Subwoofer add-in

[Juicybaka]

Just use the factory amp for the front center. No need to separately amp it or run new wires. The centers are just there to compensate for the crappy factory imaging anyway. They are not needed with properly tuned aftermarket components except for the touch panel haptic feedback.

So is it even worth replacing front center speaker?

 

[tech10002]

So is it even worth replacing front center speaker?

Not in my opinion. I have mine set up to cross over everything below 600 Hz and above 900 Hz. Of course, it’s slope is only 6db per octave so audio does come through from other frequencies but it’s amplitude is very low. I only wanted to clearly hear the beep from the touch controls and get the amplitude low enough for the rest of the frequencies to not overpower the other speakers and screw up the sound stage.

 

[Juicybaka]

So needs some quick advise fellas ASAP. I’m almost finished installing Infinity Kappas and I notice there’s a button on tweeter for 0 or 3db. Would 0 be the correct setting seeing tweeter is at pillar?
Thanks!

 

[Juicybaka]

Took me about five hours to install all doors and rear deck subs. Crutchfield instructions are invaluable and if anyone needs to “borrow” them, let me know.
Doors were super easy and rear deck removal was actually pretty simple too.
Deck assembly was a little PITA though. Couple of things to mention for those who haven’t attempted yet.

• Plan on most, if not all side pillar clip retainers to come off of trim when removing. You will need some needle nose pliers to remove from pillar area. (2) little tabs in middle
• Very back of rear deck has (3) foam standoffs. If your careful like I wasn’t, you should be able to wiggle these over the rear shade assembly. If not, have hot glue gun on standby to reattach.

Overall, sounds much better and no bass distortion. Definitely putting brakes on DSP because I know this will get out of control! Just need to run amp wire and purchase JL sub for Thunderstruck to sound good...

Thanks again for everyone’s help and sound advise. It’s awesome to have a great team of forum members who are always willing to help out when needed and passionate about the SHO, as am I.
-Mike

 

[Lostneye]

$1000.00 worth of dynomat, 3/16” closed cell foam over door panels and mass loaded vinyl over that. Doors closed like a Bentley! I think prep has to do a lot with sound quality too. When I close the doors on the SHO, they sound like tin cans.
With what little knowledge I do have, I speak from experience. Dynomat and even vinyl the trunk area or your going to have a rattletrap. If bass in the face is what your after, your going to sacrifice space. Just like HP, “no replacement for displacement”. 2-12” subs in an apropiate size ported box will punish. Class D amp with RMS damn near, if not at the speakers max RMS. Hope you ran 0 gauge back there. You cannot go wrong with JL. Pay to play...
Now can anyone answer my question about those damn center speakers?
Thank you

I have my front doors fully treated dampener, CCF, and MLV and there is a clear difference when closing the front vs the rear doors.

I was running an Alpine PDX -V9 before swapping to Zapco, good amp and underrated.

Personally I do not care for the center processing in the Sony system. I had it in stereo while it was stock and now have both front and rear center speakers removed. Only stock speakers till I the car are the rear doors but they are faded all the way to the front anyway.

 

[tech10002]

So needs some quick advise fellas ASAP. I’m almost finished installing Infinity Kappas and I notice there’s a button on tweeter for 0 or 3db. Would 0 be the correct setting seeing tweeter is at pillar?
Thanks!

It’s just preference. The 3db boost will make the high frequencies a bit brighter. With the stock Sony amp, I thought it sounded better with the 3db boost. With my setup now, I use 0 dB reference. I have DSP and an amp so I control the frequencies on a laptop in the dsp setup program.

 

[Lostneye]

So needs some quick advise fellas ASAP. I’m almost finished installing Infinity Kappas and I notice there’s a button on tweeter for 0 or 3db. Would 0 be the correct setting seeing tweeter is at pillar?
Thanks!

Missed this before. I agree, unless you are completing it's preference. And without hearing those tweeters in a same pillar location in a Taurus no one can tell you for sure. Personally I would probably start at 0 seeing you are trying to match the mid low in the door.

 

[Juicybaka]

Missed this before. I agree, unless you are completing it's preference. And without hearing those tweeters in a same pillar location in a Taurus no one can tell you for sure. Personally I would probably start at 0 seeing you are trying to match the mid low in the door.

Took me about five hours to install all doors and rear deck subs. Crutchfield instructions are invaluable and if anyone needs to “borrow” them, let me know.
Doors were super easy and rear deck removal was actually pretty simple too.
Deck assembly was a little PITA though. Couple of things to mention for those who haven’t attempted yet.

• Plan on most, if not all side pillar clip retainers to come off of trim when removing. You will View attachment 7527 need some needle nose pliers to remove from pillar area. (2) little tabs in middle
• Very back of rear deck has (3) foam standoffs. If your careful like I wasn’t, you should be able to wiggle these over the rear shade assembly. If not, have hot glue gun on standby to reattach.

Overall, sounds much better and no bass distortion. Definitely putting brakes on DSP because I know this will get out of control! Just need to run amp wire and purchase JL sub for Thunderstruck to sound good...

Thanks again for everyone’s help and sound advise. It’s awesome to have a great team of forum members who are always willing to help out when needed and passionate about the SHO, as am I.
-Mike

Well after hearing sound for few days and comparing to stock Bose in my GMC, these speakers definitely need some adjusting which stereo cannot fix. DSP and amp on my list for nex year

 

[tech10002]

Well after hearing sound for few days and comparing to stock Bose in my GMC, these speakers definitely need some adjusting which stereo cannot fix. DSP and amp on my list for nex year

You’ll be amazed how it will sound with dsp. If you don’t have an existing amp, check out the JL Audio vx1000/5i when you decide to pull the trigger. It’s a bit on the pricey side, but it’s not a whole lot more than a high quality 5 channel amp plus a separate dsp. It integrates an optical input dsp with a really nice amp. I’ve been itching to give the credit card a workout and get one myself. Maybe next year after I pay off the wife’s stereo stuff I installed for her bday...

 

[Juicybaka]

Wow, that’s nice! Price is fair enough for a 2-in-1 with crazy sub-output! Do you think 4/0 is enough to power. If not, that’ll be going back too.

This will likely happen next summer which gives me time to run amp wire and build nice mount, and box for sub in trunk. The hole I said I wasn’t going in...

 

[Lostneye]

You’ll be amazed how it will sound with dsp. If you don’t have an existing amp, check out the JL Audio vx1000/5i when you decide to pull the trigger. It’s a bit on the pricey side, but it’s not a whole lot more than a high quality 5 channel amp plus a separate dsp. It integrates an optical input dsp with a really nice amp. I’ve been itching to give the credit card a workout and get one myself. Maybe next year after I pay off the wife’s stereo stuff I installed for her bday...

I've heard positive about the VX line, I want to her them. That's nice and small too.

Wow, that’s nice! Price is fair enough for a 2-in-1 with crazy sub-output! Do you think 4/0 is enough to power. If not, that’ll be going back too.

This will likely happen next summer which gives me time to run amp wire and build nice mount, and box for sub in trunk. The hole I said I wasn’t going in...

With an 80 amp fuse rating 4 gauge should be fine. Although I try and go bigger and future proof in case you make changes latter on you don't have to run a new power wire.

 

[tech10002]

Wow, that’s nice! Price is fair enough for a 2-in-1 with crazy sub-output! Do you think 4/0 is enough to power. If not, that’ll be going back too.

This will likely happen next summer which gives me time to run amp wire and build nice mount, and box for sub in trunk. The hole I said I wasn’t going in...

Yeah. 600 watts would rock on the sub. My sub is rated to handle 600 and I’m feeding it 350 or so now. That amp will fit right where my Alpine lives now, so it would be maybe a couple hours to install. I want one! Lol

As Lostneye said, 4 awg would be plenty. It will handle 100a continuous no problem with minimal voltage drop, and you’ll only see near 80a in transients. I have 750 watts rms on class D amps in the wife’s Flex running off 8 awg. The highest current draw in quick transients is just over 41 amps.

 

[Joshw0000]

Finally got the sub installed. I ended up running the power wire like Tech did through the windshield cowl. I'm glad I went that way. The wiring looks much cleaner. Amp and sub are set up at 500W RMS at 4 Ohm (speaker rating). I need to mount the box /amp and dial it in. When I finished wiring, I basically turned it on low to make sure it worked and quit. I'm looking forward to hearing it tomorrow and tweaking it. I foresee some sound deadener in my near future.

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[Joshw0000]

Sounds much better!! I have frequency all the way up and gain at about 50%. I played with the bass **** this morning and never actually got it to 100%. I have treble at + full bars and bass at +2 on the factory stereo. It's going to take some tweaking to get it perfect. And I'll definitely be lining the trunk.

I played my kids' favorite sound track this morning, Disney Zombies. They loved how they could feel the bass on their backs.

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[tech10002]

Sounds much better!! I have frequency all the way up and gain at about 50%. I played with the bass **** this morning and never actually got it to 100%. I have treble at + full bars and bass at +2 on the factory stereo. It's going to take some tweaking to get it perfect. And I'll definitely be lining the trunk.

I played my kids' favorite sound track this morning, Disney Zombies. They loved how they could feel the bass on their backs.

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Do you have an amp on the mids/highs? If so, what did you end up using for factory integration, line output converter? Amppro? The tweaking was where I had issues. I resisted getting a real dsp because of my unfamiliarity with them, but I never could get it sounding quite right without one. Now I preach them up to anybody who will listen. Once you go dsp, you’ll never go back.

 

[Joshw0000]

Do you have an amp on the mids/highs? If so, what did you end up using for factory integration, line output converter? Amppro? The tweaking was where I had issues. I resisted getting a real dsp because of my unfamiliarity with them, but I never could get it sounding quite right without one. Now I preach them up to anybody who will listen. Once you go dsp, you’ll never go back.

The amp and sub are the only aftermarket components I have right now. The GM-D9601 came with an adapter to convert speaker wire to RCA. So I'm using the factory stereo to adjust bass and treble to the entire car, the amp to adjust gain and frequency, and the center console mounted bass **** (same location as I had the Kicker one previously) to adjust bass to the sub. I've noticed that adjusting bass on the factory stereo to a flat zero really hinders the amount of bass I can get from the sub.

I'm pulling signal from the front door speakers, at the factory wiring harness at the factory Sony amp, in the trunk.

I've already blown my budget on this project and still need to invest in some sound deadening for the trunk. I understand the LOC's can be just as expensive as a good amp if go top-of-the line, which I just can spring for right now. Do you think it'd be worthwhile to invest in a PAC LP7-2 (or another ~$25 LOC)?

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[tech10002]

You have a 13+, right? If you plan on a fully amplified system, I’d skip the LOC devices and go with a Pac Amppro AP4-FD21 and the accompanying harness. You can use the analog outputs with any amps you like and add the optical module to is later and go with full Dsp with an optical in. That’s the best and easiest way in the Taurus.

 

[Joshw0000]

You have a 13+, right? If you plan on a fully amplified system, I’d skip the LOC devices and go with a Pac Amppro AP4-FD21 and the accompanying harness. You can use the analog outputs with any amps you like and add the optical module to is later and go with full Dsp with an optical in. That’s the best and easiest way in the Taurus.

Mine's a 2012.

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[tech10002]

Mine's a 2012.

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On a 12 you’re not gonna be able to use that Pac module, then. Probably something like a JBL MS-8 or an Audison Bit One would work, or a JL Audio Fix 86. I haven’t used the above myself, but all are good brands with good reputations. The JL Fix86 is very similar to the Twk-D8 dsp I’m using now. It just has a built in LOC. The software you use for tuning is the same, and it’s very easy to use software. I really like my Twk-D8.

 

[Joshw0000]

I'm noticing my sub (and front door speakers that I tapped in to) are cutting on and off. I haven't trouble shot the amp or my wiring yet but honestly I don't think either are the culprit. I'm pretty **** about soldering wires and checking connections when I wire something.

The fact that the front door speakers are coming/going with the sub tells me maybe the system is seeing that I'm pulling signal and trying to correct something? Anybody have any ideas before I start troubleshooting?

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