Valve cover bolts

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zoomlater

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type into the search function "broken valve cover bolt". there are quite a few threads on this topic
 

luigisho

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You will need something like a bolt extractor. a punch for the middle of the broken off bolt so the drill bit will stay centerd. extractor will be reverse threaded or the cutting head will be. There are a few different sets that will work. The correct small size is key. Hopefully it will come out without damaging the hole threads. If this does happen you will need to helicoil it. been there done that. Made me alot more careful after breaking 2 in the rear valve cover and having to do it at an angle near the firewall.

Also contact SV&HOdan and see if he has used replacement(s) for the right price. No new ones that I am aware of available.
 

Irish Pride

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So…. What do you guys recommend.
I recommend that you don't over tighten your valve cover bolts. They are flush mount. When they stop turning they are done.

Go to the hardware store and get a left handed drill bit. As soon as you start drilling into the broken section it should start backing out. I have good used bolts if needed.

-Chad
 

Samtheman94

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I recommend that you don't over tighten your valve cover bolts. They are flush mount. When they stop turning they are done.

Go to the hardware store and get a left handed drill bit. As soon as you start drilling into the broken section it should start backing out. I have good used bolts if needed.

-Chad
Actually the one pictured was broken when I started digging into the valve covers, I got the intake off and it was just kind of floating around in the hole. I’ve got an extraction kit but I’ve always had bad luck on the drill bits and, let’s be honest, who likes heli-coiling
 
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luigisho

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Actually the one pictured was broken when I started digging into the valve covers, I got the intake off and it was just kind of floating around in the hole. I’ve got an extraction kit but I’ve always had bad luck on the drill bits and, let’s be honest, who likes heli-coiling
ha ha. no one likes it. Mine was a daily driver, and I was a much younger ham ****** over torque person. If it didn't hurt I wouldn't have learned to stop doing that. Most of my mechaniching 1sts were a result of that wrench cherry popping '90 POS SHO.
 

luigisho

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ha ha it starred out the word f!sted above. I guess that is in a very long list of context be d@mned auto editing. Thank you Orwell!
 

Samtheman94

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ha ha. no one likes it. Mine was a daily driver, and I was a much younger ham ****** over torque person. If it didn't hurt I wouldn't have learned to stop doing that. Most of my mechaniching 1sts were a result of that wrench cherry popping '90 POS SHO.
Luckily won’t be heli-coiling or drilling anything. Was able to do the classy vise-grips grab. On an unrelated note, know where I can find the metal transmission cooler lines for an ATX? only parts MTX’s near me and can’t find it anywhere
 

luigisho

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Ahh I assumed they were it snapped sorta flush. Vice grips saved the day. Tighten those things to snug and not real tight. Very sciencey precision there.

ATX...Are they solid metal lines? I see fittings and rubber lines but no stainless hard lines aftermarket. You could hit up sho source -- or you or a paid pro could fab them if they are metal line. Just bend to pattern and flare the ends and put connectors on?? All my SHO's (except my v8 97) were MTX so I never had that part to deal with.

I wonder if this is correct or some kind of error. Maybe just the regular 3.0 and 3.8 taurus motors or maybe 3.2 is included??


The listing might be wrong in the aftermarket system. Irish Pride or Rubydist might have this info available re: part numbers
 
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Samtheman94

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So I did some looking in the forum and found this diagram in a thread:
344B5A7B 418E 4CBA 9B91 6EF175435E32
I’ll include the thread on this reply for anyone else that has this problem, but mine are just as rusty, if not worse, than the one pictured there. But exact same problem. I think I’m gonna end up at the dealership hoping they have some.
Thread:
Thread 'Transmission Fluid Leak - Need Help Identifying Part in Photo'
https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...k-need-help-identifying-part-in-photo.139007/
 

luigisho

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Really need an oem part number to cross reference. Some dealer parts places don't like to give those out so you don't shop around. I've found with obsolete parts they will gladly give those numbers out as it is moot for them at that point. IF you get a number get all teh ones from 93-95 when the autos became available. Those should be same parts with maybe a slight number change.
I have not seen anything new for these in a long time. If there are rust free(ish) used ones that might be the answer or custom built replacements.
 

Irish Pride

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So I did some looking in the forum and found this diagram in a thread:
View attachment 81258
I’ll include the thread on this reply for anyone else that has this problem, but mine are just as rusty, if not worse, than the one pictured there. But exact same problem. I think I’m gonna end up at the dealership hoping they have some.
Thread:
Thread 'Transmission Fluid Leak - Need Help Identifying Part in Photo'
https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...k-need-help-identifying-part-in-photo.139007/
I work in the parts department at a Ford Dealership. If they are available anywhere I'll let you know on Monday.

-Chad
 

Irish Pride

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Some dealer parts places don't like to give those out so you don't shop around. I've found with obsolete parts they will gladly give those numbers out as it is moot for them at that point.
Yep, if you call me about something on a 2016 Focus, I'm not giving you the full part number. You'll buy it from me or not at all! Lol

If you call for something on a 1988 Econoline, I'll give you the full part number and tell you good luck with your search.
 

Samtheman94

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I work in the parts department at a Ford Dealership. If they are available anywhere I'll let you know on Monday.

-Chad
Thank you so much! Contacted sv&shodan and he didn’t have any in, and I’d very much like to get an OEM so I can just replace the whole system without trying to save the old lines for a template. Plus sounds like there’s some sort of temp sensor that is pretty rusty on my car that I’d like to replace. I’m pretty sure it’s the little box the 2 metal lines go into, but not 100%
 

zoomlater

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Thank you so much! Contacted sv&shodan and he didn’t have any in, and I’d very much like to get an OEM so I can just replace the whole system without trying to save the old lines for a template. Plus sounds like there’s some sort of temp sensor that is pretty rusty on my car that I’d like to replace. I’m pretty sure it’s the little box the 2 metal lines go into, but not 100%
Did you try checking with Shosource
 

luigisho

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Samtheman94

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this is true. if it's not listed doesn't mean they can't get a new or used unit.
SV&HOdan has lots of stuff (not this apparently) but underbody stuff in Pittsburgh may not be as rust free as you need for the brain file for later
I shot SHO source an inquiry, but in the meantime since the 94 isn’t running yet I’ve decided to buy another one. 92 with 130k on it, anything in particular I should look at when checking it out? On other vehicles, they always seemed to have slight tells to possible problems.
 

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