Sho stalls and won't start when hot

psix

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on my motor I didn’t notice the egr at all, neither the sensor nor the valve, they just aren’t there
 

Blackdr16

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Read the article, not seeing how this is related to what you are experiencing. (Doesn't k I l l anything to the engine, only turns off cruise control)

EGR isn't present on MTXs.

Code 214 is *almost always* the cam position sensor. For how cheap the sensor is, I'd replace it as that is directly responsible for sending cylinder ID to computer.

Definitely address your other codes, but I don't think they are the direct source of your issues, some maybe related but 214 is likely your root issue. 542 and 528 are just from it stalling and codes pulled with climate control / AC on.
 

luigisho

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why is an injector unplugged? I don't see any egr codes. I see lean O2 sensor codes. I agree with above and go with the cam position sensor.

I don't understand why you did everything you did already. Fuel pump code 542 can pop up anytime the car stalls for any reason-- sensor or electrical issues are most common reasons for that to happen.
The shophoenixproject website I linked in the previous page has a how to write up with pics for cam sensor replacement so check that out.

Be a pro with codes, get a used engine manual (Helm's/Ford Shop manual) that you can find used cheap on ebay. This is the seperate 1989 shop manual for SHO specific engine and transmission. This is about all you need for a manual transmission car from 89-95. There are other one's on ebay but you need to verify they have all the info you need

 

psix

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Read the article, not seeing how this is related to what you are experiencing. (Doesn't k I l l anything to the engine, only turns off cruise control)

EGR isn't present on MTXs.

Code 214 is *almost always* the cam position sensor. For how cheap the sensor is, I'd replace it as that is directly responsible for sending cylinder ID to computer.

Definitely address your other codes, but I don't think they are the direct source of your issues, some maybe related but 214 is likely your root issue. 542 and 528 are just from it stalling and codes pulled with climate control / AC on.
One cylinder does not work well for me, because of this I disconnected the nozzle from it, because of this, maybe 214?It happened after another detonation, the motor began to constantly troit, one cylinder stopped working, I looked at the candles and the coil.
 

psix

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why is an injector unplugged? I don't see any egr codes. I see lean O2 sensor codes. I agree with above and go with the cam position sensor.

I don't understand why you did everything you did already. Fuel pump code 542 can pop up anytime the car stalls for any reason-- sensor or electrical issues are most common reasons for that to happen.
The shophoenixproject website I linked in the previous page has a how to write up with pics for cam sensor replacement so check that out.

Be a pro with codes, get a used engine manual (Helm's/Ford Shop manual) that you can find used cheap on ebay. This is the seperate 1989 shop manual for SHO specific engine and transmission. This is about all you need for a manual transmission car from 89-95. There are other one's on ebay but you need to verify they have all the info you need

I understood thanks, I removed the camshaft sensor, cleaned the chip, didn’t change it, I hardly believe in it
 

Blackdr16

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Cleaning an internally defective component won't help - you'll want to replace it. Help me to understand the reason why you would disconnect an injector and then try to run the engine? An injector not firing won't cause a 214 code, simply will create a dead cylinder.
 

psix

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Cleaning an internally defective component won't help - you'll want to replace it. Help me to understand the reason why you would disconnect an injector and then try to run the engine? An injector not firing won't cause a 214 code, simply will create a dead cylinder.
I measured the compression in it, it’s weak, turned it off so that the fuel doesn’t pour there, because it still doesn’t work, you need to try to make the motor decalcify. Ok thanks, then I’ll try to change the sensor.
 

luigisho

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Yeah I posted that like a week or two ago. I am older so I prefer the physical book right where I am working. For the price you can't go wrong.

Are you saying you have a dead cylinder or preignition? No compression? I do not understand. I can not imagine it will run well with 1 cylinder off. Does this need a teardown?
 

psix

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Yeah I posted that like a week or two ago. I am older so I prefer the physical book right where I am working. For the price you can't go wrong.

Are you saying you have a dead cylinder or preignition? No compression? I do not understand. I can not imagine it will run well with 1 cylinder off. Does this need a teardown?
it should work and not stall when hot, a non-working cylinder will just give the motor a little uneven operation. It all started when all cylinders were working properly.
 

luigisho

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it should work and not stall when hot, a non-working cylinder will just give the motor a little uneven operation. It all started when all cylinders were working properly.
I sort of understand what you are saying. I assume alot of the sensors will pop off trying to keep the air fuel ratio in range. I don't know how much stock programming can keep up with this. Huh. Curious to see how it works out.
 

psix

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I sort of understand what you are saying. I assume alot of the sensors will pop off trying to keep the air fuel ratio in range. I don't know how much stock programming can keep up with this. Huh. Curious to see how it works out.
that's not the point, what's the point of getting into the engine if the initial problem has not been eliminated? Yes, and I want to decoke the engine, but how can you do it if it can stall and not start later?I will go one of these days further to dance near it.
 

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