Someone please tell me I did something wrong!!!!

[RI-SHO]

I just finished reinstalling the timing belt tensioner stud that broke, new timing belt, set timing, all this past weekend. I picked up the battery that had been siting in my SHO dead for 4mths from the auto garage up the street that charged it for me for a few hours.

It was all set running by 1:30pm, started on the first crank after 4mths of collecting dirt and smoked up nice becase I had spilled some power steering fluid on the 2nd cat. I let it idle for about 15min till it was warm, turned it off tapped off all fluid then restarted let the idle go down and took off listening for any strange noises.

I made it to the gas station just fine revved nice(i kept under 5K), except for a loud whine, I suspect I tightened one of the belts too tight, anything else this can be?

Anyways on my way home it all shit the bed, I was in 2nd doing 30 and the RPM just start surging just like it did the first time when my timing belt tensioner flew out of my SHO at 70MPH. I got scared shit because I thought this was all going to repeat again so I just put it in 3rd surging continued but less and I made it home the last 1/2mile in 1st just bucking on and off. Then right when I make the turn to where I was gong to park her the surging goes away and I rev it to 5K no problem.

I just parked it for the new years and I am just so ****** and confused at the same time. I checked out the timing belt tensioner, the nut was still on it and belt was nice and tight, I removed all the timing belt covers so I can everything easily now.

Only other problem I could think of is one of my injector O-rings is leaking and the fuel fumes are very strong, could one of the injectors being shutting on and off without me realizing it and causeing the surging? BTW there are no codes I could get from it, it now just idles good but I wont dare take it from where its parked after it surged like it did because last time I ignored the surging, it cost me about $300 in parts just to get it back to where I am at now.

<small>[ December 31, 2002, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[twr]

RISHO - check for vacuum leaks. Also replace those injector o-rings. You don't want the car to go up in flames.

 

[RI-SHO]

I wasnt too clear, I dont know if there called O-rings as well, but its the gasket/grommet on the number 2 injector that goes from the top of it to the fuel rail.

Is this also known as a O-ring or only the lower gasket from the bottom of the injector to the block?

 

[KazMan]

make sure you got your crank bolt tight enough.

if it backed out a little and the CPS doesnt see anything you would get mad bucking...trust me..ive been there.

 

[rangerj]

RISHO,

The gasket that goes on top of the injector, that is the end that goes into the fuel rail, is an "O" ring. If you can, get a set of six for the top and the bottom, i.e. the end that goes into the head. The gaskets are different.

As for the surging, check your electrical connections for good clean contacts. This is especially true for the Crankshaft position sensor, and the CID sensor.

The intermittent aspect of your problem tends to indicate a connection problem. You may also want to disconnect your 60 pin connection at the firewall and check the continuity of the sensor wires back to that point.

If every thing is ok back to that point, then check between the firewall and the computer. I have frequently found that just unplugging connections, and then plugging them back in, solves the problem. Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[RI-SHO]

The Crankshaft sensor is less than a year old and the CID was replaced in August both with no problems after install. All this is surging occured after my timing problems and after extended trips to NH and NJ about 500 highway miles and I continued to have no problems.

I have been through all the testing, running codes, and checking of connections these passed 4mths with no solution to my problem except when the timing was corrected and only briefly did it run right.

Where exactly is the 60pin so I can check that tommorrow? I have had injectors replaced before so I am thinking of just buying all new 6 injectors with gaskets, are there any aftermarket #24 that would fit or do I have to stay with OEM Ford?

 

[luigisho]

Edien look around on this board as there was a post today with the Ford part# for the injector to head grommet/seal whatever they're called.

Could be an injector problem or as ranger said a bad electrical connection could really be a factor and a real pain to track down.

Any codes?

<small>[ December 31, 2002, 06:54 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Make sure that you tightened the 12mm crossover tube bolts. I would like to be able to see the engine to figure out what is not working right. I'm sorry for your troubles.

 

[RI-SHO]

sdpatt:
Make sure that you tightened the 12mm crossover tube bolts. I would like to be able to see the engine to figure out what is not working right. I'm sorry for your troubles.

Would a video help out with you helping me? Because if it can I could show a start up and idle vid of how it runs. Hopefully it does it on camera because it is a on/off problem.

Would it matter if I took a bolt from the TB side of the intake to put into the crossover side? I had lost one of the 12mm M10 bolts on the crossover side, thats how I bandaide the problem by using one from the TB side, or does whole manifold need to be grounded for the DIS to work properly?

Would Home Depot or hardware store carry these 12mm M10 1.25(pitch) bolts?

 

[sdpatt]

RI-SHO
Would it matter if I took a bolt from the TB side of the intake to put into the crossover side? I had lost one of the 12mm M10 bolts on the crossover side, thats how I bandaide the problem by using one from the TB side, or does whole manifold need to be grounded for the DIS to work properly?

Would Home Depot or hardware store carry these 12mm M10 1.25(pitch) bolts?[/QB]

As long as the crossover tube is well grounded, the bolt off at the TB side should not affect the grounding. Which bolt did you use, the one to the bracket from the inside of the runner just forward of the TB?

Yes, you can get these bolts at the places listed or even some auto parts stores that carry bulk bolting materials.

 

[rangerj]

RI SHO,

The 60 pin connector is on the passenger side of the firewall. The connector is held in place with a 10mm bolt. Try disconnecting the connector, check for corrosion, and reconnect it.

If you want to check the signal wire that goes from the CID to the computer for continuity, it is the dark green wire at the CID connector and the fourth position in from the passenger side in the middle row of the 60 pin connector.

Yes you can get metric bolts at most good hardware stores, and most good auto parts stores. As the bolts that hold the crossover tube to the intake manifold are "ground" bolts, you can apply a light coat of anti-sieze compound, or grease, to improve the conductivity. DO NOT use dielectric grease, as it does not conduct electricity.

You can determine if your injectors are working by holding a screwdriver to the injector with the plastic end to your ear. The clicking of the injector will resonate through the screwdriver.

This will tell you that the injector is getting electricity, and that the injector is opening and closing. It will not tell you if the injector is carboned up, or if it is opening and closing as frequently as it should. You would need some sort of "scan tool" that can tell you the opening and closing intervals in miliseconds.

This information, in conjunction with the O-2 sensor information (rich/lean/fuel-air ratio), will tell you if the injectors are functioning properly.

Check your grounds. There is one at the back support bracket for the intake on the passenger side, that goes to the firewall. There is one near the battery, on the passenger inner fender well also.

I know this kind of problem is frustrating, but hang in there. If you want to run wire checks, but do not have the wiring diagrams, I have the wiring diagrams for the 90 SHO and will help in any way I can. rangerj

 

[RI-SHO]

Something is seriously off now I am getting smoking from the fuel rail/injector area, at first I knew it was smoke off the cat I had spilled power steering fluid on it. But now I cant see any smoke coming from the cat and I still slow moving bellowing smoke coming from the injector, and fuel smell is centralized in the middle two injectors.

I'm thinking my leak could part due to my cracked seal and the other my fault. While I was reinstalling them after replacing the knock sensor I remember I had trouble keep the injectors lines up with the rail everytime I went to tighten the rail down, one of them couldve easily popped out while I was doing this without me knowing. Hopefully i'll solve the leak problem once I recieve the new seals Fred sent me and surging/bucking problem is one of the injectors leaking.

While I was checking yesterday and installed another 12mm I had as spare from another SHO engine, I realized the two crossover bolts had come lose somehow from the drive to the gas station(problay only being hold in by the rubber boots). I tightened them down and made sure the rubber boots were on tight, the idle and surging were not present when I let it warm up but I didnt dare drive it down the road because of the fuel, hoepfully the problem was this "simple". If not i'll concentrate on further once I fix the leak.

Any tips on installing the injectors in a "easier" fashion than putting them all on the block and laying the rails on top? Thanks for all the help guys I'll defitnaly need more of it once I tackle the injectors again.

 

[luigisho]

Last time I replaced injectors I think I put them all in the fuel rail first and then maneuvered them into the head. Might no be the optimal way though. It was a little tricky but I wanted to be sure the o-ring at the fuel rail was sealed. The grommet at the heads would be less likely to leak than the fuel rail o-ring I would think. The injector nozzle goes through the seal at the head where as if the o-ring at the rail failed you have both fuel rail pressure and gravity against you.

 

[rangerj]

RISHO,

If you have a fuel leak, and you are seeing smoke while running the engine, UH don't run the engine until the leak is fixed!

The injectors are held in by the friction of the "O" rings. I agree with the above, it is easiest to install the injectors in the fuel rail, and then install them in the head. Put a light coating of Vaseline on the "O" rings.

This helps them "slide" into the fuel rail, and the head. OK, who is that snickering?

Before you remove the injectors, mark the wire harness connectors with their appropriate number. I know they have tags on them, but I have seen a number of them where the tags have fallen off.

This would be a good time to clean out the crap that accumulates in the "Valley" between the heads. Check the condition of the 14mm hose that runs from the ****** in the center of the valley to the throttle body.

This hose ventilates the crankcase. It is "pre-formed", but it is straight enough to be replaced with a piece of bulk hose. It sounds like your well on your way to solving your problem. rangerj

 

[RI-SHO]

New update guys!

My SHO is all fixed now and running fine since last thursday, except for one CE light blink for like 2sec, i'll be running the codes soon. But i'm pretty sure its my O2 sensors again after I just replaced them in July with Bosch ones. Because even with my granny driving i'm barly getting over 220-240miles, even when I took it to the track and it was running fine last summer I got over 280-300miles w/o a problem and many redline trips.

What else do you think could be affecting my MPG now? Would a old/dieing fuel pump do it? or even the ECT's sensors? BTW thought I should add it stays pretty cold even after driving 15-30min, so i'm guessing it could defitnaly one of the ECT sensors.

One more thing when I installed the timing belt I believe it was installed too tight because a whining noise from the cams at about 1200-2500RPM in 1st and in neutral. Would it be ok to drive like this until the belt is broken in at 10K miles or should I not risk damaging the cam bearings and loosen the belt ASAP?

 

[DougLee25]

Your engine may not be coming up to temperature because the thermostat is faulty. Try replacing it. If that isn't the problem, you could have a faulty sending unit. Replace that as well when doing the thermostat, as it is a low cost item. The bad thermostat would also attribute to the low mileage you're getting though. Let us know what happens.

Doug

 

[RI-SHO]

Where is the sending unit and how much is it, from where? The t-stat was done during the last summer so I doubt it could be that, but i'll do it right this time over and buy the Motorcraft one.

Isnt there a certain model motorcraft t-stat for the MTX SHO, or will I get the right one just by giving my info?

 

[nc89sho]

my car runns on the cold side alot now too, i think most sho's do.

congrats on the fix man, nice to see one of the nicer looking sho's back on the road again. thumbs_u

 

[Yamaha V6]

T-Stat: E9DZ-8575-B
Gauge Sender: F1SZ-10884-A

 

[RI-SHO]

Thanks for the P/N's Fred.

BTW guys I forgot to mention that when I installed my white faced gauges I removed the needle and installed it a little high. So when its full cold instead of being at the blue line, the needles sit right below the NORMAL black line and when warm its around the R-M in the NORMAL, which is still low consdering at full cold its already at the lower part of the black line.