Tools needed for rear rotor/pad change...

[Mike93]

I am away from home at school without my tools. I am going to be borrowing some tools from a buddy but need to know what I need. I have a jack, lugnut wrench, a small socket set of 1/4 drive sockets up to 1/2" and 14mm, new rotors, pads, and the brake piston caliper tool.

I know that the caliper pins are 13mm, but what is needed to take the bracket off in order to remove the rotor?

While I'm posting, can I compress the caliper piston without removing the caliper? I'd like to keep the labor as minimal as possible. Thanks, Mike

 

[94mtx]

mike,
the rears are fairly simple, just remember to compress the rear pistons they need to screw in, not just push in like the fronts. you will see some grooves/tangs in the piston. 1/4" sockets!! i spent around $50 at sears and purchased a 3/8" combo set a few years ago came with a cool hard plastic case and works for 90% of my work on cars. the only thing that you might need otherwise is a breaker bar, or something to give you leaverage, if i remember right, there is not alot of room, oh wait that is most places, hehe. i needed to remove the caliper to compress the piston, but i just used a strong set of needle nose pliers.

jon

 

[Mike93]

How and where are you using needle nose pliers???

Are you saying you had to remove the caliper from the car to compress the piston???

 

[Mike93]

Forgot...how involved is removing the bracket that hold the caliper on? How many bolts and what size are they?

 

[94mtx]

mike,
you dont have to remove the hyd brake lines but you need to remove them from the disc, but looks like you are going to do that to replace the disc!! and i used the needle nose pliers basically like a big screw driver. i believe the reason the rears are screwed back in has something to do with the ebrake?? not sure though. and it is not that involved to remove the caliper or the bracket just 2 bolts for each, per side of course. sorry dont remember what the exact size of bolts are, but i seem to remember either 14mm or 16mm

jon

 

[SHODWN]

2 per caliper and there 15mm

Pop the dam bleeder too!

 

[Mike93]

Awesome-thanks

 

[rangerj]

Mike ,

If you were at home with all of your tools I would agree with SHODWN about opening the bleeder. However you are at school with a limited number of tools. I suggest that you not risk breaking off the bleeder.

Yes, you can turn the piston back in without removing the caliper from the vehicle. You can hold the caliper in one hand and push in and turn the tool, clockwise, with the other hand. If you have someone to help you hold the caliper it is a little easier.

Turn in the piston, clockwise, until it is flush with the caliper, or nearly so. When you get close, check to see if the pads will fit over the rotors. Turn in the piston until the pads will fit.

Sears has a 3/8 drive breaker bar (about a foot long) that is handy for removing the bracket bolts. It gives you a lot of leverage. A 13mm, and 15mm 3/8 drive sockets would help. The 1/4 drive socket set may not give you the leverage you need.

Does the school you go to have an Engineering Department? If it does, you may be able to borrow some tools from them. Just a thought!

Hope this helps, rangerj

PS Working under "field conditions" can be very hazardous. Be especially careful using the cars jack. Put the tire under the car, and/or blocks or something for safety.

 

[pjtoledo]

Mike Lundeen:
Forgot...how involved is removing the bracket that hold the caliper on? How many bolts and what size are they?

I don't want to be a big pessimist, but if you are in Ohio or Minnesota you better be prepared to deal with some rusted bolts. Check the slider pins first, if siezed you may be better off with new brackets. One method of turning the piston back in is to remove the rotor and re-mount the caliper, letting the bracket hold it while you turn.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[Hubes]

maybe some heat or wd 40 or some other stuff to help loosen seized/rusted bolts