained trans and refilled with fresh motor craft LV.
6. Added some lubeguard platinum
7. Drilled PTU and drained fluid. Not a bunch in there and was dark but normal viscosity.
8. Flushed through the ptu and refilled with redline lightweight shockproof.
9. Changed spark plugs
10. Moved a spare coil around to see if there was an unreported misfire under load. (No change)
11. Unrelated, but new wheels and tires.
Since I'm not in the car a ton of money I'd like to not unleash the parts cannon just yet and would like to do further troubleshooting. When under the car with a stethoscope and the car in gear I can't track down any odd sounds.
Current thoughts are pretty widespread. Ptu issue? Center support bearing? Passenger axle? Mid shaft? Torque converter shudder?
Is disconnecting the rear drive shaft from the PTU a next logical troubleshooting step?
Another odd ball issue (bonus round):
if the car is on stands in gear it likes to overheat when reved. Does this car have fan logic that turns down fans based on perceived wheel speed?