three50one
SHO Member
I could possibly take care of the headlights. Just let me know if you get it and the such.
Silver Gen 3 - Decision pending
- Thread starter JohnKay
- Start date
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Rubix
SHO Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,329
- Reaction score
- 858
#4 - just pull a new lid from a junkyard, will cost a few bucks and the lids are abundant - any taurus with console shifting gen 3 with grey interior, I too had to replace mine.
#5 - I think this is common and I think it's simply plastic vs. metal, not sun fade.
#5 - I think this is common and I think it's simply plastic vs. metal, not sun fade.
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
John, I just got your voice mail. I have most of the parts in the right color to fix what ever you need.
JohnKay
New Member
Guys,
Fantastic answers to all my questions. Went through the 30+ oassis pages and the car is mechanically very sound...does need an alignment and yokos. The inner and outers were done recently, ditto for the ac condensor and charge, front brakes calipers and pads,ground rotors, steering pump, sway bar rear etc etc. The other fit/finish issues really great suggestions that I will surely try if I can get past one last issue...no it's not $...although that is always an issue : ) No the principle issue is where to get the cams welded. Went to the SHOV8 site and "people who will weld your cams" and the only site listed in Pa (MD and NY - no luck there either - appear to be out of business) was Sunbury Motors- Fd Dealer - spoke with them this am ....comment was haven't done one for over two years and the former service mgrs gone. If we can get gaskets we could do it for...get this just over $1500.00. Well if I'm gonna spend that kind of money it seems to me that I may just as well roll the dice and drive without welding them. I placed a call to NESHO yesterday and again today hopefully they will have time to respond soon. Anyone recommend a cam welder within a couple of hours or so of Reading, Pa ..would be might obliged
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Fantastic answers to all my questions. Went through the 30+ oassis pages and the car is mechanically very sound...does need an alignment and yokos. The inner and outers were done recently, ditto for the ac condensor and charge, front brakes calipers and pads,ground rotors, steering pump, sway bar rear etc etc. The other fit/finish issues really great suggestions that I will surely try if I can get past one last issue...no it's not $...although that is always an issue : ) No the principle issue is where to get the cams welded. Went to the SHOV8 site and "people who will weld your cams" and the only site listed in Pa (MD and NY - no luck there either - appear to be out of business) was Sunbury Motors- Fd Dealer - spoke with them this am ....comment was haven't done one for over two years and the former service mgrs gone. If we can get gaskets we could do it for...get this just over $1500.00. Well if I'm gonna spend that kind of money it seems to me that I may just as well roll the dice and drive without welding them. I placed a call to NESHO yesterday and again today hopefully they will have time to respond soon. Anyone recommend a cam welder within a couple of hours or so of Reading, Pa ..would be might obliged
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JohnKay
New Member
Kirk - Thanks for your response....can you give me a call at your convenience to discuss cam weld / 100K tune-up. Many thanks
John 610-927-3310
Rubix
SHO Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,329
- Reaction score
- 858
The man who posted 10 minutes before you just did is Mr. NESHO himself, shoot him a PM (shodwn). He is someone who can weld your cams, not sure if he's the closest. I'm not sure if Brian (Mr. PA SHO Shop) welds cams or not as I know he's a green plus kind of dude, but he's in PA and is a reputable SHOman as well.
Edit: nevermind you know
Edit: nevermind you know
JohnKay
New Member
Rubix - .....I reformatted my message three times to get it right and NESHO slipped in before me only saw his post after I hit the send button. Since then Kirk and I were able to connect and i'll see about closing the deal on the SHO tomorrow...Kirk would prefer to pick it up and I likewise would feel a whole lot better knowing I don't have to chance the last turn of the crank syndrome aka the spin of death before the cams get welded. :woo-hoo:
John:
John:
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89SHOMAN666
SHO NUT!
Gl and enjoy the car... Nice to see another forum member close by! Your sickness is not as well developed as mine yet though! :laugh_ti:
three50one
SHO Member
**** I've only got one and that's enough for me. My true passion is turbo 4 cylinders, but I needed a nice cruiser.
JohnKay
New Member
Baby's home
89SHOMAN666 - Thanks for the well wishes....
You SHO-ROC ! (Right Outa Control)
Same with me re 2 wheels. This one will be my daily driver once the cams are done and the tranny's flushed and refilled with Mobil 1 SYN ATF. Negotiated the deal and am pleased with both the condition of the car and even managed to get her inspected and stickered for PA safety/emissions check good through 03/11. Spoke with NESHO after I got her and He's gtg...likely next week. Until the cams are done...it will remain safe and sound in the garage - will not turn a wheel. In the meantime detailed it with a nice carnuba paste for the exterior and leather conditioner for the interior. I tried to figure out how to attach some pics but the forum doesn't seem to have that capability. If anyone knows how to do so please let me know.
John
John
89SHOMAN666 - Thanks for the well wishes....
You SHO-ROC ! (Right Outa Control)
Same with me re 2 wheels. This one will be my daily driver once the cams are done and the tranny's flushed and refilled with Mobil 1 SYN ATF. Negotiated the deal and am pleased with both the condition of the car and even managed to get her inspected and stickered for PA safety/emissions check good through 03/11. Spoke with NESHO after I got her and He's gtg...likely next week. Until the cams are done...it will remain safe and sound in the garage - will not turn a wheel. In the meantime detailed it with a nice carnuba paste for the exterior and leather conditioner for the interior. I tried to figure out how to attach some pics but the forum doesn't seem to have that capability. If anyone knows how to do so please let me know.
John
John
three50one
SHO Member
Upload them onto photobucket and copy and paste the image link it gives you.
JohnKay
New Member
three50one.....ok loaded three pics to Photobucket....not sure where to paste the image link...also do I need to specify the file type.size ie jpg or ?
Many thanks,
John
Many thanks,
John
three50one
SHO Member
If you uploaded them to photobucket you can hover your mouse pointer over the image and it will display a drop down menu with 4 URLs. The last one is what you want.
It will look like this sans any spaces.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/three50one/Merkur/100_2304.jpg[/ IMG]
which just copied and paste will turn into
[ATTACH=full]45187[/ATTACH]
It will look like this sans any spaces.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/three50one/Merkur/100_2304.jpg[/ IMG]
which just copied and paste will turn into
[ATTACH=full]45187[/ATTACH]
JohnKay
New Member
I'm reluctant to ask cause I know the answer will be so darn obvious to all but me at this time but Where do you copy and paste to? I've tried several different ways and no luck. In the meantime I've gone over the car and it is evident that it has had a "decent" complete paint job. I say decent because the paint is perfect but the clear coat is not to factory smoothness standards. Wonder how I can get it "buffed" to perfection. Any ideas?? Also since I can't locate the door entry code anywhere I'm curious where else it might be located in or on the car....if anyone knows I would sure appreciate your help. I will check through all the posts on this last question and remove the query of I find a solution already identified.
Many thanks,
John
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu35/Virago9577/100_6205.jpg
Many thanks,
John
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu35/Virago9577/100_6205.jpg
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Daedalus
Gen3 noob
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the clearcoat not being smooth. When I got my car, the (factory) clearcoat was very rough and not terribly glossy, but a washing and a thorough session with a clay bar fixed it up nicely - I just had a ton of junk stuck to the clearcoat over the years.
For the picture thing, the easiest way is to copy all the text from Photobucket's "IMG Code" box on the left side of your photo, and paste it straight into a forum post. The text in this box should already have the appropriate IMG tags on it already.
For the picture thing, the easiest way is to copy all the text from Photobucket's "IMG Code" box on the left side of your photo, and paste it straight into a forum post. The text in this box should already have the appropriate IMG tags on it already.
JohnKay
New Member
When I run the palm of my hand along a section of clearcoat say the trunk or hood it just feels rough...not silky smooth. I was on Maguire's web site earlier today and they suggest a claybar to remove the hard grit that's built up on clear coated surfaces so I may just try it and see what happens. I'll try moving the pics both ways. OK - got it thanks!!
John
John
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NebraskaSHO
Harumph!
Nice SF 99. Tint your windows now 
JohnKay
New Member
Daedlus,
Just curious....what type of tranny oil cooler did you install and would you go the same way again. If so where would you recommend getting it etc. I'm planning to drop the fluid and go w/ mobil 1 also but may as well put a cooler on at the same time. Also to all - Picked up Turtlewax claybar kit - half the price ($8.50) of the Mothers or Maguires and more clay as well as a special wetting agent and cleaner. worked really well - pulled all the brown I think tree say or tar residue - not sure which. Paint is now glossy and smooth like new....so on goes a new coat of wax again.
Many thanks,
John
Just curious....what type of tranny oil cooler did you install and would you go the same way again. If so where would you recommend getting it etc. I'm planning to drop the fluid and go w/ mobil 1 also but may as well put a cooler on at the same time. Also to all - Picked up Turtlewax claybar kit - half the price ($8.50) of the Mothers or Maguires and more clay as well as a special wetting agent and cleaner. worked really well - pulled all the brown I think tree say or tar residue - not sure which. Paint is now glossy and smooth like new....so on goes a new coat of wax again.
Many thanks,
John
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JohnKay
New Member
NebraskaSHO - Re the tint great idea! - what do you recommend? Last time i had a tint applied was to an 86 Dk Blue Merc Sable GS in 86. Know the tint's are much better now. All in good time I suppose - Just got my 1st paycheck since changing jobs last spring and guess where it went. Wife will be less than impressed if the second and third go the same way!
John
John
Daedalus
Gen3 noob
I've heard a lot of people like the B&M coolers, but I've found that just about any aux cooler with the "stacked plate" design will cool really well. I got the biggest stacked plate cooler that my local AutoZone had in stock, which was reasonably good sized. If you really want to save some money you can use the stock transmission cooler off of a Ford Explorer. The best "how-to" page for installation that I've seen is:
http://www.niesens.com/hobbies/cars/1996-ford-taurus/transmission-cooler/
I didn't do this - I used .050" stainless safety wire to tie the top of the cooler to the center grill support (the metal piece behind the "Ford" logo in front), and plastic tie-wraps to hold the bottom in place above the stock coolers. Maybe not ideal, but it works, and I didn't have to remove the bumper cover to install it.
http://www.niesens.com/hobbies/cars/1996-ford-taurus/transmission-cooler/
I didn't do this - I used .050" stainless safety wire to tie the top of the cooler to the center grill support (the metal piece behind the "Ford" logo in front), and plastic tie-wraps to hold the bottom in place above the stock coolers. Maybe not ideal, but it works, and I didn't have to remove the bumper cover to install it.
