So what did you do to your SHO today!?

Ta2dResqr

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That’s a very good question. I have no way of knowing what sort of car, or lack there of, the previous owner took. I tried looking at the car fax(I know, not the most accurate) and all that shows up is what I’ve done since buying it. Side note: it also says they did a “transfer case flush and fluid change”. They told me ford didn’t recommend changing the PTU fluid because it can be a whole can of worms. I’m gonna go I. There and have them print out the record and the service manager and I are gonna go through it line by line. Even if I’m overreacting about the trans fluid and it’s actually what I should see due to deposits, I know they didn’t do my PTU, so something’s fishy.

I tried to snap a couple this morning before I left for work. I’m no photographer so they’re probably also inconclusive. The one In the garage I’m shining my flashlight on and it looks kind of like watered down chocolate milk. I took it outside and couldn’t get good light, but it looked more like really dark red wine. (More reddish than brownish I guess.)

I’m wondering if maybe my flashlight (LED) was altering the appearance of the color. I also considered I may be thinking incorrectly about what a “trans flush” means. I don’t know if that means they’re able to get what’s in the TC or not. Maybe they just drain and run something through fill/drain area, and can’t really get to all of it without taking the trans out. So maybe it is just deposits and such from lack of previous maintenance.

I’m just gonna drain and fill every week for another 5 weeks. After that, every 3k miles with the oil change.
Technically, a flush should be a full fluid exchange. A machine with a bladder is hooked in line. The car is started and put in gear. The transmission pump pushes the fluid through. The dirty fluid pushes on the bladder displacing the new fluid. All the old fluid (and some new) ends up in the bladder and the complete transmission system is filled with new fluid.

That being said, they could have done a drain and fill, or fluid change, or whatever other name they call it.
 

Zpak

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It was a bad day for the SHO. This happened...
4FC6DAED 96EB 4A16 A2F4 542AA1F79ABF
But, not before this...
FBD3C589 A8D9 4F79 B59D E3F86422E5AA
So, to add insult to injury the 100K milestone was turned over on a donut on the way to Tire Rack to buy a fresh Conti DWS 06 only to watch it get shaved down to 7/32”.
 

FiveLeeter918

Ortiz Performance Sales
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It was a bad day for the SHO. This happened...
View attachment 84368
But, not before this...
View attachment 84369
So, to add insult to injury the 100K milestone was turned over on a donut on the way to Tire Rack to buy a fresh Conti DWS 06 only to watch it get shaved down to 7/32”.

Damn those 100k mile tires... always go out right at the expiration...
 

RickyRecon

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Currently installing new colder plugs and a K&N drop in. First official mods besides tint and chrome delete/debadge :O
I don’t know your level of expertise, so at the risk of sending some “no shit, Sherlock” advice your way…make sure you use dialectric grease on the top of the plugs where the boot goes. The clown that had my SHO before me didn’t. Had to pry up the 3 coils in the back, which ruined them. Boots were stuck to the plugs and had to go fishing with long needle nose and pull the boots out piece by piece. Also, it was a little over $400 for 3 OEM coils lol
 
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cmart

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Got the car ('15 SHO) 2 months ago. So far, upgraded the trans mounts, added the Gearhead Livewire TS+ Power Pack package (plugs, MAP, t-stat, tune), got a catch can to be installed yet and a noisemaker delete pipe on the way. So far very happy with everything, not sure what I'll do next if anything.
 

Jarebear_Laflare

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Either I forgot to plug a hose back in….or the simple K&N drop in gives me a little turbo STUTUTU lol
 

M.J

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Finally got some time to wrench on my car after what seems like forever w/ parts sitting for months.
Started w/ removing front turbo in preparation for GH turbos.
T1
T2
Now onto removing the exhaust manifold (2010 MY)
T3
Decided to port match the new 2013+ manifolds.
T4T5
T6
T7
Still need to do a final sweep on the ports but you get the idea.
T9
The main reason for me going down the rabbit hole... Blown rear turbo causing excessive smoke. Not bad though, 125k hard miles on them. Going to tackle this one tomorrow. Oh and as a bonus you can see the EPP inlet pipe and how tight the tolerances are. This is w/ the CV axle removed.
T10
 

RickyRecon

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Update: Did another drain and fill today, fluid looked much better than my previous post a week or two ago.

I took the fluid from that last post into the dealership I use and asked the service manager what the deal was. Luckily the mechanic that did the service originally was there, and it turns out that they did in fact just do a “drain and fill”. I’m suspicious if they even did that. The fluid smelled burnt and had pretty much no viscosity. They also checked the rdu fluid, which they showed me, and had in fact been replaced. They again said they don’t service the PTU fluid on mine (non Pp) unless it’s been contaminated. (Service history showed a “transfer case flush”) but mine looked good for 60kmiles.

So since I was charged for the trans flush and just a drain and fill was done, and for the discrepancy on the other services…plus I use them for everything I don’t do myself, I now have free “the works” oil changes for the life of the car, and they gave me another 3 year road hazard warranty for the tires for free.

I’m still going to change my oil every 3k like usual, but will definitely take it to them at 5k, with my own fluids of course, so I have records for that warranty.

I’m either going to buy a brake bleeder and change the PTU fluid through the fill hole, or I might take it to BSG in IL. He’s the ford mechanic that opened his own shop, and makes all those YouTube videos. It’ll cost a little less if I let him do it, vs buying the equipment I need to do it. On the other hand, I’m thinking I should just get the stuff as it will be cheaper, but not easier, for future changes. I’m waiting on a reply from him to see if he will be willing to use the amsoil, as his front desk person said he usually only likes to use motocraft fluids…something about their insurance. If he won’t, then that’ll be my next project.

Also emailed Brad yesterday, and he got back to me in less than 10 minutes, so that was pretty cool. I’m happy with my GH tune, but looking forward to seeing what AJP can get me. We’re gonna start with a 93 tune, get that dialed in, then work on an e30.
 
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M.J

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Removed rear turbo. Honestly was dreading this but it was a lot easier than I thought. Literally all I removed was the CV axle and it practically fell down. Didn't have to move the engine or drop the subframe a little from what I have read. Hardest part was probably removing my EPP setup or the heat shielding on the manifold.
TT2TT1
Once the rear turbo and manifold was out I decided to start working on the front & install the 2013+ manifold w/ new hardware. Figured I slap some hi-temp paint on it.
TT3
Then finally slapped on the GH turbo.
TT4
 

M.J

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Installed rear manifold
S1
Installed GH turbo.
S2
Mandatory Anthony mounts, comical when you put it next to the OEM ones.
S3
Installed downpipes.
S4
Installed exhaust. You can see the mid section (resonator) has v-bands so I can switch out for a straight pipe or another resonator without hacking up the whole exhaust.
S5
Buttoned up remaining of the top half.
S6Was able to start it and check for leaks, so far so good. I'll try to get some videos tomorrow.
 

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