Sway Bar Combos

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Firespirit

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SableSal said:
I'm sorry, but I can't see myself buying strands of unformed metal for $90... Someone shine some light on my idiocy.

Sal

Then don't. No one asked you to. As for me, I have already ordered what I wanted from Bob. :thumb:
 

EDIII

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SableSal said:
I'm sorry, but I can't see myself buying strands of unformed metal for $90... Someone shine some light on my idiocy.



Sal

$90 on SFCs is money much better spent then on a $170 CF belt cover...:snicker:
 

Lance Cheney

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NJSHO said:
Please explain how the torque on the nuts on the inner rear control arms frees up the sway bar?

I think he was talking about the fact that when you torque the bolts down on the ends of the control arms it makes it so that the inner sleeve can't rotate; if you leave these loose then the sleeve can rotate, thus reducing the bushing friction. Normally the bushing is stressed when the control arm moves. Those bolts are supposed to be installed loose and then torqued only when the car is on the ground so that the bushing is not prestressed during normal driving, but the bushing only resists so much force compared to the springs anyway (you may reduce the life of the bushing if you torque it while the suspension is dangling).

The factory designed it so that the inner bushing didn't rotate for a reason, and I would not want to run around with them loose as these are supposed to be held firm, not rattle around as on the bolt. The bolt is not a press fit into the arms, so there is some slop if you don't torque it down and use the friction between the control arm bushing and the spindle (or H-brace/center box for the inner joint) as the load carrier. You may damage the mounting point, especially on the inside where the entire load would be transferred to a 15mm x 0.125" thick area (outside edge of bolt binding on the sheet metal).

-Lance
 
S

shoebilly

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Find a 19mm or 20mm bar for the front and it will improve front end grip, loosen the back rubber a bit. Bingo! throttle steer. You can experiment by taking a link of one side of the bar in front. this will give you the effect of the out side corner diving more weight on the front at the same time lifting weight off the inside rear. In the end, tight cornering ability is vastly improved as well as all cornering in general. On the gas the rear sticks-off the gas the rear drifts.
 
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godspunk32 said:
Bob Gervais sells subframe connectors. I would assume he's on here with the username "Bob Gervais" minus the quotes. If not, he's on taurusclub.com with that name.

There's a group buy going on right now at the TCCA, so you could get in on that. I think the subframe connectors are 90 bucks, delivered. Check the Suspension forum for the group buy info.

JR


Actually the Gen 1 and 2 SFC's are $70 shipped. The Gen 3 and 4 ones are $90 because there's two brackets included that are needed to have a surface in the rear to weld the SFC's onto.

Thank you JR, for thinking of me! :)

Regarding swaybars, as a lot of people have mentioned, it all depends on what you're planning on doing with the car. I find the stock 24/26 combo on my 91 makes the front end plow a little, moreso in the two track events I've had the car in. It is now sold, but I was planning on installing a smaller front bar to overcome this.

When it comes down to a decision, listen to the people that have done track events, and can tell you how the car felt after certain bars were installed. Also, try to find someone with a similar setup, and get their opinion, or if they're close enough to you that perhaps you could try the car out yourself.
 

LeddZepp8687

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Bob Gervais said:
Actually the Gen 1 and 2 SFC's are $70 shipped. The Gen 3 and 4 ones are $90 because there's two brackets included that are needed to have a surface in the rear to weld the SFC's onto.

Thank you JR, for thinking of me! :)

Regarding swaybars, as a lot of people have mentioned, it all depends on what you're planning on doing with the car. I find the stock 24/26 combo on my 91 makes the front end plow a little, moreso in the two track events I've had the car in. It is now sold, but I was planning on installing a smaller front bar to overcome this.

When it comes down to a decision, listen to the people that have done track events, and can tell you how the car felt after certain bars were installed. Also, try to find someone with a similar setup, and get their opinion, or if they're close enough to you that perhaps you could try the car out yourself.

Please Link me to this group buy, I want a set and cannot find them anywhere on TCCA. Thanks
 

shobote

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I noticed you have a rear STB as the only upgrade to your stock suspension. That helps stiffen up the rear but will also increase your understeer. The bushings on your stocker front sway bar could also be toast, which will add more understeer; go with with some TPR ones. I'd then get a Front STB and then the full length SFC's, then go to some quality struts/springs and then start messing with sway bars. The front sway bar is no picnic to replace as the subrame has to come down.
 

NHREDSHODRIVER

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I am looking to do a 24/26 set up on my car what cars came with 24mm and the 26mm sway bar.. So i know what years to look for. To get them

Thanks Chris
 

Shoaz

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The thickness of the bar material. You can measure it just about anywhere along the length of the bar.
 

ManySHOs

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SeanMc said:
I like my 23/26 setup. Stock my car was a 23/21 or something really lame. This helped cornering quite a bit.

You should've had a 22 up front on a 93 ATX.

Ian
 

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