try Autozone.com
A lot of guys swear by raxles.com - They're more but they're NEW not re-built.
You'll also need a new hub (spindle) nut, and pinch bolt/nut. You're not supposed to re-use them.
Also, when you replace one you should do the other about the same time, or they can go out down the road.
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As for the work-
You'll need a deep 30mm socket and a cheater bar on it. A good socket set, some wd-40 (or whatever works better for you, PB Blaster?), a big (at least 2-3 feet long) prybar, a jackstand, and some rags.
Oh- I never work on my car without needing a BFH- Big Flippin' Hammer.
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You support the car by the frame, take the wheel off. Remove the axle nut and pinchbolt. Then you pry the lower control arm out of the steering knuckle. You'll have to "persuade" it a little.(The knuckle is that thingy that the axle goes through and that the brakes and steering and strut are attached to.)
You now pull the knuckle off the axle. Persuasion is usually called for here, too.
Carefully (so you don't damage the seals in the tranny) pull the axle out.
Installation is the opposite, be sure to check the tranny fluid afterwards (some will leak out when you pull the axle). Take care to not damage any of the splines on the hub or axle.
The hub nut gets torqued to 180-200 ft. lbs of torque. You can rent a torque wrench from Autozone for a deposit. Be sure to do check this or you'll be doing wheel bearings next, and those are a lot more work. madflame
I'd HIGHLY recommend getting a good manual to do a lot of this type of work. It helps, and doesn't cost that much.
The money you save doing it yourself is enough to buy the manual, some new tools, maybe a cover-all, and plenty of RootBeer.
