Trouble codes... 176-177-332-543... need help

[SHOTIME2669]

Ok I have a fairly good knowledge of cars and finally decided it was time to take care of some on going problems with my 94 ATX SHO.

I have had problems with the oh so common 332 code. (332 - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code did not open intermittantly
, thanks to Midwest SHO)

I clean out the port before as well as the intake the cheap way with some carb cleaner and a air hose. I then replaced the EGR valve with a factory Motorsport part. Now after doing this heres what happened...

After clearing out the memory on the ECU I drove around for about 10 miles and the check engine light came back on. I noticed a different sound to the intake with the new EGR valve, nothing bad but different. When I checked the codes again after I got back home heres what it spit out at me:
176, 177, 332 (again), 543

I already knew what the 176,177,332 codes were but the 543 was new. Heres the actually definitions are from Midwest SHO again:

176 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S

177 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S

332 - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code did not open intermittantly

543 - Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open


No the 556 code wasn't present. However I have a pretty good idea from the codes that my O2 sensors need to be replaced they're old and have about 40k on them. The EGR valve is new so I'm thinking that down pipe from the valve to the exhaust manifold is clogged (any idea on the best way to take it completely off and clean it?)

However the 543 Fuel Pump circuit code has got me stumped. I dont know what to do.

Any ideas, hints, comments would most greatly be appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

 

[projectSHO89]

17x - O2 sensors, probably. Otherwise vacuum leak.

332 - Search on "332" and my user number for the diagnostic.

543 - Don't do anything. Ignore if the engine has been stalled. Very common.

Steve

 

[SHOTIME2669]

Also I forgot to mention, every once and a while when I intially start the car it wont want to idle it will start then surge like crazy until it kills. If I hold the gas so that the car stays at about 1000 rpm's and then put it in reverse and then put it in drive and take off its fine. But if I just start to put it in gear the car dies right away. Figured that might help out a bit.

-Mike

 

[srfdude]

SHOTIME2669:


I clean out the port before as well as the intake the cheap way with some carb cleaner and a air hose. I then replaced the EGR valve with a factory Motorsport part. Now after doing this heres what happened...


No the 556 code wasn't present. However I have a pretty good idea from the codes that my O2 sensors need to be replaced they're old and have about 40k on them. The EGR valve is new so I'm thinking that down pipe from the valve to the exhaust manifold is clogged (any idea on the best way to take it completely off and clean it?)
Thanks, Mike

Regarding the EGR, I doubt the downtube is clogged, that normally won't happen. Are you sure you got all the passages in the intake manifold cleaned out? Did you take the end plugs out and check? A quick way to check your mechanical EGR system is to pull the vacuum line off the valve and plug the hose. Then put a length of hose on the valve and apply a little suction while idling. It should slow it down to the point of not running. If that doesn't work I'd get your hand down to the tube and see if it hasn't blown a hole in it; that is a common occurence. You should be able to hear it when its running.
Mike

 

[SHOTIME2669]

Yea I took the plug out put a hanger up in there the whole works. I'm going to try the vacuum test and see what happens. I think the DPFE could be bad. I'm going to cross check the Ford part number on it and see what my cost is on it. I can buy direct from the warehouse with a 25% discount thanks to my dad being a Ford Motor Company employee.

Also what all is involved in taking the intake off I would imagine that would be the best way to clean out these ports. I've just be to scared to mess with it myself. Its a lot more complicated then my 69 350.

-Mike

Update... I sucked on the EGR valve and created a vacuum at idle, didnt do a thing. No change in RPM what so ever.

<small>[ August 18, 2003, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: SHOTIME2669 ]</small>

 

[srfdude]

SHOTIME2669:


Update... I sucked on the EGR valve and created a vacuum at idle, didnt do a thing. No change in RPM what so ever.

Okay, now you know you don't have to throw money at a DPFE. Either the downtube has a hole in it, or you didn't get one or more of the passages cleaned out of the intake. It is a lot easier to clean with it off; its not too difficult to remove. Just make mental notes of where the different hoses go.
Mike

 

[SHOTIME2669]

Yea I forgot to mention I checked the tube for damage (holes) didnt find anything wrong with it. Can I take the intake off all at once and not have to worry about getting gaskets or anything, I have to work tonight at 10pm so I dont want to get in to deep and get screwed. I have all the tools I'll ever need to get it off. I was looking at it... if I take the bolts out that are towards the center of the intake that run through the intake runners does that disconnect it from the engine? Then all I have to do is take some pictures of the vacuum lines and disconnect the sensors right? Please let me know. Also I dont suppose theres an article in the tech section at shotimes on how to do this is there?

-Mike

 

[srfdude]

Its pretty basic, go to shotimes:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=61

Mike